There are some youtub and good listed instructions on rebuilding carbs. Generic and specific, which I have found, close enough for most small 2-cycle carbs. The most challenging part I found was trying to replace the small fuel screen in the carb. This taught me to clean the screen w/o removing it with less psi from compressed carb cleaner or compressed air. I also find the fine screen being restricted and hard or cracked diaphragms as being common problems in the small carbs. Below are 2& 4-cycle youtube and text examples different, which works similar enough. Digital Pics before pulling your fuel lined and in disassembly stages could save you from pulling your hair. LOL & Good Luck! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGq1wuBNM00 http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/4582/How_to_Clean_a_2_Cycle_Engine_Carburetor.html

Mdcitrus, Thank you for the posting and I understand your confusion at all the options! I think you are not alone in your quest for an efficient and inexpensive solution. The problem as I see it is that delivering enough light (in other words, enough light to make them reasonably happy) to more than two or three moderate-sized citrus trees is going at some point to become inefficient with standard fluorescent fixtures. My best guess is that four or six 40 Watt by 4 feet bulbs would provide enough light to quite nicely maintain two or three smaller trees (a growing area of about 3 by 4 feet). But if you are looking to go beyond that point, I think it starts to become harder to avoid the HID lights. The two light sources' respective efficiencies really are that different. Of course, once you start down the artificial lighting road, then you need to employ all the ways you can to increase the efficiency of your set-up. Back in the 1970s when I kept my houseplants under regular fluorescent fixtures, I learned to use white walls and white surfaces to reflect light back onto the plants. This light would otherwise be wasted. Ideally, you could create a small room that was set up to maximize your available light. I too would love to see what people are doing--I had to overwinter one of my citrus trees, a rather large Calamondin, in the attached garage because there was not enough room for it in the living quarters. The other reason I posted this thread in the first place is because I have seen questions about the topic in the forum, and when I looked at the general postings on the subject of indoor lighting it struck me that citrus trees are not the same as small vegetable or flower seedlings or African violets, or similar plants that can do quite well under more modest lighting options. I will check this thread to see if any one replies, but perhaps it is a bit too specialized a topic to generate a lot of feedback in this forum. I hope your trees get green quickly! Don

Michael has SUCH an important point... If the crew/supervisor ever say... "I don't wanna use XX brand of paint...", or "I just get all my colors matched into XX...", or "We normally use flat here...", ...this should raise RED flags! Explain or WRITE IT INTO THE CONTRACT your choices of Paint-brand/quality-level, sheen, primers, location of "color-x", etc., etc. IF YOU'RE CHOOSING THE PAINT-LINES... >>> Make DA*N sure that those actual cans are being used!! Reason I say this: * Couple years ago...I was helping a painter find color-chips for Ralph-Lauren paints going into a large MN lake-home. He had a sheet of paper with all the RL color titles/sheens to be used (homeowner's list). * Some were burgundies going on big walls, etc. He was asking me about how to use the reds, i.e..."Do I need a different primer..."? * I thought we were gonna be busy mixing a lot of paint that day! HOWEVER...My paint mgr. saw the guy leaving and asked me how much time I spent with him. "About 10 min." I say... * "I wouldn't have spent 10 seconds with him!" he said. "He just comes and gets a clients chips and has them matched into a low-level paint at SW or BM that they get a big discount on". * Guess what...you can bet he's billing at the $35/gal. RL-rate, and maybe paying $20/gal for the contractor-grade at the other place. * Hmmmm....customer's spec-sheet said RL-paints. Did they get actual RL paint??? NO. Then, if something doesn't perform right (color slightly off, wrong tint, sheen-difference...), the PAINT gets the blame!!! Sorry about my "novella" here, but I'm just tryin' to alert people of what CAN happen sometimes... KEEP your eye on the ball!! Faron

Fascinating! Could you address slab thickness? We mostly are seeing 2 cm, but at one place that both sells and fabricates slabs, they carry 5 cm and say thats better for the edge. Prices seem to be about the same.