You would not necessarily be required to eliminate the pop out configuration. You could use 1/4 inch copper tubing cut in 3/8 inch lengths (need 4) and put regular crimp type eyelet wire terminals on the ends of the replacement diode wire pigtails. Then you use a machine thread screw and nut to secure the eyelet terminal to the short length of copper tube by running a screw through the tube lengthwise. Then secure the eyelet connection to the tube with a nut. Might need a flat washer under the nut. Pop the tube into the existing diode clips and you are set to go. Of course you must observe correct polarity.

It's possible that the assumptions here are all wrong. First of all, if it's a fuse that's blowing then the problem is over current and not necessarily over voltage. Noise on the line, if that's a problem, is likely introduced after the 24-volt transformer, as a power transformer by its very nature, being an inductor, will likely not pass transient high frequency noise, it's too slow to react unless it's part of a switching power supply design or an oscillator. The 3-legged packaged regulator (DC) referred to is likely a TO-220 (maybe a TO-92) package. A small value (capacitance) bypass cap may help if in fact there is some sort of RF transients being introduced (after the transformer secondary winding). Even though 24-volt AC feeds this device, it most certainly must convert this AC to DC (probably 12-volt) in order to function. There should be regulation and bypass built into the design. Another possible but expensive solution might be 'Whole House Surge Protection' installed right at the load center (electrical entrance). This should provide protection from voltage spikes originating from both sides of the load center (utility & internal). Besides, now that we have microprocessor controlled HVAC systems with ECM motors, microprocessor controlled 220-volt stoves, ovens, dryers etc., how else can we protect these sensitive devices from spikes? It's not just your large screen A/V system that needs this type of protection in today's world. You can't buy a Monster Power Bar for your HP! Another advantage of Whole House Surge Protection is that it ties all the separate grounds of the electrical utility, telephone lines and cable lines together to one common ground. Have you ever tried measuring the voltage (AC) between these grounds with a Fluke? The comment that is most interesting is from mike_home regarding humidity and static electricity, though I suspect the source of the problem lies elsewhere. Back to this Nest thing, what's directly on this fuse's circuit that's drawing so much current? This could be a design flaw and may not be up to you to solve. SR

It really depends on the owners. Direct wire advantages (owner's perspective) 1. More flexibility and choices. For example, you can put in fluorescent or halogen and swap it out later for LED with minimal hassle. There is no need to think whether the original setup was 12V or 24V DC and whether the wiring would still be usable for higher output lights which may have a different voltage. 2. For large setups, it is potentially cheaper and there is no need to figure out the wire gauge, # transformers (power supplies). 3. Mechanically secured, does not rely on adhesive (typical for tape). 4. Everything is located under the cabinets. No remote power supply in an accessible location. 5. Better understood by electricians. 6. Higher output than tape lighting and potentially rigid low voltage LED bars. Low voltage bar advantages 1. Significantly smaller profile than direct wire. Ultra low profile direct wire lights are very expensive and still not as low profile. For example the Unilume. 2. Mechanically fastened vs adhesive for tape lighting. 3. Higher output than tape lighting. In some cases, it can match the output of some direct wire lights. 4. More rugged than tape lighting. tape lighting advantages 1. Smallest profile of all. 2. Can be water proof (not counting cut ends or connectors). 3. Easily put up, but the adhesive backing may not last. If you can use fixtures with a 0.75" profile, direct wiring is the cheaper option.

it takes a circuitous path that requires about 12' of cable. That's fine. They want a minimum 10' of cable between the transformer and first fixture.