Ggreenwald: YOU are going to have to find the manual for the engine on your mower to determine the amount of oil it requires. Briggs and Tecumseh both provide free information regarding their engines, oil capacity, and filter information. Now, about the dethatcher I use; I have included a link at the end of this post. I used to use the dethatcher blade by itself, but constantly ran into stalling and low power issues because the dethatcher blade is so light in weight. Since the blades on all lawnmowers act as a weighted flywheel, I reasoned that running the dethatcher in conjunction with the regular blade would mitigate the problems I was having. I was right because when running the dethatcher blade with the regular blade, I had plenty of power and stalling problems came to an end. Please remember that excessively high spots or other obstacles WILL STILL stall or stop the blade. YOU will have to experiment to see how low to adjust the mower to do a good dethatching job. I wear out a set of springs each year and they should be disposed of once the tip is too worn out and the shock absorbing flex of the spring is lost. This year I am going to experiment with a 20" blade attached to the bottom of my 21" blade to increase the vacuum effect in hopes of picking up bigger heavier stuff without resorting to lowering the deck height. I don't know the math or physics of the slightly heavier weight acting as a flywheel, but so far, the added weight of the dethatcher blade has not caused anything out of the ordinary to happen and the engine still starts, runs, and stops without any unusual behavior. DO NOT mount the dethatcher blade perpendicular to the cutting blade as the weight of one may cancel the flywheel effect of the other. I put bolts through the dethatcher blades two holes that are out from the mounting hole. When I butt the bolts against the cutting blade, the blades cross each other at an angle. I butt the bolts protruding through the dethatcher blade (Make sure that the blades are flat against each other and not hanging up on the bolt threads or nuts.) up against the cutting blade and then tighten the mounting bolt with the outside diameter of the cupped washer (You had better have a cupped washer, otherwise buy a new one.) pressing against the blade to hold both blades in place. Good luck! Fairyprincess Here is a link that might be useful: This is the dethatcher blade I use and I change the springs every year.

Im working on a 2014 Toro XT6715-2070 149cc engine where its having issues on warm up. After starting it will run well for about 30 to 40 seconds or so then start to stumble for about 10 seconds, then runs OK for about 20 seconds, then goes back an forth doing this for about two and a half minutes then just starts to run well from then on. After its ran for about 6 minutes it still does not fully open the choke butterfly. The carb is a new OEM carb and I pulled the fuel filter to eliminate any possible issues with fuel restriction. The air filter is also new. Iv had this on other identical mowers and have not yet found a solution. The choke is one of these that mount directly the muffler and is the size of about a fifty cent piece that mounts flat on the muffler. It does not appear to be adjustable in any way. if I hold the choke rod open fully I do not experience this issue. Im sure Ill see this again so if anyone has any information for me that would be most helpful.

i am 21, male, unmarried, non-homeowner, riding a 2006 Kawi EX250R. i have 500/1000 deducts and i think $10,000 health, i pay $638 for 6 months. if i get married, turn 25, or own a home this would go down a lot but none of those will be happening soon. stupid sportbikes with "r" designations. Kawi had the right idea- its cheaper to insure a ZX-14 (fastest production street bike ever made, also called the busa' killer) than a ZZR1200, even though the zzr is slower, the ZX-14 is a "touring" bike (ha ha ha ha ha) the ZZR is a race bike. I use State Farm but im thinking about switching.

Matt, I've never ridden the DR400, but my brother has the 650. With standard gearing, it's a great street bike and a white knuckle terror off road. Gear it down, and it buzzes on the freeway. And even then, it's way too easy to kill in tight going - not enough flywheel. That's why the wide ratio six speed is such a big deal to me. Any current dual sport would be more versatile with another gear and a wider spread. To me, that's the most critical need. However, if you want to actually go anywhere, like Alaska or Colorado or Baja, you need to carry some gear and you need some way to perform maintenance, and so far only KTM and BMW take those needs seriously. If I had a fabrication skills I would design a suicide center stand -- a skid plate with a removable pin in front that would rotate on a rear hinge and double as a center stand. I'm sure no manufactuer would touch it for liability reasons, but it could certainly be made to work nicely without the weight and ground clearance concerns of conventional center stands. Just the thing for the car wash after 75 miles of axle deep mud on the Cassiar.