Right before I stumbled across this forum, I replaced the engine on my push rotary mower with a Chinese-built 5.5 HP engine that I bought from Harbor Freight in California. It appears to be the same basic engine that MTD is using. Here is the link to the engine description. You can also download a .pdf owner's manual. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=96156 You can't see it in the description or pictures, but the engine has a blade brake, and the linkage for that hooks up with no modification and no problem. I replaced a 4 or 5-year-old 5.5 HP Briggs to get something that was easier for my wife to start. (Yes, I'm one of those equal-opportunity guys who lets my wife mow the lawn, and who does everything he can to make the job easier for her.) The Briggs would usually start from cold, or even after winter storage, on the first pull, IF you really pulled hard and fast, which she can't do, and when starting it hot, it might take several pulls. Also, in the first couple of seasons, we had to make several repairs (mag, carb, oil burning [we used Briggs-specified 30 wt.]). I decided to try a more modern OHV design, and opted for the cheapest new engine I could find. So far -3 weeks and 3 mowings - so good. The engine has no primer but has a manual choke. I modified the control plate so that the old throttle cable controls the choke and a new cable controls the speed. The engine came set up for governed single speed operation and the carb mixtures are non-adjustable, but by modifying the linkage (There goes my 90-day warranty!), adding the second cable, and backing out the throttle minimum-speed stop on the carb, I now can control the speed and operate the choke from the handle. It still has a fixed maximum speed stop to keep things from blowing up. Even though there are no mixture adjustments, the things idles down just fine once it's warmed up. The engine is very easy on gas, is easy to start, and seems to have a little more power than the old engine. Mounting it was okay. The Briggs only used 3 holes, but I elongated a hole on the deck so I could use four bolts. I apologize to anyone who has problems with buying Chinese, but after 2 Tecumsehs, 3 Briggs, and (years ago) a couple of Clintons, all with pretty decent service, this last Briggs soured me on buying another one, and I didn't have the bucks for a Honda. So I tried Harbor Freight's offering. (I think you're right; it doesn't appear to be a clone of anything, but knowing the history of Chinese one-lungers, they probably did a lot of "borrowing".) We will see how well we like it in a few years. For now, I'm very happy with it.

njdpo, you might as well face reality. There is no magic potion to pour into any oil compartment of any machine that will stop an oil leak caused by missing gaskets or cracked cases (without also clotting beneficial passages as well). If such a product existed, you wouldn't have to search for it............it would be well known to everybody. The only products aimed at reducing/stopping oil leaks in machine assemblies are those that claim to swell seals (and thereby slow or stop the leak). The actual efficacy of any of these products is dubious and largely because of the placebo effect imparted by their purchase and use. Your best bet for affecting an external cure for this leak is to first drain out all the oil in the sump. Lay the bike over at an extreme angle (or just lay it on it's side if you feel like taking the battery out and removing the gas tank first). Clean off all traces of leaked oil and dirt using spray carb cleaner and a scotch brite scuff pad. Clean a path about 1.25" on each side of the crankcase seam. Allow this to dry completely (use a hair dryer if needed). Make certain that no residual oil runs out of the seam (if it does, clean off again like before). Mix up a batch of JB Weld (or similar high strength epoxy). Begin appying the epoxy at the outer edges of the cleaned area and work toward the seam. Coat the entire area you cleaned and scuffed and try to keep the layer thickest over the seam. you can speed up the curing/setting of the epoxy by using a heat lamp or other non-flame source of low heat. You will probably have to keep wiping the epoxy back toward the seam until it begins to set up to the point it does not sag or run. Allow the epoxy at least 24 hours to cure and hope for the best.

The name is because I ride a scooter (Yamaha Vino 125) and am not very clever with names. These trees were part of the "10 free flowering trees" I got with my membership last year. I only got them because they were free, and I won't be too heartbroken if they end up dying completely. Though, I would very much rather they survive and thrive. Of the ten, I only have the two eastern redbuds and a (very cruvy) sargent crabapple left. Two were dead from the start, and the rest were a snack for the local bunnies. Actually, where I planted the trees isn't even my property. There is an unimproved ally next to my house that has been grass for at least 28 years. I've taken care of it for the three years I've lived in my house, and the previous owner took care of it for the 25 years he lived in it, so I could probably legally claim it as part of my property if I wanted to go through all the paperwork and pay taxes on it. But for now, I've talked to the borough, and they legally can't do anything to the space since it was never a developed road, and they said I can landscape it however I want. So rather than look at an empty space of just grass I'm putting in some flowers and trees. But just in case the borough changes its mind, I want to do it as cheaply as possible.

You can use something like this splitter: http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-YL1430520-Generator-Adapter-Connentor/product-reviews/B002MGJ2F4 Note that it still has only two 15/20 amp receptacles for a max of 40 amps at 120V. A 6600 watt gen will provide 55 amps at 120VAC. You will need to balance the load and you can only get 20 amps from each with that splitter. If you want your full power out, you can get it with a splitter for 30 amp receptacles, which is hard to find and inconvenient. Or you can draw a bit more power from one of the other 120V receptacles on the gen, but not more than 27.5 amps total from either winding, so you need to find out how the other windings are connected to the 120V receptacles.