I think it looks very functional. Did you plan on that bit of counter to the left of the frig to be a drop zone? In my house that would be a clutter catcher. The only change I'd consider would be to make that area a full pantry cab, otherwise I like it.

Thanks laxsupermom. The counter to the left is the 'dropzone'. Though, I had the same thought about making it a full pantry cab.

Any one else?

Thanks again!

I think the plan itself looks good as well. You have a separate prep area and clean-up area and the kids have the ability to get into the fridge for drinks etc without crossing paths with the cook. how long is the table?

Cabinet wise - I have a couple of questions - The drawers to the right of the DW, do you have specific plans for them? 12" is very narrow (the inside measurement would be even narrower) to be of much use and it looks quite squished. A couple of options would be either 2-15" banks of drawers or a 30" bank or if you don't have a place for cookie sheets, cutting boards etc yet, make it a 12" pull-out cupboard designed for those things.

I also wonder about the usefulness of the open shelving on either side of the sink. The one on the range wall in the corner squishes up the cupboards on the left side of it. I would stretch out those cupboards to go right into the corner and scrap the open shelving there. I just think it would be more pleasing to the eye and be more useful. Perhaps you are trying to be symmetrical to the left side of the fridge but you don't have to do that. The right side and the left side of the fridge can be treated separately.

I also like the idea of the full-height pantry to the left of the fridge but can also appreciate the need for a drop-zone. At the bottom of the kitchen by the mudroom door - is that a desk and could it double as a drop-zone for keys, mail etc? or is it dedicated office space? If you double up the function of that space then the pantry would be very doable and useful.

check out this blog http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0215003425225.html?24
Your hood will look something like this and have the same issues
Also bookcase down to the counter looks funny bring it up to the hgt of the other cabinets,your hood over stove will be one 42" hi this is to high

I like the table, off the island. It's a great idea and the kids can face each other, rather than the 'stadium seating' Marcolo is always talking about, with the really long islands and everyone lined up. This looks very functional and I think the girls will love it! :)

Only other suggestion...maybe some glass uppers (even frosted) on either side of the range, to lighten that side a bit.

Again, thanks for all the replies.

Blfenten: I was thinking of making the table out of ikea's butcherblock � so if I keep that size, it will be 26x50inches. I think I agree with changing the drawers to 30 inches to the right of the dishwasher. I do already plan for a pull out for cookie trays to the right of the range, but think that a 30inch bank is better use of space than 18/12. I was thinking of the 12 inch for towels/ washcloths, but a single drawer in the 30 bank would also work fine. The open shelving in the corner was going to be for cookbooks. I thought this would be more useful than trying to get into the cabinet space. The desk was going to be a the place for mail, ect. It may be better not to tempt people to drop things on the counter to the left of the fridge � or things may just stay there. I am thinking pantry shelves there are a better use.

Ihelpu � thanks for the link. The hood should be lower � and I think we will build a hood cover and mount a hood inside.

Lavender_lass � I thought about glass on the uppers � but am afraid that in real life I have more things to store than pretty plates to display. :) But, frosted could be an option; I will think about it.

ketc

What refrigerator will you actually be using? Right now you have it shown as a "counter depth", in the plan, and a Sub-Zero "true counter depth" in the elevation.

Ikea counters are 25 5/8" wide. They do have some 39"ish wide ones, but they are only 6 feet long. That may not be enough for you. I can't remember exactly, but scherrs cabinets are a shade under 24", then you add 3/4" for the door and 3/4" for wainscotting, panels or beadboard around the back plus 1.5" for overhang (3/4" on both faces) and you get about 27" deep for the counter on the island.

I dunno, I'm not groovin' on the open shelves or the desk area. I don't know what that black box is, but I think it might be difficult to reach around it. Reaching around the sides would be hard enough.

The desk looks like one of the small ikea ones meant to hold a laptop or the one with only two drawers and about 15" deep. I wonder what you'd use for storage/where your kids will do homework or use a computer? If you have cookbooks, where would they be kept?

The table might be better off wider than shown. The people sitting on the inside, next to the counter, will need more space because their elbows will be right up against the back wall of the cabinets. The width helps make up for scrunching a bit towards the open end.

palimpsest: we are using a regular depth FD fridge � we are debating making it counter depth by making a recess in the drywall so we can push it back. I thought once I get the layout decided on, I can use a different program to make the kitchen look correct with SS appliances/ my choice of cabinet/drawer door style.

Bmorepanic: I am actually using soapstone for my island counter � the butcherblock consideration is for the tabletop. I was planning on 30 inch deep countertop on the island. The open shelves at the end of the cabinet run were going to be a cookbook bookshelf. The desk in the kitchen will be custom made � and the computer for odds/ ends things � looking up recipes. It will not be the main computer for the kids. The black box is a microwave mounted under the cabinet � havent decided if that will stay there � thou I dont know if there is a better place. I have thought about the table top and tried to mock up the size on our table. Since we will probably make the table, I might wait until the island is in and then how things look/ fit.

ketc

If you are using a conventional depth fridge you will *have to recess it, or this will be a relative constriction point in the kitchen.

Sorry for misreading your original.

Just to repeat what pal said in a different way, a counter depth ref is often 30" deep by the time the doors and handles are added. A normal depth ref is 36" deep. Your aisle can become only 2'9" right in front of the ref.

Also, in case you might not know, a sxs or a french door ref pretty much needs landing space that is behind you as you stand in front of it (pivot and set down). Landing space to either side isn't so good because most people can't reach the counter without walking around the open door.

I think you thinkin' looks with those shelves and I'm thinkin' they won't actually work. Try this out at home with cardboard boxes holding books - it's not so easy to find the one you want when the spines face the other direction. For me, I'd be forced to reach blind and wronghanded for the ones stored on the right side. I wouldn't be able to reach most of the ones in the other corner at all without a step stool because the micro would get in the way.

Pretty much, you can't put a hood that high over a range. Most of them max out at 30-36" above the surface of the burners (or whatever).

So - these are two different little sketches on one drawing - conceptual, not measured. The first is a blue sky thought that would take resiting the mudroom and what I hope is an extra powder room. Cause I would be looking to do something more like the sketch in terms of kitchen space and placement.

The second is an alternate of just the window area - much like rhome's cleanup area - to eliminate some of the access issues and possibly better positioning of the micro.

Interesting - I hadn't really thought about using the landing spaces differently with a FD fridge as compared to regular door. Thanks for pointing that out.

I am thinking my cookbook shelf isnt the greatest use of that space - bummer. It seemed like a good use of that corner space.

The range hood will be a normal height - that is just not correct on the drawing.

I will have to think more about your sketches, bmorepanic. I am not sure if I can give up my mudroom. It is almost as important as my kitchen :)

Thanks,
ketc

I wouldn't be talking about giving it up as much as moving it elsewhere and downscaling a little. It and the bath take a fair bit of space (8ish x 22ish) - it just seems big to me for mostly a long hallway plus a closet. I'm hoping the house design people would help on that.

Everyone thinks what they draw up is good, and mostly it is. But then you hear a bunch of other opinions mixed with occasional facts you wished you knew before doing the initial design and it can be disheartening in oh-so-many ways.

It might help to remember that none of it is meant that way -> we all want you to have the best kitchen possible. We all have different backgrounds, concerns and opinions - ok well, plus some egos running a little fast and loose here and there.

I look at it as providing layout ideas and/or fact critiques -sometimes mixed with a bit of humor. But its up to you to choose if you want any of it.

Taking all of the responses with alcohol might be best.

I do appreciate all the suggestions. It is funny how you do get attached to a concept or drawing. But, I would much rather have 'oops' pointed out to me on the drawing rather than living with it daily.

More thinking to do.

But, anyone with thoughts on a recessed instead of bumped out apron sink - too much of a hassle or sure, why not?

ketc

I wouldn't know. I think it might do a couple of things - take away room for a faucet - but perhaps you could have a wall faucet. The corners cutting back might make it easier to break dishes or have water end up on the sides of the adjacent cabinets. Sink units with integral drain boards all used to be 22" deep and I'm not sure why the standards changed to 24" unless it was a side effect of plywood.

Roccocogurl has a lot of pictures of farm sinks installed in various ways over at atticmag.com. She might know - she reads here sometimes. This may also be a job for a Houzz search.

Could you choose an apron sink that has an integral backsplash for the faucet?

I have looked at houzz for a few pics - but I will ck out atticmag - thanks.

I thought about an sink with the integral backsplash - but would really prefer an undermounted sink.

Thanks for the thoughts.

ketc