Now what? Crown moldings are 1/4' to 1/2' from ceiling.
Comments (19)
pharaoh
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Intelliflow 4x160 , 1 speed 2hp, or 2 speed 2hp
Comments (5)Kell490- Yes. Larger 2 speed pumps have different HP ratings for low speed. There are 3 different 2 speed pumps I know of in the industry (1 HP, 1.5 HP and 2 HP) and their HP ratings at the low speed are 1/5 HP, ¼ HP and 1/3 HP respectively. I have had good luck with the 2HP 2 speed and the 1/3 HP at low speed is enough for my floor system and heater. I donÂt have solar, but others on this forum have used 2 speeds for solar applications. One member on this forum, I think "scal" was using a 1.5HP 2 speed for a solar application without problems. It is recommended to run at high speed for a couple minutes first to prime the panels then switch to low speed. Also if there are any bypass lines that are open that rob flow from the pump at low speed, these should be closed. This is good practice anyway to avoid any additional work that the pump has to do and save energy. Regarding Intelliflo efficiency or any variable speed efficiency, there is nothing better in the market for low speed, light duty filtering and turning the pool. However, at these light duty conditions, the power consumed is small. So the slight advanatage that variable speed has at low speed translates to small power savings. At high speed, due to the inefficient impeller and drive losses, the variable speed will use more power and if ran for more than a couple hours per day, will erase any power that was saved while running in low speed that day. Depending on your utility rate and how many hours the pump is planned to run at low and high speeds, you can start to determine if the return on investment is worth it for your particular situation. Regarding the replacement drive cost for variable speed pumps, unfortunately I donÂt know. I and others on this forum have been asking but no one has volunteered the replacement drive costs yet because the drives are being replaced under warranty right now. IÂm sure someone out there knows but no one has come forth yet. From my experience, a drive this size will probably cost as much as a new 2 speed pump. Finally, a quality surge protector/power conditioner would be needed to protect the drive. I have seen UPS units used successfully in industrial applications to protect drives this size. These units range in cost from $400-800. Not sure what you had in mind for surge protection, but thought this was worth mentioning. Hope this helps!...See MoreVote Now on Color Plan 1, 2, or 3!
Comments (20)Wow, here I am almost 8 months later and there is very little progress toward our bathroom! No word at all from Jim, the contractor. I wonder if he is still doing the commercial job or if he even wants our work. Plus, Toby, our dog, is even older now - 16 - and on prednisone, so he is peeing a lot. He has doggy dementia, too. He is not terribly confused, not enough to put him down, but there is no way I want new, clean grout on that floor. The bathroom is on hold until he decides to take a trip over the rainbow bridge. I have just contracted to replace the last four windows in the house. The aluminum sliders will be gone in 6 weeks or less! We are getting an awning window for the bathroom with a blind in the glass that can be raised and lowered. It is our sunniest room, and light from that window lights up the whole end of the hallway. I wanted the option to raise the blinds up. The three bedrooms are getting double casement windows with blinds in the glass. Hey - I don't clean, so the blinds are a major, major plus for us! Now I have to get windowsills for all three bedrooms. And for the bathroom, the need for a windowsill is forcing me to decide on the counter top for the vanity. It seems to me that they should be the same material. Tomorrow I am going to try to find the Cambria Quartz source for the area. I want the place where I can get a leftover piece of someone else's slab, since I need such a small piece. My vanity is only 18" x 46". I am hoping for the color called Parys. [houzz=https://www.houzz.com/photos/cambria-countertop-2010-traditional-kitchen-phvw-vp~2704735] Since I still have not chosen the color for the wall tiles in the bathroom, the color for the vanity top is going to determine what direction we go, since it is the next critical decision that I have to make. I like Parys because it is dark and will contrast with the white sink. It will also contrast with all the different wall tiles I have considered. I especially love the glowing blue bits in it. It reminds me of my favorite stone I use when making jewelry, Labradorite! It has that chatoyancy, that glow when it catches the light just right. Opal also does that. Parys just glows in any light. Other things I have made progress on have to do with the vanity. I have sanded it and have decided to replace the original drawer pulls. No way will we enjoy finding the little bail that recedes into a groove on those babies. I am going to fill the holes and then drill one center hole and use a glass knob with chrome in the center. I had already purchased three of them to use on the new cupboards that I was adding into the wall across from the vanity. I have also removed the metal floor protectors on the bottom of the 8 vanity legs and discovered that the small feet that can be leveled that I purchased will fit into the ends of the legs. Holes have to be drilled for them. Because the floor will be made waterproof, and sloped toward a drain, if I did not put levelers into the feet of the vanity, the whole thing would be unlevel and the sink would not drain properly. A and C below make up my leg levelers. Yes, I do try to think of everything. When you have THREE YEARS to do nothing but plan, you do a lot of planning! I have also purchased the shower plumbing - the rainhead, the shower temperature balancing valve, and three volume controls, one for the rain head, one for the shower head, and one for the hand-held, and the controls will each have those labels on them! I already had the shower head. I still have to decide on the hand-held system. I also purchased a really cute hand towel holder. I don't like the rings because the towel gets bunched and does not dry well. This one is from Ginger and it has two bars that move on a swivel, independently of each other. The bars are 12 inches long and the holder holds them a good 2" away from the wall. Plus, since they swivel the whole way around, if one is particularly wet, you can pull it away from the wall and it will hang perpendicular to the wall as you wait until it is dry. In this picture, they show the arms out away from the wall. Normally, they will hang closer to the wall that the thing is mounted on, I would think. For instance, I plan to hang it on the wall to the side of the vanity. The arms would be folded up close to the wall most of the time. I suppose you could install it on the wall next to the medicine cabinet and have the towels hang over the vanity area, if you liked....See More1-1/2" Pipe reamer for copper tubing is not 1-1/2" ?
Comments (6)Understood Vith, but the small end of the reamer is 1.70 and the pipe opening is 1.50, it won't even begin to fit into the tubing. Here is a photo of the reamer, I must not be understanding something. Isn't the I.D. of 1-1/2" pipe and 1-1/2" tubing the same, 1-1/2"? I would think that a 1-1/2" tapered reamer would be around 1.50 at the midpoint of the taper. Here's a photo of the reamer. I know a plumber's reamer would be the correct tool, but I haven't been able to find one at an affordable price for my birdhouse hobby. I do have one of those red plastic hand reamers with 4 blades, but I thought this type would do a cleaner, easier job. Now it's more about curiosity, as I thought I understood pipe sizing....See More1/2" vs 1/4" corner radius for quartz countertop?
Comments (29)I love your countertops with the clean lines and square corners i just had quartz countertops installed with curved corners after i had specifically ordered squared. Sadly, they tell me i have to pay and will not replace it. I even hired their designer and we went over all the details including straight clean cut sides and square corners. Not once did they ask me what radius I wanted. She only showed me the buffet in their showroom with squared corners. She then did up drawings with square corners which I signed and they still installed rounded corners. i want to have it replaced, as it isnt what i ordered but now they want to take action if i dont pay the balance owing :( I feel I need to stand my ground as this is a huge investment. Thoughts?...See Moreacreed4
15 years agojejvtr
15 years agoBuehl
15 years agoHow many pieces is your crown molding? Our crown molding is 3 pieces with the middle piece used to adjust for an uneven floor-to-ceiling (or cabinet top-to-ceiling) height. The other two pieces remain the same throughout the kitchen.
We have approx a 1/2" difference throughout our kitchen, yet all our crown molding (except the 2 shorter cabinets) go all the way to the ceiling...no gaps.
The "Stock-S" is used as a "filler" b/w the "Soffit A" and "Crown" pieces and is the one that's adjusted to accommodate the different heights.
sterlingsilver
15 years agokompy
15 years agozoey_neohio
15 years agoBuehl
15 years agoigloochic
15 years agoJust because it's a "Style" does not make it right. I hate the look frankly, and yet no one even notices it in DS's room. It was a very expensive mistake for the contractor (May he rest in terminal heckfire) (he's not dead, just fired). I should have had it taken down the day I saw it frankly, and I'd advise you to do the same. It's worth the wait to do things right, it is, and this from a chick who's working on a three year (NOT DIY) remodel.
Mine looks like it was done on purpose, so it's ok. I live in a house on pilings so I can understand the idea of floating the molding, I just don't care for it. In other rooms, where the ceilings aren't remotely flat, there are some gaps in the crown to ceiling but they're hidden in the shadow line (it helps that my trim is tint de'negre which is brown so dark it appears black). So in these rooms, you don't see at all where there is a gap unless you're on a ladder with the crown in your face.
Since firing the contractor I've found some areas where his wife caulked on our baseboard. She didn't worry about the fact that he obviously didn't nail it into studs so there are big gaps between wall and trim, instead she just filled the gaps with caulk. They look like crap, really really bad. I'm going to redo all of these rooms myself to correct the problem, which involves cutting through the caulk, then pulling the molding off the wall, hopefully not damaging the wall to badly, then new molding, paint blah blah...I'm not a little peeved about this issue.
If you do decide to keep it, I really do suggest repainting the ceiling which helps immensely. I had a white ceiling in my son's bathroom and changed it to a color called parchment by ralph lauren. It flows well with the wood and somewhat hides the issue to the naked eye. It's so much better than when it was white with a huge contrast.
The difference being mine was purposely hung to float...so It's somewhat "ok" since it's just a style issue...it sounds like yours might just be more error than anything...in that case, I just wouldn't live with it.
here are pics of my bath to show it sort of disapears with the ceiling painted...
and in this pic there are areas where the crown does not touch the ceiling due to slope issues (particularly the inside corner you see here...and yet it's rather invisable):
In this room the ceilings really have slope...we just tented it :oP Another option heh heh
sterlingsilver
15 years agoigloochic
15 years agoPoorOwner
15 years agojejvtr
15 years agokompy
15 years agozoey_neohio
15 years agoLeslye Gartrell
7 years agoBuehl
7 years ago
millworkman
7 years ago
igloochic