Front yard: Very good, pH is in the sweet spot (6.3-6.8). Organic matter is good, more would be better especially since that soil is a sandy loam, and doesn't hold nutrients as well as say a silty loam. Sulfur is fine. Phosphorus is huge, no need to add any for years. As you can see, you are a bit unbalanced with the calcium and magnesium. It's not a huge issue, although I would add some Mg. There's two ways to do this, dolomitic lime, or epsom salts. Lime of course will raise you pH a bit, which isn't a big deal, but it takes a while for the Mg to get into the soil. Epsom salts, or magnesium sulfate is much more soluble, and will also raise you sulfur a bit, which is fine. 2 lbs per 1000 square feet for epsom salts, dolomitic is between 20-40 lbs, probably 20 since you aren't really concerned with raising pH, totally your call on which you want to use. Potassium is fine, raising it won't hurt, so when you fertilize, you could use say 28-0-11 if you want to this fall. I don't do micronutrients, but your boron looks a bit low, the others are fine. Back yard: Different story here. pH is pretty low, and as expected, so is your calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Calcitic lime at the corrective rate on the bag (usually 9-10 lbs. per 1000), or you can use Cal Turf Pro. You will be liming every 90 days when the ground isn't frozen for the next two years give or take. Epsom salts at 2 lbs per 1000. When you fertilize this fall, use a high potassium fertilizer, or if you can find it, potassium sulfate, 2 lbs per 1000 for the next three months. Again boron looks low. Organic matter is OK, but more would be better. Lime should go down now, or two weeks after you fertilize. Epsom salts can go down with lime or fertilizer, and I would do two applications this year about a month apart.

A soil pH outside about the 6.0 to 7.0 range can make it difficult for plants to uptake and utilize nutrients. Most all plant nutrients are most readily available in the 6.2 to 6.8 range, but some plants, such as Blueberries have evolved growing is soils with lower pHs and struggles growing in soils with "normal" pHs. Nutrient imbalance can create as many problems as nutrient deficiency. Excess Potash, K, can cause a plant to not be able to properly use Nitrogen, N, and vice versa. An imbalance of Calcium, Ca, and Magnesium, MG, can create problems that give the appearance of a deficiency in either one, because plants need both, in balance, to properly utilize one or the other. so a soil with adequate levels of Ca can still grow plants with Blossom End Rot, of the soil Mg levels are not in balance.

Your soil pH (7.4) indictes that your Ca and Mg are in balance even though they are "high to very high". Most all plants find a soil pH between 6.2 and 6.8 to be optimal because that is the range most all soil nutrients are most readily available, however, most of these plants will do fine at somewhat higher or lower soil pH levels. So what is the level of organic matter in that soil?

OK. I argued with myself about how much adjusting to do, and the answer is decidedly "some but not a great deal." These soils are in very good shape. David's is the easier of the two. It's like Mary Poppins...practically perfect in every way. I'd absolutely avoid phosphorus in his beds, and use nothing with any magnesium in it. Both are excessive, but not a problem (although excess P can cause vegetables to be somewhat bitter and chewy). His yellowing and failing veggies last year were probably from raw compost, or poor hardening off. Compost is, actually, completely unnecessary this year. Your beds are a little more complicated. For the most part, what I said for David's goes for yours as well. Except in your case, absolutely avoid phosphorus sources. Your levels are sky high. Ditto with magnesium. OM levels are very high, but that's not a concern (my gardens are at similar levels from having mulch applied every year). So you can back off on the compost if you like, but if you don't, there's no problem with that (except that the soil will settle faster and further if you use the compost). With good pH and not exactly low calcium levels, I'm hesitant to do too much fiddling about. Only the U bed is even faintly out of range, and for vegetables, that isn't really out of range (most of them flourish in slightly more acidic environments than grasses do although there are plenty of exceptions). I'm going to advise 15 pounds of gypsum per thousand square feet now and again in October when this year's crop is removed--but if you ignore that recommendation, it's no big deal.