Linda, If you look at these picture you can see how I put eye screws in the top of the box. Then I tied a couple 3/4 inch washers on the end of the fish line for weight, that's so the line doesn't blow around and get tangled up. You don't want it hanging too close to the opening or there is a risk of the blues getting tangled in it. Then put it through the other eye screws and tie washers on the other end. If you look closely at the second photo you can see where I filed a very narrow notch in the roof so the string hangs in the same place all the time. Just pull it down tight in the notch being carefull not to break it. Also in the first picture you see the silver mylar ribbons hanging on the box. That is the curly gift wrapping ribbon type stuff that you put on Christmas or birthday gifts. It's waterproof and it blows around in the wind. For some reason I can't explain, the sparrows won't go near it. I learned that trick from another Bluebird web site. A woman researcher in CA. discovered that the sparrows don't like it. As far as the screen inside, I left mine in so the nest is off the bottom of the box so it stays dry. There are vents that let the air circulate and that also helps it stay cooler since the box is out in the open sun. I also left the pegs in because the blues will roost on them during cold weather. They didn't seem to be in the way when the adults were going completely inside the box to feed the little ones or to remove the fecal sacs. In the pictures it looks like the box is close to the fence, but it's about eight feet away from it mounted on a pole with a baffle and grease on the pole below the baffle. After the babies fledged I cleaned the box out the next day and the nesting material was free of any bugs and completely dry. Leaving the box just the way I bought it seemed to work just fine so I won't change it. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is my motto. I hope this helps you, I had a successful nesting and now the parents are bringing the young ones to my feeder for the mealworms I put out every day. My success is a combination of luck, research and all the help from members of this forum. I hope I get lucky and have another nesting but it's getting late in the season and the nights are already getting pretty cool here in the mountains of eastern WV.

Old River Cabinets is a custom company like Geppetto is with pricing about the same. Old river does not have a book and is a pain to price on the fly because you have to know every little upcharge that is based in their computer system they only have. Geppetto on the other hand has a book with cabinets every 3" with countless modifcation charges that I can apply to any cabinet to make it what ever size I want as I stated in the original post of modifying depth width or height in any combination. If they do not have a cabinet I can start with I have to fax in what I want and wait for a quote back. 3" increments just gives you an easier way to arrive at an exact cost. I can stack them verticaly, I can join them horizontaly up to 8' long for a custom look when they are installed. I can change the doors add a drawer anything you can think of. I can custom color match the fireplace which we are doing. I can custom color match the door sample which has the perfect color wood she wants which she has looked for 2 years to find. She is very picky when it comes to color. Geppetto will make anything I can dream. They are custom just in a manner that is easier to price as a designer who is not a employee of theirs. My overhead excluding gas is $3,000 a month. This business is about competing with the prices of the next guy. Lowes and Home Depot who's cabinet companies they represent sell approx half of all the cabinets in the US are the largest competition. 50% markups on semi custom products are about what you have to do to compete on price but then you can not compete on being as established as as they are when you are self employed per say. A typical set of semi custom cabinets cost the dealer 4-6k so a mark up would be 2-3k per transaction. Now since most people want to go with the established to big to fail company they will only buy with you if you give them a deal they can not turn down. So you drop your margin to do it if it is possible. Or you have contractors that want to work with you where the end price to customer is close in price to Lowes and Home Depot but they want money the owner is not aware of which makes you cut your margin in half and share it with the contractor. So either way you slice it I sell cabinets for the average kitchen that are all plywood dove tail full overlay soft close full extension for 6k most of the time and make $1,200 if you are lucky! So a custom kitchen which takes about twice as much time to figure out as there are many more ways you can layout the kitchen so you do multiple layouts before you find the perfect one for the customer has 400% more profit in it then the semi custom prices of the big box stores. And according to multiple posts on here the competition in supposed "custom" is 50k and up! Where I would be a total price of half that! I was not trying to make this about me I was more agreeing with the title of the thread of sticker shock shock. I have other people who buy fix and sell condo's and town houses here in the dc area where the cabinets cost me 900 - 1200 and I mark it up the same 50% to stay competitive. That translates to 450 profit. But wait.... that customer comes from a granite company that wants money for referring the business. So when you give them a 15% discount the profit on those kitchens goes to less then 200 including in home delivery costs. The industry forces you to work on percent markups. You spend as much time on a small job like that as you do on a semi custom kitchen which pays 1,200 or a custom one which takes a little longer that I doubled the price like other companies do I would make 25-50k on one kitchen? And people want to say that is the way you stay in business because you have overhead? Sticker Shock Shock. I agree. I must be to practical. I just wanted to give some context to the prices and point out that the orignial poster was correct to be shocked in my opinion and state some facts as to why it is true. Antss is right that it does take money to sustain a showroom. But you do not have to rip off your customer to do it by doubling the price of custom cabinets. How much money do you need to make on one job to stay in business when you are talking about profits upwards of 35k per transaction?

I read an article on this site not long ago (can't remember where now) that I thought gave some good advice. Buy a couple of high quality pieces. Really nice sofa and chair for example in a neutral color. Then accessorize and add color with less expensive pillows and smaller more original pieces from flea markets as others have suggested or even second hand stores. If you spend some time browsing photos on Houzz and start an idea book you will soon see the similarities in what you like or don't like. Even colors you gravitate towards. So you could get some nice pieces and ideas from Ethan Allen but don't buy everything from them. Fill in with less expensive and unique pieces. It will keep the room from looking like a showroom. Also once you pick fabrics or pillows you like paint stores (at least my local SW) is great about helping pick out paint colors. I think you could very well pull a room together based on an inspiration photo and help from furniture and paint stores. I am no whiz at decorating but I have learned a lot from reading these forums. Good luck and have some fun with it :)

Maybe this is one of the reasons the US Government has decided the minimum SEER rating in the southern states..... Then why would the US Government use the SEER rating as opposed to EER? You've answered your own question more or less. SEER and EER mean the same thing more or less, the only difference as stated earlier is the S which means seasonal. (So not only do you have daily changes in temperature, but also seasonal.) Weathermen have been tracking temperatures for a long time. This is how they know when a new high or low record occurs. These changes can then be taken to determine a good estimate as to the efficiency of the equipment while operating. They know based on set point of 75 degree indoor this area will have equipment run times of 2200 hours. (Houston area specific) This changes from one climate to another based on set points, ambient conditions etc. The US Government decides on minimum SEER ratings for a variety of reasons, one of which is to off set the load on the electrical grid. The south, especially Texas in particular has crazy growth rates compared to other northern climates. So as there is growth, the more efficient the equipment, the less strain there is on the electric grid (which is under immense strain during heat waves) brown outs, and rolling black outs would make for civic unrest and you'd have a mess on your hands like the world has never seen in a state that depends on air conditioning for upwards of 10 months of the year. Efficiency also keeps those electric bills down, so it's not a bad thing in that respect either. If you save $50 on your light bill, you spend that $50 some where else. Which in turn supports another part of the economy. Manufacturer's could fudge an EER number. For one you would need to know what constant temperature they selected for the EER number. Because remember this figure is determined by a 'constant temperature'. You could select 80 degrees. Everyone knows that at 80 degree ambient an air conditioner has a slightly higher capacity at lower temps. So what happens if the manufacturer changed it to 78 degrees. It would give you a slightly better EER. There are a few manufacturers that do not divulge these kinds of numbers. Why do you suppose that is? (to dupe the uninformed.) what other reason could there be? fill in the blank.