HE washer laundry smells, not the machine
CSAPhoenix
12 years ago
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practigal
7 years agoRick Collins
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Fresh smelling laundry one day, oderless laundry next day...
Comments (44)Use Mrs. Meyer's Clean Day lavender (they have other fragrances). I use a laundromat and have asthma, COPD, and very sensitive skin (I break out in hives and wheeze with most detergents. I use a three load washer and it calls for a tablespoonful a load but I use a bit less, and Downy free and gentle softener. The lavender smells good, but it's not overpowering and doesn't 'linger' like chemical fragrances, it just smells clean. In fact the clothing I wash only smells very faintly lavendery a few days later....See Morehe3t Washing machine/moldy smell/Sear's response
Comments (43)Please allow me to post my opinion and experience on this stinky issue. I am the owner of a HE3T washer, and I am really unhappy with it, mainly because of the smelly and moldy issue, that crept up on us unexpectedly. My wife and I have 4 kids, so doing laundry is a daily affair, and not to be underestimated or procrastinated either... I am on the verge of throwing that ugly beast out of the laundry room for good. It is unbearably revolting to pick up an (alleged) clean towel to dry one's face just out of the shower, and "smear" moldy smell all over you. The vomit factor is very high on this one.... :-( However, I want to highlight a point, and that this issue is NOT an issue with ALL the FL (front loader) washing machines in general. Maybe just US made ones... Overseas, ( Italy ) where I grew up, FL are 99.999999% of laundry machines available on the market and this issue is completely unknown. To put it simply, I am now 45 years of age, I have lived in Italy 28 of those years, and I have never, ever, seen or heard of moldy smell on clean laundry out of the washer. Never. If you knew my mother (she redefines the word "neat freak") you would understand. Just the hint of a remote possibility of having mold in the washer and/or laundry, would bring that washer in the front yard in flames... Seriously, I believe US manufacturers have gone wrong somewhere in the making of this machines. They either cut one too may corners ( quality of rubber, maybe ?) or are attempting to reduce the amount of water in the cycle at the point where the quality of the rinse cycle is not an issue with them, and us as consumers are not part of the equation. I just came back from a one year of living in Italy with wife and kids, and the FIRST thing we notice, ever single time we go over there, is how much fresher and overall incredibly better smell of "clean laundry" they have from their washers. I know, we are weird... and on the contrary, as soon as we are back to the US, and to our $#@! HE3T, we pick up the moldy smell again. The customer/user/consumer SHOULD NOT have to do any gimmicks or use any "special" tablets, in order to operate these washers, or any washer, for that matter, NOT A SINGLE ONE. This washers are NOT cheap and they should just... well, work. Living in Italy for the last 12 months, we used two washers, one that came with the apartment we rented, and besides a slower spin cycle, it worked as expected (put dirty clothes in, put detergent, push the button, wait, get wet CLEAN laundry out, END OF THE story. Then the landlord needed his washer back, and for a "rent discount" he took that one back, and I got my old 12 years old Miele washer out of storage. This Miele has a somewhat smaller load capacity than most, and it worked for a family of 6 for a long time. Same for my mother's Candy ( Italian brand), and my sister's old Italian washer (San Giorgio). That one lasted 16 years of day in and day out operation for a family of six. It is just so frustrating, since I know that as a concept, FL do work very well, I have seen it work for decades... and one more time, we should NOT need to use "tablets" or do complicated procedures to have clean and good smelling laundry. As I said before, millions of people overseas use FL day in and day out, without doing anything else other than 1) put dirty laundry in 2) select cycle 3) put detergent in 4) push button 5( get clean clothes out. End of the story. Kenmore, Sears, whatever, get your acts together !!...See MoreDo TL HE Washers Wrinkle Clothes More than FL HE Washers?
Comments (22)My Maytag Bravos washer has a Wrinkle Control cycle which I use for the great majority of our nicer office and church clothes. I use the Delicates cycle for more delicate fabrics and the Hand Wash cycle for the most delicate fabrics and sweaters. I use the Medium spin with the Wrinkle Control cycle and the Slow spin with the Delicates and Hand Wash cycle. When I wash towels and jeans/T-shirts, I use the normal wash cycles and fast spin. I haven't yet had ANY problem with wrinkling OR tangling. I have found the main way to prevent wrinkles in jeans is not to overload the machine (which is emphasized in the manual). My washer does not have an agitator; it has an impeller. The clothes come out much cleaner than they did in my former conventional TL's....See MoreWashing Machine, Bad smell, vent issue???
Comments (8)Based upon the general layout of this line it appears that your jurisdiction is primarily under the International Residential Code. The height of the standpipe is fine. By necessity there is always a horizontal section of pipe between the vent and the trap. Under the IRC the minimum lenght of that horizontal section is 2x the pipe diameter and the maximum length is determined by dividing the pipe diameter by the required pitch. All pipes 3" or under are required to have a 1/2" per foot pitch so if this is a 2" line the maximum developed length of horizontal pipe from the vent to the trap may not exceed 2 / .25 = 8'. The horizonatal section of pipe connected to the stack is running parallel to a concrete block wall. A standard concrete block is 16" long and the pipe appears to be equal to the lenght of 4 blocks so I am estimating the length at 4 x 16" = 64" plus another 12" for the offset to the riser. I am assuming the top of the riser is directly behind the quarter bend protruding from the wall at the standpipe location. Allowing an additional 4" for each 1/4 bend we get 64"+12+4"+4" = 84". 84" /12" per foot = 7' so the length of the run is within the allowable 8' however there are two serious problems with this installation. 1. The stack to which the standpipe line is connected is black pipe plastic pipe. We would need to see the writing on that pipe to be sure because they did at one time make black PVC pipe but normally black DWV(Drain, Waste & Vent) pipe is ABS plastic and code prohibits directly gluing dissimilar pipe. (ABS to PVC or vice versa). While that would be considered a code violation, in this case it would have no effect on the problem at hand so for the moment lets disregard that problem. 2. The second problem is that there is a toilet discharging into the stack at some point above where this connection is made. This means the vertical stack is a wet vent and code prohibits connecting a fixture drain to a wet vent downstream of a toilet. There is an easy solution: The IRC will permit an unlimited use of Air Admitance Valves (commonly called Studor Vents). On the horizontal pipe in the basement cut the pipe on the offset or near the offset end of the horizontal from the stack. Install a Wye & 1/8 bend or a COMBO with the side opening point upward. Stub a short riser vertical about 12" and put an 1-1/2" female thread adapter on the top, then screw an AAV into the thread adapter. This would then make the connection legal because the pipe from the trap to the AAV location would be considered the fixture drain but the line downstream of the AAV to the stack is now a vented branch line, which is legal to connect to the stack. Not only would this make the installation legal but it would also provide the additional venting required to resolve your problem....See Morenonoyabusiness
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