I don't think you're doing the diagnostic correctly. For the fault code display, you need the HOLD and SLOW spin lights on. The fault code is displayed via the eight Wash Progress lights. Add up the binary value of the lights that are on. From left to right: 128, 64, 32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1 The Med spin light is for testing the lid switch and OOB switch, not for getting the fault code. Correct, the water level transducer is an integral part of the controller board. Being as you were able to blow through the tube successfully, the board may very well be bad. However, if you want to investigate further, you could pull the inner basket and confirm that the small hole to the air dome at side of the tub is not clogged. What's the source of your tech sheet being wet? Being that it's stored inside the console, there shouldn't be any exposure to water unless the water valves and/or mixing chamber thermistor seal is leaking. If so, that needs to be fixed ASAP before the console floods and zaps the board. I'm not sure if this applies to GWL10 or only to newer models, but one of the diagnostic displays should (may) report the sensed water level in millimeters. You could perhaps check if it's sensing a reasonable level for what you observe in the tub. Get in Diagnostic Mode. Press Spin Speed Up/Down as needed to get the Fast and Med spin speed lights. Add up the (binary) numeric values of the lit wash progress lights.

well, in the currently semi-affordable ones available at Home Depot - there is a 2700K option (very warm) and a 5000K option (very cool) - I'll almost certainly be using the 5000K lights in the master bath and the kitchen. But think the 5000K is a bit too blue for my taste elsewhere. If there was a tweener I'd probably go with that. Still - as far as I'm concerned - the Eco Smart are the only game in town, everything else being either not very good or very very expensive and often both.

These are HD's version of Cree's new "full definition" (rather than their "TrueWhite") CR6 downlights. The difference is that the cheaper one doesn't render colors as well; so colors will be duller than they appear with the $35 version (which is only $30 if you buy a 2-pack or 4-pack online). Note the CRI (color rendering index) in the specifications for the two different lamps - 90 vs. 80. This is an industry-wide metric for measuring color rendering quality, higher is better. The 90 CRI bulbs will look similar to an incandescent bulb; the 80 CRI will be more like a CFL. I'd go for the more expensive version except for places where high quality light isn't that important, like hallways or basements. For kitchens, bedrooms, or living rooms, the more expensive version is easily worth the small added cost IMO.

Dedicated (integrated) LED lights have some significant advantages. However, one thing to consider -- if you buy one, that's what you're stuck with until you replace it with another entire integrated unit. Right now retrofit screw-in LED bulbs are still evolving rapidly. Their prices have fallen fast and far. It doesn't seem like all that long ago that a 40-Watt-equivalent retrofit bulb at $20 was a bargain. I suspect that retrofit LED bulbs have pretty nearly bottomed out in price, especially with new tariffs on Chinese goods swooping in. When CFs got to a comparable price point some years back, we started seeing specialized features added -- photo and motion sensors, for example. Now that's starting to happen with LED retrofits too. Also, the quality of light they produce continues to improve, though I'd like to see fewer hemispherical lenses and more traditional shapes, and there's less fudging on the actual lumen output and incandescent equivalence. On the downside, advertised design life for retrofit LED bulbs seems to be going down, which I suspect isn't accidental. To finally get to the point here, if you install a conventional incandescent fixture and put a retrofit LED bulb into it, in a few years you can upgrade fairly easily and cheaply with a new retrofit bulb. It'll be more complex and expensive to upgrade a dedicated LED unit, so you might be less likely to do so.