Replace my softside water bed with another or get latex?
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
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How can I get my soil to hold water longer?
Comments (25)Old post but you can use the bathtub effect to your advantage by wicking water upwards. Start with clay on the bottom, followed by thin alternating layers of peat moss and vermiculite then start alternating layers of peat, vermiculite, pinebark, cow/chicken/horse manure etc. What your shooting for is neutral PH, My have to lime and would check with a soil test every other year with the peat/pinebark but that peat will pull the water off of the clay and upwards. The vermiculite will hold the water but also some air and allow the roots of your plants to uptake, and don't burry your wood as it rots away quickly. Another idea would use plastic or steel landscape edging or go with cindar block and cement it in place before people get all crazy with not using cindar blocks being toxic they may have used to be and if you stucco and paint them the leaching would be nominal granted you may want to use pine straw/bark/lime near the edges to decrease the PH and potential leaching. I am growing some hydrangias and making them blue in cinder block so I know the leaching isn't bad covering it with concrete doing it that way "if it was the would be insanely pink". Also thinking about building my cindar block raised beds with white portland, sea shell mix "oyster shell etc" and some other stuff to lower the PH so the leaching would be more beneficial than not. I always say to myself "DON"T FIGHT NATURE"... and try to use nature to fight itself....See MoreYet another water treatment help request
Comments (11)Terminox has gotten good results. Like any of the iron-removal methods I listed, it will depend on water conditions. When dealing with well waters, dissolved oxygen will be a concern with any system. You will want to know how much dissolved oxygen your water has in order to determine the best system for your water. This requires a special procedure for sampling that you will need to discuss with the lab that will be doing the test. TAC variants: They will all be expensive to maintain - the media is not cheap. Softeners: If you decide to purchase a softener, a 0.75 cubic ft softener will work nicely for your situation. If you install a separate iron removal system upstream, the softener will only need to regen every couple of weeks. If you choose to use only the softener, it will regen every 4 days. As to specific systems, this is where your research takes place. I can tell you what to specify, and help to evaluate quotes once you have them, but ultimately you are the one that has to have a comfort level with the vendor you choose. I suggest starting with the local water treatment pros to see what they can offer. The benefit of this approach is having someone to turn to if something goes wrong. You pay for that benefit, of course, but for most people it is the way to go. If you decide to order online, you will be provided only what you specify and any and all problems are yours to diagnose and fix. Provided you are comfortable with that, it can be a good option. Be aware that though you will spend less money, you will spend more time. The following requirements are for an industry standard softener. If you are looking for a non-electronic softener, Kinetico offers the more reliable options at a premium price (and you would need to deal with a local Kinetico rep). Any decent softener vendor should be able to provide the following: High quality American or German made resin. This will provide a tight size distribution for optimal flow within the resin Since you have WELL WATER: 8% crosslinked resin. Top basket. This serves two purposes. It sets up a proper water distribution during normal operation and prevents resin loss during backwash. Gravel underbed. The gravel underbed is there to set up proper flow patterns, improve backwash, keep the bottom basket in place and prevent basket failure, and prevent channeling. Many softener sales companies like to leave this out or sell softeners with a vortex system instead. Vortex systems weigh less than gravel so they cost less to ship. In addition, they are a more expensive item that adds profit for the softener salesperson, but provides no additional benefit to the homeowner . It simply adds another piece of equipment that can break. Fleck or Clack valves. These set the industry standard. Be aware that you will not be able to purchase Clack valves online. This is not a problem if you purchase locally. The valve should regen based on......See Morewater heater size for replacment soon
Comments (4)I have to agree with tjdabomb...If it ain't broke, don't fix it and when I do fix it I prefer to use the KISS method. (KISS= Keep It Simple Stupid). As a plumber it is much better on my bottom line if you upgrade to the bells & whistles, but in my personal opinin the modern standing pilot water heater is without question a "modern Marvel of simplicity". The energy guru's will argue that the standing pilot flame wastes energy, which is true, but when we consider the difference in price between an electric ignition system and the standing pilot, the unit will not live long enough to save even a fraction of the initial cost difference, and keep in mind that the more bells and whistles we attach to a piece of equipment the more points of failure we introduce into the system. Changing out a water heater is a simple DIY job and you can actually do it to full code compliance without even soldering on a copper system. I would advise you though. When you go in search of a new water heater, check your local hardware stores too. In my community we can buy a new 50gal "State" water heater for about $80 less than the price for the same unit at Lowes, and the hardware store will deliver it. Also, compare the prices of both the 40 & 50gal heaters. In many regions the 50gal water heaters are actually a bit cheaper than the 40gal units. I asked my hardware dealer why that is so and he says its because they have a much higher demand for 50's so they order more and get a better price from the factory and a much better freight rate....See MoreReplacing lawn with low mow no watering kind. Advice?
Comments (10)Remember what wants to be here is trees. Lots and lots of really big trees. With very few exceptions, any where left untended for a while is going to turn back into jungle. By far the easiest, most efficient way of beating back that jungle is by lawnmower. The other choices are herbicide, which I assume is a non-starter, and hand weeding, which takes a lot more time. So the further you get away from a mowed lawn, the more difficult the maintenance becomes. This is an enormous reason that lawns are so ubiquitous. They are easy. It does sound like there are places grass is going to be difficult because of the shade. Those places are going to be tricky because shade groundcovers aren't good for playing on. Either they can't stand the traffic, they trip people with vines, or both. Bark mulch might be a good solution for now, though it will have to either be weeded occasionally, or mowed. Weeds are less exuberant in shade, so hand weeding isn't as taxing as it can be in a sun bed. In the sun, overseeding with white Dutch clover won't hurt, but you will still be doing normal mowing. There really isn't a good way around that. One thing I have noticed, is that people who do not want to be identified with Lawn Warriors tend to significantly underpower their mowers, making lawnmowing a harder and more time consuming job than it needs to be....See MoreRelated Professionals
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