We're just across the water from you. :-) That is a very cool fixture, but I think you're right to be concerned about its small size in the scale of your room, especially because of the 10 ft ceilings. Our entry is 8'6" x 10' with 9 ft ceilings and next to our stairway. Our fixture is about 15" in diameter by 12" in ht. The size works with the scale of the room, but the one bulb is not as bright as I'd wish it to be. Your selection may offer more down-light, though. We have nice, bright recessed lighting in the hallway directly in front of this space, and, of course, stairway lighting, but I don't think those really improve the entry lighting situation very much. Determining the right size and scale for lighting fixtures was one of the biggest challenges. I'm jealous of your Hubbardton Forge fixtures...They're, by far, my favorites, but wouldn't fit in our budget. Enjoy, and best wishes!

I'm not quite 5' tall, so MOST ceiling lights are a challenge for me. My thoughts: - Eliminate the problem as much as possible by purchasing those long-life bulbs. - Choose as many wall-sconce type lights as possible. For example, think about your front porch. It's easier for little people like me to reach two sconces placed on either side of the front door . . . rather than reaching a ceiling-mounted light on the porch . . . and the quality of the light is equivalent. - Minimize the lights that are genuinely difficult to change, and use a ladder only when absolutely necessary.

Let's see if I can get this conversation back on track ;) The question of insulation (I will call it shielding) would probably come from the thought of electromagnetic interference, or induction. This is often seen when testing to see if a wire is hot with one of those non-contact glowing voltage testers. For example, it will show the red wire in a 12-3 cable as hot when only the black is really hot. This is not likely the problem, but there might be a small chance of it contributing IF the switch legs of the lights and fan run up to the fan junction box together in a 12-3 cable, before splitting off to the lights. A fan motor runs best on a pure sine wave. A distorted wave can cause a hum. LED bulbs can also buzz for the same reason. All dimmers listed for LED bulbs do not play well with all bulbs. It can often be a guessing game of changing out dimmers or bulbs before you get the best combination. A less than optimal combination can cause poor power quality throughout the house. (A closer proximity can also make the effect worse, in the right circumstance) This is 'inside the wiring' and has nothing to do with "shielding" with respect to the fan motor. You may have more electronics causing this than just the LEDs and dimmers. The dimmers may just be 'the straw that broke the camel's back' or the majority of the problem. https://www.fer.unizg.hr/download/repository/Power_Quality_Primer-_Barry_W._Kennedy.pdf I do not know why that will not work as a whole link. Download here. http://www.docureader.top/doc/38236 I have not read that particular book, but I looked at a couple of pictures, and it seems to explain what you want to know ;D

If I'm interpreting what you say right -- that you want to replace a chandelier with a ceiling fan -- you don't really need an electrician for that. Just keep an eye on things and make sure your handyperson replaces the standard ceiling box with a fan-rated one. You could use an electrician for that specific task anyway, if you want to make sure. If you actually mean you want the chandelier changed to a light fixture and a ceiling fan added, then yes, you should hire an electrician for that. The other electrical work amounts to just changing one light fixture for another. Having wiring work done by an unlicensed handyman is kind of dubious, I'll admit, but you know what? Changing a light fixture just isn't that complicated. All you need is normal intelligence, a moderate amount of experience, and a decent work ethic. Check with your neighbors, friends, and coworkers for references. In fact you could probably swap out the lights yourself, as long as you shut off the power first (not just at the wall switch), take photos of everything as you disassemble the old fixture, and work carefully with an eye to the photos as you install the new one. If you run into any hitches, you can come back here or visit the GW electrical wiring forum, and we'll help you out.