Hi David, thanks for weighing in! There's something about the initial light when entering the room--to see where I'm walking--that makes me so hate a delay. I don't mind the delay in places where I'm already in the room with some ambient light, and then want to flick on a particular location for some task. I have another question about the undercabinet lights, though I think I'll start a new thread on that one. Hi housavvy, thanks for your input. I really appreciate your point about the up front expense. The person at the lighting place we visited said that going LED was like buying your electricity "up front". That you are spending more earlier, and there will be a payback time at which you reach the equivalent. For home kitchens, he suggested that if we're going to be in the house less than 5 years, to do the lower-priced CREEs (the CR6s, if they come out in time) or not LEDs--because the payback for the lower-priced LEDs would be about 3 years, and then it gets longer the higher in price you get. Balancing all of those things (time before payback, quality of the light, delay in coming on, etc) is key. I do know that having a delay upon entering the room is a showstopper for me personally, so hearing how things are actually behaving in real life is terrific. :-) Thanks! Lee

To answer my own question, I called CREE and they told me that UL determined the ground wire is no longer required. It saves at least 10 minutes on the installation process so I like the change.

I just had the same issue with one turning pink after about four years. I have several others that seem fine. Did you get in touch with Cree and get it resolved?

This from wiki on cfl bulbs: Dimming: Only some CF lamps are labeled for dimming control. Using regular CFLs with a dimmer is ineffective at dimming, can shorten bulb life and will void the warranty of certain manufacturers.[63] Dimmable CFLs are available.[64] There is a need for the dimmer switch used in conjunction with a dimmable CFL to be matched to its power consumption range, many dimmers installed for use with incandescent bulbs do not yield acceptable results below 40W, whereas CFL applications commonly draw power in the range 7-20W. The marketing and availability of dimmable CFLs has preceded that of suitable dimmers. The dimming range of CFLs is usually between 20% and 90%.[65] However, in many modern CFLs the dimmable range has been improved to be from 2% to 100%, more akin to regular lights. There are two types of dimmable CFL marketed: Regular dimmable CFLs, and "switch-dimmable" CFLs. The latter use a regular light switch, while the on-board electronics has a setting where the number of times the switch is turned on & off in quick succession sets a reduced light output mode. Dimmable CFLs are not a 100% replacement for incandescent fixtures that are dimmed for "mood scenes" such as wall sconces in a dining area. Below the 20% limit, the lamp remain at the approximate 20% level, in other cases it may flicker or the starter circuitry may stop and restart.[66] Above the 80% dim limit, the bulb will generally glow at 100% brightness. However, these issues have been addressed with the latest units and some CFLs may perform more like regular lamps. Dimmable CFLs have a higher purchase cost than standard CFLs due to the additional circuitry required for dimming. A further limitation is that multiple dimmable CFLs on the same dimmer switch may not appear to be at the same brightness level. Cold Cathode CFLs can be dimmed to low levels, making them popular replacements for incandescent bulbs on dimmer circuits. Google "dimmable cfl bulbs." You'll come up with lots of sites selling dimmable cfls, including Amazon. Here is a link that might be useful: Google search: dimmable cfl bulbs