mcassel, I think part of the info you're missing is this: The MR in MR16 stands for Mirror Reflector. The AR in PAR stands for Aluminized Reflector. Highly polished mirror reflectors are able to direct light in a very focussed, controlled way, so the light the bulb produces can be directed to in a very specific direction (yielding a high candlepower in that direction but throwing little light off to the sides. This effect is increased with low-voltage bulbs because the filaments are smaller. However, the tightly controlled beams that are native to these bulbs can then be softened and adjusted with optional diffusing lenses that dim4fun mentioned. Aluminized reflectors are much less polished and tend to scatter the light, so less of the light is concentrated in the middle of the beamspread, and more is sent off to the sides. If you want dramatic, spotlight-like effects then the MR bulbs are the way to go. If you want softer-edged light, or if you're trying for even lighting, where the pools of light from adjacent fixtures can blend together somewhat seamlessly, then PAR lamps are probably the better choice. If you want soft light but need especially small or versatile fixtures then MR-types with diffusing lenses might be the solution.

jwnmkm's electrician "didn't remember how he wired it". I have the same problem. A transformer has malfunctioned, but following wiring visually from switch to where it "disappears" behind base cabinet, we can't tell where transformer is. There is a granite slab backsplash between base and wall cabinet. Without disassembling entire kitchen, is there a way to find out where transformer is or how far from switch? I remember decade ago a tool we used when wiring commercial properties to determine where a break would be, but can't remember what it was called. Thanks for any help.

The basic layout should be 1) Your switch should be fed from the branch circuit. 2) The transformer should be in a junction box that is accessible - eg not behind a finished wall. The transformer will break eventually. 3) The power should run from the switch to the transformer on a continuous wire. 4) The wire between the transformer and the first light should be continuous. 5) The wire between the first light and the second light should be continuous. Any wire that you use before the transformer should be of the same gauge as the wire coming to the switch. Any wire after the transformer needs to be of at least comparable gauge to the wires that came in your kit, just longer. If that means you have to buy some additional wire for any of those runs, so be it. Even if the chance starting a fire with a low voltage wire is small, it still isn't something you want to splice and then hide inside a wall or ceiling. Treating 12V like normal voltage might seem like overkill, but you can easily start a fire with a 9V battery and some steel wool. Low voltage means that it won't kill you if you touch the wire. It doesn't mean that it can't create heat or a spark. If you are burying low voltage lights for landscaping, you don't really need to worry about catching the ground on fire. If you are going to put low voltage wires in your walls or ceiling or anything else that could burn, then you should take the same safety precautions that you would with any other wiring.

my dad puts wire in a garden hose for a race way. The difference in insulation is relevant to weather it can stand up to direct sunlight or be burried other than that its just heat rating id say use the cheapest wire you can find in the approaite gage (16) then if your worride about it wrap it in electrical tape for some cheap sun resistance. word to the wise i have a gate and since the instaltion have been itching for more range on the reciver and have even been considering digging a 50 foot trenct to install a remote reciver out by the road to boost my range so it will be open by the time i get to it. I.e smartly place your reciver to maximize range