Do you really need to limit yourself to remodel cans? That looks like a newer structure, which suggests a drywall ceiling; cutting out sections of it re-patching around new fixtures isn't that big a deal.

To your question, I think you may want to use different wattage bulbs for the different ceiling heights. I ran a few numbers based on 40-degree MR16 floods, with center-beam candlepowers of 700 at 20 watts, 1250 at 35 watts and 2000 at 50 watts. Because MR16s are prone to create very sharply defined cones of light, I think you'll want a fair bit of overlap so you don't get dim areas. You could use 20-watt bulbs on the low side and 35-watters on the high side and get decent light, or 35-watt bulbs on the low side and 50-watters on the high side and get very bright lighting on the counters. In both cases I'm figuring the spacing would be about 28" on the low side and 36" on the high side. I emphasized on the counters because, while these bulbs are very good at putting light exactly where you want it and can easily put plenty of light on the counters, the total number of lumens so far is pretty small for the room, so you'll come up short on ambient light, and I'm inclinded to look for ways to add some. Of course with that wall of windows, you won't have any problem during the day.

So, my instinct would be to put in some good undercabinet lights flanking the range. I'd probably use seven 35-watt bulbs on the low side, over and around the sink. On the high side I'd mount the track on the low side of the beam, on the beam itself. I'd point one 50-watt bulb at the counter on the right of the range, and two or three more at the counters/peninsula to the left of the range. I'd then add some more fixtures to that track, pointing them upwards to bounce their light off the ceiling. This won't be enough to fill the room with light at night, but you'll be able to see and move around just fine, and you'll have plenty of light on the counters.

Off the cuff, that's the direction I'd head in. Don't forget to light the other end of the room, down by the bar.

Thanks for your response Jon.

I've considered what you said about remodel cans vs new construction fixtures, and have tried to find any sort of recessed light fixture that is IC rated, and designed for a sloped ceiling that will fit in a 5 1/2" joist space. My conclusion thus far is there is no such animal.

I've most recently been looking at Nora Rail Line voltage monorail lighting. With one line run above the edge of the sink side, and another along the beam (either with the rail mounted along the beam as you suggested, or suspended from the ceiling 6 inches away from the beam as my wife seems to prefer)

I've sketched up an overhead rendering showing where I think the fixtures might look good from an aesthetic point of view. But the particular track fixtures I'm interested in (Nora Lighting Melody Line Voltage Rail Fixture) come with a 40 Watt GU9 halogen bulb and I'm concerned whether this configuration would put out enough light.

{{!gwi}}

I think those are pretty fixtures, but there's a warning, in red, right on the page you linked to: This fixture comes with G9 bulb, which gives out more dispersed light than directional. For directional lighting, choose rail fixtures with MR16 GU10 bulb.

Those fixtures might provide pleasant ambient light, but they won't do a good job of getting concentrated task lighting down to the counters. If you want to use them, I'd use them only on the high side, where you can supplement the task lighting with undercounter lights. On the low side, where you have no UC options, go for the MR16s.

Please forgive my backwardness...after fretting for a long time over not being able to figure out a lighting plan, or how to upload my kitchen plan to a message, or...well I could go on and on....My preliminary question is "how did you get the drawings of your kitchen into your message?" Thanks.