We have a Solatube in our downstairs bath. It has a light inside it. It gives off plenty of light at night with the light on. At first I had an incandescent lamp in there, but I switched to a florescent and I still like the look of it and the light it puts out. With the sola tube, you can chose from several diffent lenses, and we got the fancy one that kinda throws light in every direction, so choosing the lens as well as the bulb type, I would think it would be plenty of light at night. Have had the Sola tube for probably 5 years or so, absolutely luv it. Bathroom is nice and cheerful, day or night and I'm amazed at how low the Sun gets and yet still an adequate amount of light. HTH's Gary

if you want it to look really nice, just get some canned lights. It will offer far more lighting and look 100X better. Then you could do a single, larger sized pendant (say, 14-16") centered over the island. right now it looks like you removed a dining table, put in a small island, but left the dining light hanging where the table used to be. Either center it, or remove it and do all cans. see? recessed lighting, and two mini pendants. or do one larger one

@itsourcasa - apologies in advance for posting pics on your post since you’ve said you’re not interested in Solatubes but @Karen did ask so nicely! Karen, it’s a gray, low overhead & very wet showery day again here in PNW - another pineapple express that won’t move on. So, these pics were just taken in low outside light conditions - but, they should show that even in this dreary weather, my interior is brighter than it would be with lights off. Per our forecast I’d have to wait until next Tuesday for a sunny day to show you how really bright & cheery the natural light is. Kitchen with pot lights off then on. The windows you see on right are north facing & there are east facing windows not shown also on right. We changed pot lights to LED daylight color to match natural light Great Room 2 solatubes with diffuser covers & more ”formal” looking than kitchen fixture - also east facing windows.. At end of short hall on right is windowless laundry room laundry room lights off then on. This is smaller tube & same size as the one in our stairwell to upstairs bonus room. That one also has a LED light in it for night use

The drawing shows a single pendant fixture over the island. That pendant is just a ceiling mounted fixture, so there are many choices of size and number of lamps (say, "sockets"). For scale and openness from two directions in the Kitchen, you probaby want a fixture with more than a single lamp, or go to (2) pendant fixtures. Since this island is also your prep space, the type of fixture you choose will also dictate how successful task lighting on this counter is performed. _________________________ Unfortunately, the electrical drawing uses a symbol showing all the ceiling fixtures as ceiling mounted. I would assume by placement that they are actually recessed lights. And the "dot" used as a hashmark on the dimension lines adds to the confusion as well as other drawing methods chosen. The ceiling lighting in the Kitchen appears to be layed out purely by 2-D paper aesthetics and not function. The "4 corner" lights are lighting up the floor instead of the counters. Yes, you have UCLs, but you can see they do not cover all the counter surfaces, the insides of lower and upper cabinets, and the "4 corners" will create shadows from humans at the counter and lower cabinets, so UCL's only supplement counter task lighting. Depending on your contractor, the electrical plan produced by an architect can be beneficial or can be used to work against you. Most residential architects, without using consulants or not having any field construction experience, are not experts in MEP coordination issues, current NEC code, or if they have not been exposed to commercial projects they would probably have little knowledge of lighting and HVAC. It is not a knock on your particular architect, it is the norm, but I say all this because there could be some issues with this electrical plan. The dimensional placement is good to get the design ideals you want. However, if not fully coordinated with all information, some issues can arise. For instance, the Pantry light has "S" which I believe to be "semi-flush," centered on the ceiling, but are there cabinets all the way to ceiling? If you only use the left door, how do you get to the switch? Another example, in what I think is the Dining Room, the Pendant ("P") is centered over the opening to Kitchen, but the island or Kitchen window is not in line, and is your dining table centered on this opening, or would doing so cause circulation problems next to the buffet nook? Also the Kitchen outlets indicated fall short of NEC requirements. If the contractor used this drawing as just a general guide, then they may have accounted for additional outlets in their pricing, or since there is probably a general note saying the contractor must adhere to code, they will fill in the blanks and make some decisions on their own. That is the rub, will there be a charge later for extras, and do the "decisions on their own" go against the intent of design. For example, counter outlets max 24" reach. The range outlet may be stuck in your backsplash instead of hidden down low behind the range. The hood J-box needs an exact placement for the style of hood. The DW requirements for a cord have recently changed, as have island power. On small jobs typically the architect is done after drawings, so it is up to the sophistication of the G.C. or the owner to coordinate info to keep with the design intent and prevent redo's and extra costs.