We are going to have a one zone furnace for the whole house. We are going to have the electric warming floor tiles in the master bath. The master closet which has carpet and no heated tiles and is off the master bath is quite large 14' x 12' and that's where I get dressed in the morning. I spend about 45 minutes in the bathroom and closet every morning getting ready for work. I just wanted something fairly simple and inexpensive that I could turn on when I'm in there either if it's really cold outside and I want it a little warmer in there, or in the spring and summer when I'm not running the furnace and it's still quite chilly in the morning where I live. Yesterday we went to the big Home Show and saw a couple of wall heaters. We also saw a radiant ceiling tile with a on/off and thermostat. The product I liked the best was call ConvectAir. They make several different types and styles of wall heaters. One can actually be built into the wall with new construction and can be painted. They have a thermostat, but also an on/or switch that actually sends out heat like a space heater, but very quiet. I will have total control when I want it on or off and it will add heat quickly when I want extra heat. I think I'm going to get one for the master bath and one for the closet. They're pretty cool!

Sure, Build.com and other sites sell them. Found one in about two minutes. Here But they are not going to work for a sloped ceiling. No one probably makes one that swivels like you would need for that application. Heat in a radiant form, as in a light bulb heater, travels in a straight line and you will be heating whatever surface the ceiling pitch has the bulb pointing at. You need to build out a triangular box to put the fixture in. You can drywall it so that it is not as obvious as mine was. It is not a great picture, but in the upper left side of the photo you can see the maple triangular box that gives my light fixture a level surface to hang on.

Regarding using a 3 wire to supply 2 new circuits to bathrooms being gutted..I just read another post where the GFCI keeps tripping because it shares the same neutral. Is this going to be my situation that I will have 2 bathrooms with seperate circuits being feed from the same neutral on the 3 wire. I did not fully understand the post. If this is the case, can I install a GFCI outlet in the bathroom, does this eliminate this problem? I will have a bathroom light and fan over the shower too which I need to get into the GFCI circuit.

Yes it is weird. I know that when I did the post it indicated there were 2 post, yet in the general lineup of threads on the bathroom forum, it just indicated there was one. I edited the second post, so now it may show up. But I will copy the post below. Apparently this part 2 thread didn't post so here it is. "Part Two" (refer to above post for part one) Tile, floor and shower: The floor is Stone Peak, in the Fossil pattern, the color is Deep Sea. It is very pretty and I think it goes nicely juxtaposed to the shower tile. It is lovely with the walnut coloring. The Shower tile is Atlas Concorde in the Marvel Calacatta Extra design. It is 12x24. It is porcelain and very strong. It is rectified and made in Italy. I stumbled a crossed it and was able to order it from Nebraska Furniture Mart. It goes very well with the walnut. I apologize to Mongo for having consistent lipage throughout the shower L. I put floor warming wires in, like I did for my first bathroom remodel. I used SunTouch WarmWire brand, 240 volts. My electrician installed the thermostat but I did the rest, learning from Stacey Neil, Mongo, and the John Bridge Tile forum. DH thinks this warm floor is great. I used mostly Laticrete tile setting products, Hydroban, thinset 254 modified, their silicon color caulking, and the spectralock epoxy grout. I sometimes mix custom colors and did with the shower wall grout. I also custom mixed my caulking in a ziplock bag. Instead of Ditra uncoupling membrane like I used for the first bathroom, I used the Laticrete Strata Matt that was new. It has vents in the waffles to allow the use of modified thinset (allows drying through evaporation of the ingredients). Ditra is to be used only with unmodified thinset (where the product drys via chemical reaction “setting type”). The Laticrete Strata Matt is around 45” wide and too wide for me to use very well. The Ditra is around 36” wide if I remember, and easier for me to manage. I used Mape Self Leveling Compound to cover the warming wires prior to the uncoupling membrane application. if there are any more questions you have please ask. Again I have not proofed this text since last year ;) I hate the thought of reading this long post.