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Can Lights for kitchen remodel

16 years ago

What a great source of information this is! Thanks to everyone. I've searched and searched but can't seem to get any reliable even general data on the actual light projection of cans from an 8 foot ceiling to the countertops and to the floor (fully recognizing that brands, wattage and trim rings will vary but isn't there some "rule-of-thumb??)I'll be using 5 inch cans with 26 watt fluorecents and get conflicting advice re how far apart they need to be located for even lighting of the countertop work areas and the room in general. Thanks in advance. BOB

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Comments (4)

texasredhead
16 years ago
Most people do not realize that in most cases recessed cans provide what is called ambient lighting. That is the cans light an area but do not provide work area lighting especially if you are using flourecents. Also, unless you have spent high dollars those lights cannot be dimmed. Some cans are down lights to highlight art or some other object. As an example, if you have recessed cans in a living/family room and want to read you usually turn on a lamp next to where you are seated. Regarding your countertop situation, you would be better served with undercounter lighting. The "in" thing to do these days is to use pendant lights over islands.

I am speaking as an electrician who has installed more cans then I care to count. There are also lighting designers who you can usually contract through lighting stores.
Jon1270
16 years ago
I agree with TRH's comments about fluorescents. Incandescent cans can provide task lighting, especially with PAR or low-voltage MR bulbs, but fluorescents inherently scatter more of their light off to the sides rather than creating a tight, bright beam. Use UC lights for task lighting wherever you can, and use the fluorescent cans primarily for ambient light.
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IMHO, the 'prettiest' light is low voltage halogen. The opening is small (down to 3.5"), but the light is bright and has a very high CRI (color rendering index). It is very energy efficient. I argue that it's just as efficient as a CFL (when taking dimming into account), but too many people have misconceptions about CFLs that I'll never win that argument. And that's not even getting into the environmental impact of the two bulbs. But, USHIO has come out with an MR16 halogen bulb with an 18,000 hour life span. So just right there it lasts twice as long (in reality, much longer) than standard CFL's. And when you dim the halogen, it extends the life of the bulb and saves energy. I've used them successfully in ceilings up to about 20'. They're more expensive since each has its own transformer, but the look and quality of light is more than worth it.
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I failed to describe the switching control arrangement previously. I intend to have the three varieties of lighting(general, under, and over) controllable from either end of the room. This would be an all-or-none arrangement for each type, single switch activates all recessed/general lighting, single switch for all under cabinet, ... For the general/recessed lighting I intend to have that dimmable from one side of the room. This central fixture that you see as necessary, would that be a member of the general lighting class(always on with the recessed fixtures)? I didn't mention that the ceilings are 8', so uncertain on an actual chandelier, at least what my mental image of a chandelier is. Thanks.
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Avoid the fluorescent cans. I know. I repeat this- a lot. But it's worth it. The Cree LR4 is a 5" LED. It's a very slick looking fixture. You can also go with the LR6 (which is less expensive and a 6"). But you'll save much more energy going the LED route. You won't have ballast issues. You'll be able to dim the bulbs and the overall light color is so far superior to fluorescent. And not in the least- there's no poisonous Mercury in the LED bulb... which, by the way, will last about 30 years in your kitchen. Just the fact that you have to ask those questions about fluorescent bulbs and that you don't need to for LED should give a good idea to the inferiority of fluorescent vs LED.
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Jon1270
16 years ago
Bob, the ideal spacing would depend on the reflector shape. Since the reflector in fluorescent cans is part of the fixture (whereas it's part of the bulb in incandescent arrangements) you really need to get this spacing info from the manufacturer of the particular fixtures you will use. That said, spacing is not going to be nearly so critical with fluorescents as it would be if you were using halogen bulbs.
kirstysea
16 years ago
Hi california bob-- kudos to you on wanting to use energy efficient lighting in your kitchen. We also chose fluorescent cans for our kitchen remodel, which is currently ongoing.

Disclaimer: I am not a lighting designer, electrician or any kind of expert. Just a homeowner like you. Still here's what we did, if it helps:

We just installed 6" juno fluorescent 26 watt cans in our kitchen, with alzak haze trim. We aimed for about 5' apart; in areas where we would be working a lot, they got as close as 3'. I can't say how they perform since they literally went in today. :)

Good luck!

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