I think you need to add the vermiculite also to your mixture with more peat moss. The humus/compost to way to heavy and when wet will turn to mud. I suggest using 1/3 vermiculite; 1/3 humus/compost; and 1/3 spagnum peat (as per Mel's formula) for the best draining yet moisture reserving soil. When mixed in this way, you wouldn't believe how light the soil mixture can be and how well it drains too. Don't forget, your roots need air as well as moisture. HD has the really big bags of vermiculite in the garden section. At my store it was located right across from the containers (empty pots) and right above the Miracle Gro potting soil. The vermiculite bags were a brown Kraft paper color. This worked very well for me. The vermiculite was about $10 for one of these really big bags. I made 2 - 2x8' beds and each bed took 1.5 bags of vermiculite. Also, instead of buying the compressed peat spagnum moss, I purchased the MiracleGro spagnum moss that was bagged. No clumps to deal with and it already has a little fertilizer mixed in with it and doesn't repell the water like the compressed spagnum moss does. Good luck next weekend with your beds!

I just noticed I was replying to a very, very old post, but figured I'd leave it in case anyone is still reading. I had a bad experience with this zinsser oil based interior/exterior cover stain as well. I did not tint but it is tintable. I used it right after buying from depot and having it shaken for 5 min at the counter. I applied on an outside beam that was partially prepped with a wood hardener after removing dry rot, but the majority was just the previous paint that was in good shape. 2 days after painting, it's still slightly tacky. I called zinsser support and they said the only thing they could think of is if I had been applied on too hot of a day, saying it needs to be under 80F. It was topped out at just under 70 the day I painted, but the sun here does get hot in the South Bay below San Francisco, so maybe the surface was hotter?? I'll check today compared to air temp. If temperature wasn't the cause, then my experience seems similar to yours. In my case it would be a huge job to remove the product from the large outdoor beam so I'm looking for other solutions. I still need to add an epoxy pc woodie filler where I had removed and cleaned out dry rot before applying the cover stain (just used to make sure the pc woodie epoxy would stick and add an extra layer of protection against the weather to the entire beam...which I now wish I had skipped!) My current plan is to wait it out a week or 2 and hopefully dries (next week is supposed to be low 70's but the rest of this week is 80's. In the upper 80's the 2nd layer is even forming a few bubbles, so I've just been popping those to make sure it dries out beneath. It's only slightly tacky, but looking for no tackiness before I take the next step. If anyone has any tips or any idea if waiting longer will help, let me know please. Thanks! And for the next time, a better product to use than this zinsser oil based primer which was highly recommended by depot.

What kind of cabinets do you have behind the range? Are they regular shelves? It seems like the cutting into them in order to put in the electrical and gas connections would be fairly minor. It shouldn't take much space in the cabinets - a few inches high and a couple of inches deep along part of the 30" of the range. If the range can fit flat against a wall, that probably means just the space for a junction box and for a gas outlet and shut off valve. So you won't be loosing much storage space. In most places, code requires having an accessible shut off valve for the gas. We found the cabinet behind our rangetop to be a convenient location for it. The GC may have intended to put in a spacer instead, but it may be better to not lose floor space to a spacer all along the cabinets and have a little lost space in one cabinet. I don't understand why you would have to cut into the cabinets beside the range - it should be possible just altering the cabinet behind the range. I also don't understand why the range isn't going in all the way now - does part of the range project in back? Normally when a range goes against a wall, the gas and electrical connection are recessed into the wall but the range itself doesn't stick into the wall space at all. So your range without the connections having been put in should be able to slide all the way in. Are you sure that the cabinets are installed square? I wonder if they are a little off so that the space between the cabinets gets narrower as you get to the back.

Hmmm. I've read about this problem before and people made it work. Where is the sink sticking? Just in one area that could trimmed out on the cab or is it just too big all the way around? If that was it, I'd probably go with the plywood...that would seem the easiest. Sorry you're having this glitch but hang in there!