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Heating & Air Conditioning

Toe Kick Cabinet Ducting

10 years ago

Hello, I am trying to get my bathroom finished. I am DIY'ing some of the areas, design, paint, and tile. I am going to have a bathroom cabinet installed in a few weeks. I have prepped the floor with tile and I have a 6" floor opening for a duct (per carpenter's request) for the toe kick heating/cooling vent that I will have in my vanity.

Now I am having difficulty finding the parts to make this venting work. I can find the grills, but not the boots to go from 6" floor round hole to horizontal duct to toe kick. All within the limited 3" or so vertical space.

I have seen the ToeDuctor kit, but it does not show the boot for a round floor opening, but in the FAQ section it says that it will fit:
http://www.toekickductor.com/faq.html

I have seen this image (below) at Midwest Duct that might work but I can't see the whole thing to know how the rest of the unit would connect to duct work.

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Comments (5)

klem1
10 years ago
If the area beneath the vanity is isolated from wall cavity(or can be made so) simply allow air to free flow in area and through a grill cut into toe kick.
Otherwise use somthing like this,

Wall Stack Register Stack Head. For installing a wall register use with wall stack duct and fittings into a 2Ã¢ÂÂ³x4Ã¢ÂÂ³ or 2Ã¢ÂÂ³x6Ã¢ÂÂ³ wall.

Simply a 3"x 10" or 12" rectangular metal duct with a 7" hole in one side,one end closed and other end to grill.
enduring
Original Author
10 years ago
Klem1, I am a little confused as to the options you've listed. Here is an image of my vanity in plan view with the location of the round 6" floor opening that is already finished with tile.
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Oh thanks Mike---I'll check into those options. The HVAC PM said they would have to special order the duct and asked for my husband to send him the measurement for the ducts to the toe kicks. The kitchen one is extremely close to the front of the toekick -we'd originally planned for a furring wall on our log wall (so the cabinet was thought to be placed 3 inches further out from the wall when the ducts were put in) -and then later, removed the furring wall so the cabinets will go directly on the logs. The cabinet guys said the duct will work fine--it will just be a small space after the 90 degree to the toe kick register. The cabinet guys are here-they said they could leave the toe kick off so that the duct could be installed later--but I dont know how its going to happen with the cabinet already in place even without the toe kick--we may need to cut out the floor of the cabinet in order to secure the duct...tbd. To make it more complicated-its on unsealed gypcrete--so we cant screw anything into the floor-and will need to seal around it if we want to glue anything to the floor (we've been told its impossible to get things to glue to unsealed gypcrete long term. Oh man. Appreciate your help.
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klem1
10 years ago
Many new duct system installs require at least one piece custom built by a tin shop useing installer's specs. Why? Because you can't buy off the shelf any configuration emaginable. Draw it up and take it to a fab shop just like the big boys do if they can't buy it off the shelf and don't have a metal shop of thier own(which very few contractors have).
enduring
Original Author
10 years ago
Thank you very much Klem1. Actually my nephew is a sheet metal worker, maybe he could do this for me.

Or I could just spend the money on the Toe Ductor and make my life very simple. It would be shipped to me, ready to go.
enduring
Original Author
10 years ago
Klem1, here is a picture of the Toe Ductor. If money were no object would this be a good product to use? Or could I just get a flat rectangular wall stack laid horizontal with a 6" hole cut at the proper location and finish is with a 6" collar to mount to my floor.

I sure like the ease of the Toe Ductor, just not the price. But I am about ready to just order the darned thing to make my like simple and fast.

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