Don't take this the wrong way, but I do think you are being too picky and anal retentive about the Suzuki. Starting on three pulls is fine by me, and I have owned more than a dozen Suzuki's, including about half which were Commercial Prolines such as the 22040 and 22043. Yours is an early Consumer model and probably only has a choke. Later models also had a primer button because the Mikuni carb often wouldn't flow enough fuel when cold. However, if you're starting with three pulls, you got no complaints. Also, You are not doing your engine any favors by running 32:1. Toro and Suzuki have recommended 50:1 since day one (mid 1980's) and oils were not as good 30 years ago. They also approved TCW-3 oils. Before you or other readers go nuts about the TCW-3 recommendation, keep in mind that this is a relatively low revving 2 stroke. It's governed at 3600 rpm and has a max speed of 3900 or 4000 rpm. This is not a high end string trimmer turning 10,000 rpm or a chain saw doing 12,000 rpm. Suzuki knew what they were doing. Lastly, I disagree with the previous poster about premium fuel. Usually I find him well informed and on point, but not in this case. Premium doesn't run "hotter" or "cooler", just has less tendency to knock and preignite, Main potential advantage to premium is that it is sometimes available without the 10% ethanol. And ethanol is bad news for the rubbers and elastomers in the carburator. Ethanol is also hygroscopic (attracts water) and the resulting moisture will attack aluminum and zamak carburetor parts. If the premium has ethanol, it's then no better or worse than regular gasoline. My recommendation would be to run ethanol free gas where possible, stay with recommended 50:1 oil premix, and use a high quality oil. A synthetic is great, but really not needed. As for Marvel oil. It won't hurt anything, but I'm not as sold on it as some people. If you start having a lot of trouble starting (8 to 10 pulls), then it may be time to look at the crankshaft seals. These are relatively cheap ($7 to $10) each, but a major job to fully disassemble and replace. BTW, if you want the Toro/Suzuki manual (492-0260), send me an email, and I'll bounce back with a PDF.

lol... My last propane bill was $900, so I lowered the temp a bit. It seems to be running a bit better at 54 degrees. Last month I had the thermostat set between 56-62 (up to 62 for maybe 5 hours a day) and that scored me the $900 bill. I turned it down this month to see how much impact it'd have on the bill, but that's when I noticed it doing this little start/restart routine.

I have a newer Electrolux machine and can't find the manual. I was looking here for how to run the clean cycle - even though it prompts me and I just have to hit start. I couldn't remember what to add and where. I finally found someplace that said to add a cup of chlorine bleach to the detergent cup (after removing the insert for powdered detergent). I did, then turned the knob to "clean machine" and hit 'start'. I'm not sure what all it did, but it was very different from a regular cycle. The water was really being sloshed around hard in the machine and there were lots of suds. Since I didn't add any detergent, I assume that is from the machine running the hot water and bleach through all the guts of the dispensers that don't usually get that much hot water (or any bleach) run through them. If I had an older machine, I'd never be able to remember all those steps and would have to look every time.

Here are some questions to ask: How do you determine the size of the furnace and AC condenser? How do you determine if my duct work is adequately sized? What do recommend for a media filter and why? Do you offer a 10 year parts and labor warranty from the manufacturer? Can you quote me a few variations of system (good, better, best) and explain the advantages of each? Are you technicians NATE certified?