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Heating & Air Conditioning

Replacing system - hydro or forced air?

16 years ago

Looking for some advice, we've had several different HVAC suggestions from different contractors.

Adding a second story to a 1955 walk up attic cape in CT. Heating is hot water radiators w/oil boiler (old), indirect water heater (15 yr old amtrol). Want to add ac and new boiler/furnace. At first we thought easy - go with hydro on second, stay radiators first floor, add loop of baseboard registers to basement. BUT, the HVAC contractors we've spoken with recommend taking the radiators on the first floor, particularly b/c we're adding ductwork anyway and it gets rid of low hanging heating system pipes in the basement.

OK, we like radiator heat, but seems to make sense from a cost perspective to switch.

forced air for whole house at that point or hydro? seems like forced air is the best option - does hydro at this point make ANY sense?

What about hot water if we go to forced air? we love indirect hw concept b/c never run out. How good are hw tanks? one contractor recommended tankless. I'm afraid of tankless after all i've read (will have 3 full bathrooms).

convert to gas or keep oil? surprised to hear all say yes to gas, gas line already in house for heat and dryer - no brainer.

I think we're at the point where we're converting to gas furnace, all forced air, but what are my hw options? It's a priority for us to never have hw be an issue.

Sorry for the long message and thanks for your input!

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Comments (3)

kframe19
16 years ago
Does hydro make any sense? In a few words, HELL YES!

I would NEVER abandon a functional hot water system, especially not for forced air, and especially not in an older, likely under insulated and likely under sealed home in a cold-weather state.

Simply put, I believe it's the most comfortable heating there is.

Designing ductwork that works well with both hot and chilled air is difficult, as they have very different properties.

Where are they locating the ductwork for the cooling? Near the floor, or in the ceiling?

If in the ceiling, it's perfect for AC, because cold air drops. But, because hot air rises, ceiling ducts aren't so great for heating. And vice versa.

There's no reason why the heating pipes in the basement have to remain low hanging. Circulated hot water isn't nearly as sensitive to pipe pitch as is either gravity hot water or steam.

Where you live most of your emphasis is on heating. Yes, cooling is nice in Connecticut, because it does get hot and humid up there, but I've been through some New England winters and they can be downright nasty.

Were I in your shoes?

I'd stick with a dedicated hot water heating system with a high efficiency indirect hotwater storage tank, and leave your AC system just that, AC.

You can run the AC fan in winter to help keep air circulating and also to provide filtration.

As for gas over oil... Things are looking ugly on the oil front. I'd probably go with as high an efficiency boiler as I could get.
User
16 years ago
It's certainly hard to choose between going with a clean single-style system of forced air or having a mixed system. Hot water heat is more efficient, less drying and can even be more quiet.

We don't have oil heat here so I can't speak for either fuel.
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Before I started getting any new system quotes I would get an energy audit done. Your local utility might have someone or pay for a portion of it..some pay a large portion. I would make sure the house is shot from the inside and out with a thermal imaging camera while you are there to see it first hand. Have the registers both supply and return flow tested and compared with what the unit is supposed to be at and get a blower door test to see how much leakage you have. I would go on a caulking and foaming rampage any wire or pipe penetration into the subfloor I would caulk or foam and any in the attic same thing. Recessed lights are a big leakage point even IC rated can leak up to 50cfm each. I would get this done and then get the new unit and make sure they seal the ductwork at every seam and connection before putting insulation over it. I went back through your post..I would get quotes for a new system, both gas and all electric. I would post the results in here along with at least the state you live in and electric and gas rates. The people in here that really know hvac will need the model numbers of the units you received quotes on, outside unit, inside unit and coil. Some utilities will give you a credit or pay you to upgrade if you keep a heat pump. I have seen some go up to 1,000.00 for an air to air system depending on SEER. Quite a few will throw 300-500 at you just for upgrading.
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Hi oldmacdonald, I wrote the thread "Air Bubbles In Baseboard Water Heater Pipes". I'm not a plumber, but am learning as I go. Being retired and having to pay for service calls hurt, so I try to do it myself. The people on this forum are great and can really help you solve your problems. Have you followed all the replys to my thread? When you pressed the valve down on the air vent, did water come out? You didn't mention that. If not, you probably have the same problem that I had. I changed the air vent to a Taco 400 and it appears the problem is solved. Maybe I should not talk so soon, but I am tickled about how quiet it is now. When you purged the system, did you open the pressure on the pressure regulator to force the water thru. That helps force the air out! That is why I put the other end of the hose in a bucket outside, then I can see all the air bubbles coming out. When the bubbles stop, I stop! Hope this helps, only my .02!
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Seeing as youÂre renovating and have ducts already, why not invest in a geothermal heat pump system and leave behind the volatility of fossil fuel prices? You wonÂt have the low humidity problems as well since geothermal is a low temperature heat source. You can probably heat your home for about 1/3 the cost of a fossil fuel system, heat your DHW and have A/C as well Â all from 1 integrated system instead of 3 separate systems. Zero emissions, no service contracts. ItÂs a no brainer! IMO SR Here is a link that might be useful: geoexchange.org
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baymee
16 years ago
I would never switch from hydronic to warm air heat. Never. I've had a tankless coil in my boiler for over 30 years and never run out of hot water. They provide 5 gallons per minute at 60# of pressure. Do you use that much? If you have a lime problem, then maybe use the indirect.

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