Where can I buy 6-inch wide ventilated shelving for pantry?
kygirl99
15 years ago
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bluekitobsessed
15 years agokygirl99
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Interesting Find for Ventilated Shelving - Anyone Seen These?
Comments (4)DD had scrap beadboard left from a small project in her kitchen (she covered her island) and SIL made her some covers for some of her wire shelving. He did not have enough for all of them, just the ones where small items were stored. Another good idea is to buy sheets of formica and cut to fit each shelf. You can buy a full sheet at Lowes for $42-$50. You could do an entire small size pantry with one sheet. Tuesday...See MoreEfficient pantry in 22-inch space?
Comments (8)My vote: Get a frameless cabinet (a diagram of the difference here) and here made for there, no matter what you do in other places in the kitchen; paint it as if it's wall, and give it a slab door, also painted to look like wall. Make the cabinet go all the way to the ceiling. You can even skip the toekick on that cabinet if you want (a local unfinished-furniture place can make this for you if nec.--it is essentially a bookcase with doors, just leave off the plinth on the bottom. The flat wood door(s) can go ALL the way up, pretending to be wall. You might want a fixed shelf halfway up--just at eyebrow height, maybe--to stabilize it; you might also want the door to break halfway up so you don't have a weirdly overtall door. Pullouts will be crucial, w/ that 30" depth. And I agree w/ you on how important it is to have them be adjustable once they're in. The frameless cabinet is crucial to that. Here's the best way to get them adjustable. use those slotted shelf standards they use in bookcases, and buy these clips that you can attach drawer slides to Then get either drawer boxes (from some place like www.maplecraftusa.com or TapeEase.com or many other places you can find online; I personally think dovetail is overkill, and would try to find some place that will use a rabbet or dado joint) or pullouts (from some place like www.shelvesthatslide.com which will make them to the size you need) to be your pullouts. You might be able to find a local woodworker who will make the drawer boxes for you, or the pullout shelves. You could even make pullout shelves out of 3/4" plywood w/ lattice nailed and glued to the sides as rims. You can get tallish drawer boxes to hold a lot; ShelvesThatSlide.com has a deep pullout w/ a slanted side--taller toward the back, to keep stuff from falling out; shorter toward the front, so you can see in. I did once buy a SINGLE drawer slide for Elfa baskets--you could mount them on the cabinet wall, or under a shelf. But my vote would be, if you can swing the...See More6 inches extra to pantry or DR serving counter?
Comments (43)Lavender--thanks for your thoughts. I do need a place for beverages off the larger buffet space at the end. Appetizers would go on the buffet first to be replaced by the main meal later. I always have a problem finding a place for drinks. They could go on the buffet with the appetizers, but then they'd need a place to go after that when the meal was set out. I'm not sure where I'd put them after that. I'd like a space for them to live permanently. Depending on what kind of entertaining we're doing (kids party vs. holiday vs. adult b-day), usually we have a couple bottles of wine or a pitcher of cocktails I've mixed up in bulk ahead of time, water, and a non-alcoholic beverage like an herbal lemonade (whatever looks good in the garden--basil, mint, lavender, or my fav rosemary!) or a fruity iced tea. Usually people help themselves. Rhome--Looks great! I can see the mirror! ;) I think that's probably best functionally, even though I love the hutch idea visually. Those uppers are 12" deep, right? Even though they would stick out a bit farther than the wall, I think that's fine. That wall with the art would be a great place for something cool or creative. Did you create that modern art yourself? ;) Thanks again!...See MorePantry - where to position pull out shelving
Comments (11)High up is where big things should go--tall things, that you can take off the shelf by holding on to the BOTTOM of the thing. And yes, lightweight things. I think that high-up shelves SHOULD be pullouts. Then, you can reach the stuff in the back more easily--because you will actually access them from the SIDES. Ditto for the bottom-most shelves. I don't want to have to dig way in the back, AND low down. The two lower shelves SHOULD be pullouts. And I haven't done it, but I fantasize about having at least 1 more shelf (all fo them pullouts) than most people think you should have, so that I have them pretty closely spaced, w/ no wasted headroom. In fact, probably I'd have TWO more pullout shelves. If I couldln't have *more* than 6 shelves (I'd probably want 8), then the middle shelves would be the fixed ones. (And I'd have them made a bit shorter than the others, bcs then I'd put back-of-the-door baskets to use up the space in the front of the pantry, and to keep the fixed shelf from being so deep that stuff gets lost in the back.) And I'd lay my canned goods on their sides, so I can see the labels. And, because then the cans would not be very tall, and I could put another pullout very close above it....See Morekygirl99
15 years agokygirl99
15 years agodescayg
6 years ago3z3z3
6 years agoVicki Yurick
6 years agoAliceHasLeftTheBuilding
6 years agomobuddy89
6 years ago3z3z3
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoJudyth F Gillies
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