Most of the Infinity/Evolution units that have been installed in my subdivision as replacements have been the 16 SEER versions. For the price increase, the 19 SEER probably isn't worth it, and I think the reciprocating compressor is fine in almost any situation. I like the lower capacity on stage 1, and both compressors (scroll or recip) would have a 10 year warranty. The 25HPA6 quote also communicates with the Infinity system and has a scroll compressor, but it's lower capacity is much higher, so less run time in low stage. I'm assuming the 5 year warranty is through the company itself. Usually it is 1-2 years. 10 year labor warranty coverage usually runs around $6-700. Hard to tell what can happen, but labor costs can easily make the extended coverage pay for it. If the $700 is feasible upfront to you, then you may really thank yourself down the road. Most do not go with the extended warranty I imagine, but if you can, it certainly will only be beneficial. Let us know if you have any more questions.

Hi All again: Just had my second opnion. The tech spent a lot of time measuring current and pressures. His conclusion was that the pressures were a bit high (i.e. as if it was a 90 degree day outside when it actually is 75) and the superheat was too low at 3 degrees. He said that the unit definately needed an acid bath and then remeasure the pressures. He felt that the acid bath would address the pressure issue (since it wasn't "breathing right") and there was no need to replace the unit immediately unless I wanted to save $ on energy costs. He estimated that going from a 10 SEER to a 14 SEER would save 30-40% on cooling costs. Have one more coming on Thursday.

Onoble I will assume nat gas service is not available. Several questions first. What size is existing system? What size is existing heat strip? there are three equally important components-quality HVAC, the install by dealer, and probably the most overlooked and disregarded is the ductwork system. these are my minimum specs for a new HP system. both outside and inside units should be replaced to have a properly matched system. 15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF best matching VS air handler full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron) scroll compressor preferred electronic demand defrost preferred thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature staged backup heat strips new and correctly sized refrigerant lineset 10 yr warranty compressor and parts you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc. any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed. I would only use authorized dealers for the various brands that provide quotes. see mfg websites. I would look at Trane/AmStd,Rheem/Rudd,Carrier/Bryant. For your location/climate,I would not purchase a new HP system that did not have electronic demand defrost. The Trane mdl has it, Bryant does not. Electronic demand defrost eliminates unnecessary, nuisance, and expensive defrost calls. Please note. The Trane quote is for a three ton system, the Bryant quote is for a 2 1/2 ton system. Here are the AHRI performance/eff matching numbers. I am listing both. 2 1/2 and 3 ton fir the Trane quote. � � 4563201 Active Systems XR13 WEATHERTRON TRANE 4TWR3036B1 � *AM7A0C36H31 � 36000 12.00 14.50 35200 9.00 22200 � � � � 4563144 Active Systems XR13 WEATHERTRON TRANE 4TWR3030B1 � *AM7A0B30H21 � 30000 12.00 14.50 28800 9.00 17400 � 3699918 Active Systems LEGACY 13 PURON HP BRYANT HEATING AND COOLING SYSTEMS 213BN(A,W)030****A � FV4CNF002 � 30000 11.50 13.50 29200 7.70 18000 The numbers speak for themselves especially in heating efficiency and the fact that the Trane has demand defrost. On the Trane quote, you want the 803 thermostat or the identical mdl from HW #8321. On the Bryant quote, you would want their Edge thermidistat. Adding a return upstairs plus insulation will help even out temp and be more comfortable. Refrigerant lineset must be the correct size to manufacturer specs if you plan to reuse it. Close does not count. It's difficult for me to believe that a15 KW heat strip as quoted by Bryant is correct. I would like to discuss heat strip size further. Post back. IMO

Turf grasses can send roots down 6 inches with no problem in a good healthy soil, however a good healthy oil is more than just some "black top soil" laid down on clay. Clay can be a good soil, if it is well amended with adequate amounts of organic matter which is what makes any soil into a good healthy soil. Look for some organic material, what you put down, that will become organic matter in the soil, the residual organic material, and helps feed the plants you are trying to grow. A good healthy soil will contain about 6 to 8 percent organic matter. Have a good soil test done for soil pH and major nutrient levels and maybe use these simple soil tests to see what is there now and what you need to do to get to that good healthy soil. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.