Has anyone heard, experienced or read anything about a "sewer odor" leaking back up through their Kenmore Elite Calypso washing machine. I have an intermittent problem but it definitely is coming from my laundry room and the developer is at a loss to find the source. Just wondering if anyone has suggestions or info, and if so, please email me at cruiserjen@yahoo.com as well as post the info for others who may need the info. Thanks... Jenna

PATIENT: Kenmore Elite "Calypso" washing machine; model 110.22082.100; s/n CL1604761

ORIGINAL SYMPTOM: OVERFILL (FL) fault code
ORIGINAL TREATMENT: Since I had experienced this fault several years ago, I knew to check the pump first. Last time there was a small bit of fabric that had become jammed in the impeller. This time it was coins. Last time I was not able to remove the fabric from the pump, since it was too entangled in the impeller, so I ordered and installed a new pump. Problem solved. This time, even after removing the visible coins, the impeller still does not spin freely, but it will turn when pushed with a screwdriver. So, I have not replaced the pump, yet, but rather reinstalled it and ran the diagnostics on the enclosed Service Technician's Tech Sheet. Results shown below.

CURRENT SYMPTOMS: Inconsistent diagnostic test results (see below) I was surprised when diagnostic test results hinted at other problems after the pump was reinstalled.
"Water Inlet and Dispenser Valve Operating PS Test"
Step 1- The "End of Cycle", "Set Delay Time", "End of Cycle" dance sucessfully activates the diagnostic test indicator mode.
Step 2- Pressing the Wash/Rinse Temp button is suppose to illuminate "00" on the LED. In addition, the "Estimated Time Remaining" light flashes and the "Heavy Duty" light illuminates.
Step 3- Pressing the Wash/Rinse Temp button again successfully tuns on the Cold Water Inlet and Fabric Softener dispenser valves, with the Cold/Cold and Normal LEDs turned on, along with the H.D. lights.
Step 4- Pressing the "Wash Time" button was suppose to turn off the NORMAL light (which it did); however, it also was intended to turn off the Normal-Maximum LED (which it did not). The Fabric softener valve shut off, as anticipated; however, the fresh water value did not turn on.
Step 5- Pressing the "Wash Time" button again is suppose to turn off the Norma LED (which it did) and illuminate the Normal-Maximum LED (which it did not). It is also suppose to turn off the Fabric Softener value and associated light (which ti did) and turn on the Fresh Water vavle and associated light (which it did not).
Step 6- Pressing the "Wash Time" button yet again was suppose to turn off the Normal-Maximum light (it wasn't lit) and turn on the Minimum-Normal LED (which it did not). It is also suppose to turn off the detergent valve and associated light (which weren't on) and turn the bleach valve and its associated light on. (which it did not)
Step 7- Pressing the "Wash Time" button a 4th time is suppose to turn off the detergent valve and light (which weren't on) and turn on the fabric softener and light (which it did not)
Step 8- Pressing the Wash/Rinse Temp was suppose to turn off the Cold/Cold LED (which it did) and turn on the Hot/Cold LED (which it did). This also turns off the cold inlet valve (which it did) and turns on the hot water valve (which it did not)
Step 9. Pressing the Wash/Rinse Temp button again is suppose to run on both the hot and cold water inlets (which it did not).
Step 10- Pressing the Wash/Rinse Temp button a 3rd and final time is suppose to turn off all valves (which it did).

The Nutate and Circulate Test had similar partially non-functional results. I also noted that during this test the Estimated Time light blinked and the High Duty light illuminated even though the documentation didn't mention this happening.

The Spin and Drain test, which does just what it says, worked OK every time. Again, the Normal light was on during this test without any mention of it in the test documentation.

The Automatic Service Diagnostics test seemed to work as specified, exept that sometimes it seemed that the recirculation pump didn't turn on.

After unplugging the power plug, I have unplugged and then replugged in all the connectors on both the Machine Controller and the Motor Contoller boards, as well as the switches.
I would appreciate some advice from more knowledgeable and experienced forum members on what is wrong and what I need to do or what part I need to purchase to correct the problem(s). Than

Chess, you need to look on the back of your book and call the Sears Lemon number listed. You do not need all the troubles this machine will give you. We went through two of em..............Sears finally replaced washer and dryer with the new Oasis models free. I have posted the lemon number elsewhere on this site many times. Let me know if you cannot find it.

jenna295,

My machine had the same problem. After disassembling the mini-agitator in the center of the drum, I found a rubber seal shredded. This created a water leak into the u-joint section. The u-joints were rusted and FULL of mold! It stunk so bad! That's when I took pictures & headed to Sears to complain (see my Post above). Good luck!

My calypso(RIP)was replaced in April just as the lawsuit was being finalized. Sears gave me $900 credit and let me pick out a new machine. It wasn't easy...I almost gave up. Here is the phone number you need to call...it's for SEARS ONE SOURCE. 1-800-479-6351. These people know what they are doing, and are very easy to talk to. Call even if your warranty has expired. They can and are very willing to help you.

Has anyone had any luck getting anything from Whirlpool on their Calypso if they were not eligbile for the class action suit due to timing factors?

Thanks!

I called the lawyers myself a few weeks ago. The settlement has been made and it can take up to a year to hear if you are getting a replacement or not. That is due to the amount of people signed up for the suit and they have to determine one by one who is eligible and who is not. I literally called the lawyer in tears when my washer was leaking for the 2nd time on the 2nd floor. I'm on service call number eight in three years.

Just had the Calypso serviced again. Same problem; tub won't drain because of a poorly designed pump. According to the tech, this machine is very problematic. The pump is very susceptable to lint clogging or seizing the pump impeller. The pump was upgraded with the last service call. Still, it clogged requiring another service call. After repairing the washer, the techs' parting words were "I'll be back" Fortunately, I have a service contract covering this thing for another two years. After that....???? Ironically, this machine replaced a 25+ year old Maytag that worked fine, just concerned about potential problems.

t

Just today, I have AGAIN called Sears to schedule another repair for my Kenmore Elite Calypso washer. I have exactly the same problem as "t" who also wrote today -- the tub won't drain, and I get a "ld" error message, apparently from the defective design or defective parts on these washers. I bought this washer in October of 2005, it first clogged and malfunctioned in August 2005. The Sears repairman said he replaced the pump and just days later the unit drained onto my floor so he returned again and did something unknown. The one year warranty expired and last month it clogged again with the "ld" message. This time I took it apart myself and found gobs of lint in the tubes. (this was not an easy process.) now, just a few weeks later, the machine again won't drain, and again it says "ld." But just week a Sears repairman was at my house to try to fix my Kenmore Elite dryer (also defective, also the subject of multiple repairs, but in that case it is the circuit board) and I told the man my washer is causing many problems. he said "the Calypso is nothing but trouble. they never should have put that machine on the market." So now I have finally realized it's not just my machine. Internet research reveals clearly that this is a horribly defective product and Sears knew about it, even has settled lawsuits, yet was still selling this machine in late 2005. How is that possible? Is there a current class-action suit I can join? The one I found covers only those who purchased Calypo washers up until October 15, 2004.
I am so disgusted with Sears.

I bought a used Whirlpool Calypso about 6 months ago, mostly because they're unusual and now somewhat a collectible. The serial number indicates it was manufacturered in 2001. There's nothing mechanically wrong with it, the pump works fine. It had sat for some months in a resale shop. The fuse on the motor controller board blew when I powered it up the first time, requiring replacement of the board (the fuse isn't separately replaceable). I found a used board for $50. The machine is rusted quite a bit for its age. I suspect improper use of high-sudsing detergents was a contributing factor, but I can tell that the design of the machine is also at fault. There's also noticeable hard-water deposits/scale around the top and tub. I've cleaned it up, but it could use a bit more attention. It's not my primary washer, but I've used it numerous times and it DOES work. I washed a friend's queen-size goose-down comforter last weekend, she was pleased with the results.

Has anyone heard of this issue happening? During the night, the whirly calypso (is that a salsa type music?) started to beep. We unplugged it. This continued everytime we would use it and forget to unplug it after a load. Beeping and flashing 44. All the error codes are letters, not numbers. Whirlpool phone tech said it must be how many minutes are left in the cycle. HUH??? IT IS DURING THE FREAKIN MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT! For a long time, we could plug it back in and continue to do loads of laundry. Once it got started it functioned perfectly. At the end though, replugging it in didn't help and it would flash 44 (not F44, the display only has room for 2 digits)and only beep if we tried to push cancel. I can still get it to work intermittantly but it is getting to be a pain. The FLIPPIN washer is a drama queen. Phone tech says probably both control boards.......several hundred more hard earned $ -- I DON'T THINK SO! Does anyone have a reasonable suggestion to cost effectively repair this catrostophy - I mean calypso besides a bomb or the curb? Thank you, Bob - rprainbow@aol.com

Have a look at the Job Aid and also servicematters.com

The "Service Pointers" and "Service Updates" sections have - not surprisingly, I guess - lots of .pdf files about the Calypso washer.

Alex

Can someone confirm if Sears is still honoring this post information:

"" * Posted by burns5000 (My Page) on
Tue, Aug 8, 06 at 14:07

My calypso(RIP)was replaced in April just as the lawsuit was being finalized. Sears gave me $900 credit and let me pick out a new machine. It wasn't easy...I almost gave up. Here is the phone number you need to call...it's for SEARS ONE SOURCE. 1-800-479-6351. These people know what they are doing, and are very easy to talk to. Call even if your warranty has expired. They can and are very willing to help you.""

oh. my. God. This thing is a nightmare.... i tried calling the number above, they told me the ONLY thing they are offering to do is waive the fee of the repairman.

Any advice anyone? I don't to waste anymore time on this thing.

You know, Consumers can do a lot to save our environment but what about these corporations that reserve themselves the right to build faulty products that end up in our field-land in 1 to 5 years? Don't they have any environmental responsibility?
And why is our government taking any action against them? I guess I am digressing...
I just research on what is supposed to be a huge improvement with respect to the Calypso model, the Kenmore Elite Oasis, and it turns out that it has same or worse problems.
In my personal case the ECB (electronic control board) blew up for no apparent reason. Connect to its own breaker (20A) the washer basically had no reason to 'destroy' itself and interestingly enough just a few weeks after the one year warranty was over.
I have contacted Sears and argue with them for hours (which by the way nobody will pay us a penny for our time in the phone) The finally agree to diagnose the washer and see if it was factory faulty, in which case they will replace the part for free.
I don't know about you guys, but at my job I get pay $35 a hour for my time. Will we ever be repaid for all the time we have to waste in the phone and waiting for them to do their job? Will we ever get fit up with it and take the case all the way to the supreme court, now that Alberto is not there we may have a chance to make a case...
Sorry about ranting, but I have been fit up with the corporate way of doing thing for over 10 years now...

NO POWER to even get an error message.
My Whirlpool calypso will not turn on- no errors at all. It's as if there is no electricity to it. Is there a fuse maybe that could be replaced? Yes,the breaker and outlet does work for different items.

Also, I see there was a Part 1,2 & 3 of this thread- I can't figure out how to pull them up. Thought maybe I wouldn't have to ask this question if I could see what others ask.Please advise.

Also. Thanks to everyone for taking time to post this stuff. I feel so much better knowing there is help out there.(however I must admit you have scared me about my decision to have purchased this machine!)

The motor controller board has a fuse, but it is not replaceable. If something causes the fuse to blow, the entire board must be replaced. Sounds like that's what may have happened. Check if the machine will go into diagnostic mode: turn the machine off, then press Soak - Cycle Signal - Soak - Cycle Signal. The display should show "dt." If not, I'd suspect the fuse/motor board. I can tell you how to check the fuse if you have a volt-ohm meter and know how to use it.

Ok, so it sounds like we have been lucky - our Kenmore Elite, purchased in 2001, has been a great machine. Had to have the pump replaced about a year ago for the first time but never any damage to clothes or staining. However, now, the "agitator" has stopped "rocking" - the basket still spins and the water drains, but no "agitation." Is this the u-joint? Has anyone ever heard of this problem? I hate to have a repairman come out only to tell me it's going to cost hundreds of dollars to take the whole thing apart or something.

Are you getting an error code? Does the motor run for both wash and spin? If so, then *maybe* the u-joint is OK and instead the leveler mechanism is stripped and not being turned by the drive shaft. The leveler is inside the dome and is what runs the wash plate for nutation. If the motor stalls for washing, then the u-joint may be frozen or jammed. The motor itself and the controller board are apparently still OK at this point if it spins. The pump motor is a separate unit from the main drive motor.

A u-joint kit can be had online for between $104 and $120 or thereabouts. It includes the u-joint, leveler, inner wash plate, spanner nut, and all required seals. Doing the job isn't that big a deal, I did one couple weeks ago. Does take a couple special tools (a spanner wrench is required, and a torque wrench that measures at least up to 130 inch-pounds is a good idea). I haven't priced appliance servicemen in years, but I don't suppose they're cheap. One thing to look for on a Calypso is whether the basket hub is in good condition, which you can't see that until disassembly. If it's badly corroded or even cracked, that's another $144 minimum for a new basket.

That's reassuring - there is no error message, and, even more curious, I discovered that if I manually tilt the wash plate before the wash cycle starts, then it works - it just fails when it is level - for some reason this sounds to me like it could be a leveler problem, just cause of the sound of it. I don't think the motor is stalling, it completes the wash and drains and everything - left alone, it causes a slight vibration during the wash, like it is trying to run and just can't.

I just found this fourm today while searching for error codes on my kenmore calypso washer. Wow, apparantely we've been living in the dark ages and missed everything surrounding this piece of junk washer. I have had it repaired no less than 6 times, with today being $260 for the motor/pump replacement. We purchased it in November of 2002 and I hate it. So, now that we've missed out on the Class Action Lawsuit, is there anything I can do?????? Do I have anywhere that I can complain to? I can't believe how much I've shelled out for this washer in the past 5 years, heck it hasn't even been 5 years yet!

How did you not get notified? Have you been going through Sears for repair? Here's my thoughts - call that One Source number about half the page up and see if they will refund you labor costs (if you have been using Sears). 2nd idea: if you weren't notified of the lawsuit, then you weren't included in the "class", which means that if you want, you could still file your own lawsuit. When I was searching, I found a couple links to lawfirms, I think one was the firm that filed the class action suit. You could contact them or if you have any lawyer friends, a letter to Sears or Whirlpool might get you a credit toward a new washer or something. The other thing I just did, I bought a service contract (through sears) for my 6 year old washer so next time it breaks, they will repair it for free and if I get 4 repairs this year, they will replace it (keep your fingers crossed for me). I never buy the service plans, but for $143, I figure it is going to save me hundreds of dollars in the next year! Again, if you are dealing with Sears for repairs, you should ask them why you weren't offered a service plan. Good luck!

Calypso Elite: clothes are getting wedged under the agitator, and are extremely hard to get out. Is this common? Any suggestions?

Back again... My problem was no power at all (last post Sept 16). It will not go into diagnostic mode. Nothing. I DO have a 'volt-ohm meter' but don't know how to use it. But thats ok, I will access the info from web & figure it out. Please advise me if there is a particular thing that might 'fry' me though (lol). So,if it is the motor board, where can I get a one cheap- maybe used? Is it easy to replace?
Thanks for your help! You are greatly appreciated!!!!

Remove the rear panel on the control console. Looking at the machine from behind, the motor controller board is on the right, with two large blue cylinders

Make sure the machine is *disconnected* from power. Set your meter to Ohms. Touch the probes together to confirm the meter needle moves or the numbers change (if it's digital). Test the fuse by touching the probes to the metal ends of the fuse as indicated in the picture below. The board is covered with a lacquer-type coating, you may have to lightly scrape the coating off the ends of the fuse so the probes can make contact. If the meter needle doesn't move the fuse is bad (current cannot pass through it).

There are several online sources for parts. I've been using www.partstap.com You may also try eBay, search for "Whirlpool Kenmore Calypso." The motor board is the same for both brands.

Replacing the board is easy. The control console removes and flips forward for ease of access (I can tell you how to do that later), then you remove the wiring plugs and a couple screws to swap the board.

My parents have a Kenmore Elite Calypso washing machine.

It broke on them the umpteenth time and they spoke of throwing it out and replacing it. Money with them and I is tight and so I decided to pilfer it for parts (pump/motor/control boards/pressure switches, etc)...

Fun for a rainy day I guess..

I tore into it with little worry about what part I was removing or whether or not I was doing damage. As soon as I got to the pump I was stopped in my tracks. Someone's shoelace had wrapped itself around the pump's "centrifugal spinner thing!"

I thought to myself, oh crap, showed my parents, and agreed to try to rebuild the thing...

I've rebuilt it and it basically operates, with a few problems.

#1 - I couldn't figure out which tube the operating pressure switch was connected to an which tube the flood pressure switch was connected to, they're identical. From the outside of the plastic drum, they appear to run to separate areas (or depths) inside the drum. I made an educated guess based on watching the behavior of the washer run under test. However, if anyone knows for sure, let me know.

#2 - I couldn't reattach the rubber debris-guard/noise-muffler that wraps around the U-joint, it was originally glued or something?

#3 - I ran the unit twice with the same load of clothes, both times the same piece of clothing got stuck under the "wash plate," the thing that radiates out from the central cone where your clothes get washed (what the clothes sit on top of)

I looked at this wash plate, knowing that this was not normal behavior and hypothesized that perhaps the 3/2" rubber piece that was extending up from the outer edge of the wash plate was originally forced down against the wall of the drum when it was installed. I unbolted the plate and forced the rubber piece against the drum as I reinstalled it. With this done, the rubber was always in contact with the drum wall, and by my theory, clothes would at least find it very difficult to get underneath..

So, thinking I'd solved the problem I ran a nutate test on the washer and it just wouldn't move. It tried to move but was not powerful enough, in fact the control electronics blinked an error which meant the motor had exceeded its current limits.

So, I'm writing this in hoping that someone who's obviously better at repairing this than me will read it (or who atleast has the service manual).

I want to know which tubes go to the OPR/FLD switches, any advice on reattaching the rubber cover to the universal joint, and most importantly...why the washer is sucking clothes underneath the wash plate when it nutates (and why forcing the rubber seal against the drum didn't work, it seems the only obvious solution to me).

Keep in mind, there was no water in the washer when I did this, perhaps its some sort of dry lubricant or clothing-safe lubricant on the rubber that I killed when I pressure washed it.

Sorry for the rambling, it's driving me crazy. Any help, tips, or blind advice appreciated...

I do not know if you have found this link before.

Maybe it will help.

Keep scrolling and you will find info on the Calypso Machine.

good luck

It doesn't matter which hose connects to which pressure switch. The hoses come from the same level/depth on the outer tub. It's the pressure switches themselves that are different.

The gasket around the wash plate should not be wedged downward. It should face upward. If it's worn or deformed to the point that clothes are slipping beneath, the wash plate must be replaced. The gasket is not separately replaceable.

Is this the "debris-guard/noise-muffler" you mean? It's called a boot -- a seal that keeps water out. You MUST NOT run the machine with water if the boot is not there and not sealed properly. The u-joint must completely sealed again water. Beneath the u-joint there's an o-ring that seals the boot against the basket hub. The o-ring MUST be replaced EVERY TIME the u-joint is removed. If you didn't actually remove it, then that should be OK, unless it was already leaking. However .. it should NOT be possible to remove the boot unless the entire u-joint is removed. If you were able to do that, then the boot is likely torn. If so, then you will have to get a u-joint kit to replace the entire thing. The boot is not available separately.

The top of the boot seals against the inner dome that is bolted in place beneath the wash plate. Rubber washers go in the little depressions around the six bolt holes of the u-joint. A foam gasket fits atop that, then the inner dome.
{{gwi:1999961}}

The wash plate is bolted into place on the inner dome. Then the outer dome snaps atop the assembly.

In regards to the pictures above, you may have an older machine with the *original* inner dome (translucent instead of brown) and u-joint (yellow boot instead of black). That older style was changed in late 2001 to the design you see in my pictures (brown dome, black boot). The parts are designed slightly different and are not interchangeable. If you buy new parts now, they'll be the newer style.

The older style used a separate gasket INSIDE the translucent dome to seal against the boot. This older seal IS still available, but the rest of the older parts are not. I have two Calypsos, one does have the older design but I've never disassembled it, don't have any pictures of it.

I do have the older style...

The U-joint boot I believe was already ripped.. It's been a while since I put it back together, not sure if it was ripped or had a line cut down the side of it.
Taking apart the washer was disgusting.

The U-joint (and every other surface that wasn't agitated during the wash process) was covered in what looked like mold and hard water minerals..

I fact I was left with a rather sizable pile of ths crap on the garage floor from this..

So, this leaves me in a quandary of laundry so to speak...

I don't know if my parents want to spend like $250 for a wash plate and U-joint assembly (I guess also plus a new "inner dome")

I tried to remove the U-joint originally, which is why the boot was pulled off (it was easy, so damaged I guess).. I couldn't figure out how to pull it off.. I pressure washed it looking for a way to attack it with a wrench to no avail.

snickerbritches, btw, nice link...

My model is a kenmore though, are there any differences I should know about with the Old style kenmore model and the whirlpool model in this manual?

You can get a u-joint kit (which includes EVERYTHING in the new-style -- u-joint/boot, lubricant, spanner nut, leveler, seals, and inner dome) for $102 from www.partstap.com

An outer wash plate is $60.

That's $162 plus shipping (and taxes depending on your location).

If you don't have a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut holding down the u-joint, you'll have to get one.

One thing to beware: examine the basket hub for cracking. You can't see the hub until after the u-joint is removed. Your hub likely will be coated with smutz. Pull the basket and clean it with a wire brush (gently but thoroughly). It must be cleaned so the pink o-ring will seal beneath the boot. If it's cracked, the basket will shift and be unstable on the hub mount and spin severely off-balance. A new basket is $144. Picture below of a cracked hub, and new basket.

It may be that your wash plate is OK, but the basket hub is already cracked and the basket shifted, which will cause more of a gap on one side of the wash plate gasket than on the other, allowing clothes to slip under more easily.

Use GVW9959KL0 for model number look-up, which is Whirlpool. Whirlpool and Kenmore Calypsos should be identical mechanically. Kenmore uses a slightly different outer center dome (Whirlpool's has a swirl on top, like an ice cream cone), but they should be interchangeable if the diameter and mounting snaps are the same.

Where do you guys find these pictures?

The pictures were taken by me during refurbishment/repair of a used Calypso I bought several months ago.

Forgot to address your torn boot: You say it was already torn/ripped per your previous inspection, so your u-joint has been compromised, exposed to water and detergent. It must be replaced (with the complete u-joint kit so all parts match) if you intend to repair the machine properly. If that's too much expense, don't bother going any further, especially without an intact boot.

This is the corroded u-joint I replaced, and what's included with a new u-joint kit.

My Calypso washer and dryer set sporaadically left streaks that look like rust on my clothes. This didn't start happening until after my warranty expired. I contacted Sears who told me to contact Kenmore who told me to contact Sears. I was sent info. in which to participate in the class action suit, however, I'd not called a repairman since the warranty had expired and I didn't know if a repairman would know what was causing the rust colored streaks. I didn't want to waste my money. I started turning all our clothes inside out before putting them in the washer and then sometimes the stains would still get on the edge of a collared shirt, ruining it. No rust or stain remover removed the stains. About a year after the staining begain, I noticed the dryer vent was rusted. That's on a 2-3 yr. old machine! My husband repainted the vent with a high temp. paint and I'm hoping I don't find any more rust colored streaks on our clothing. I also own a Kenmore washer and dryer set that is 13 years old which I have never had a problem with.

I recently redid my laundry room, which meant I needed a stackable front loader. I decided to free cycle my (working) Calypso washer/dryer.

I got an answer from someone who said that she would take it, but she'd heard that they are not good washers!

Can't give 'em away...but actually of course I did.

I thought I would put my experience in. I have owned this machine for over 4 years (bought in 2003) and really haven't had any problems until now. The other day the error CE started so I removed the front panel and got the circuit diagram and troubleshooting papers off of it. Did some testing of diodes and regulators and everything seemed to be good except. The only thing seemed to be wrong was the open fuse.

I read in this and other thread that if the fuse is blown you have to replace the entire board. That's a little extreme to me since th board is $150. The fuse on my board was a 3AB type fuse made by Littlefuse, 325 Series 12A 250V slow-blow ceramic fuse with axial lead. You can get this for $1.50 from electronic parts companies like Digikey, Mouser, etc. The shipping costs $30-40 if you want it overnighted so before I went ahead with this purchase I thought I'll put in a regular generic fuse just to make sure that everything else was in working order.

So I took a ride down to RadioShack and got a 15A 250V slow blow ceramic fuse p/n 270-1040 (Pkg of 4) for $3. I de-soldered the bad fuse. Since the RadioShack fuse are without leads I cut some leads off of diodes I had laying around and soldered on either side of it. Then soldered the fuse in and put it all back together.

It's been working fine. If it blows again then maybe something is drawing too much current so I'll have to look at something else like probably in the rectifier circuit or somewhere.

If you know a little electronics you can save so much money and time. There is no need to replace the board just because the fuse is blown.

Hope this helps.

I wanted to replace the fuse in my blown board but it isn't marked with a value/type and no specs are listed in the repair literature I have. I still have the old board (I hope!), so now I can give it a try.

We struggled with problems with a Calypso for at least four years. After calling, e-mailing, writing, etc., I took pictures of the rust, the signs I had posted telling me what to do when I needed to reset the machine, pictures of damaged clothes and actual damaged clothes and went back to the Outlet Store where I bought the machine. I asked for the manager and explained the problem and showed him my damaged work shirt that was one day old. The manager gave me a store credit that was less than my purchase price but adequate to get a decent machine. BTW, One Source was close to replacing my machine but balked because I bought the machine at an outlet. I have since bought two appliances from Sears because that one manager treated me fairly. It was a hard-won battle.

Bought a house and got the Calypso along with it. It started ruining the white clothes with streaks and after much searching, found all the answers on this forum. Bought the u-joint kit and outer wash plate from partstap.com and they arrived in a few days.

There was only one thing that no one has mentioned on this board, so I thought I should relay what I learned. I knew I needed a spanner wrench for the lock nut. I tried using an adjustable pin spanner, but the nut wouldn't budge and I needed to be able to hammer on it hard. to break the nut free. The adjustable just wasn't strong enough and the arm was too long to fit inside the tub.

I tried calling Partstap to find out what size spanner I needed but they never answered the phone or responded to email. I noticed that they displayed the nut on a 1" grid (http://www.partstap.com/partsearch/model.aspx?&&model_id=263714&diagram_id=114660) so I could see the approximate size was 2 1/4".

The only spanners I could find with fixed pins and short enough handles were Armstrong. I decided I needed the "face" type with two pins rather than the "pin" type with only one pin because of how corroded the nut was. No one seems to carry any selection of spanner wrenches in stores so I searched on line and found that Sears carries the whole Armstrong line in their on line store, even though they do not have them in their stores.

The wrenches come in 1/4" increments and when both the wrench and nut arrived I discovered that the 2 1/4" spanner was 1/8" too small. After a bunch more searching in local stores (by phone) and on line, I determined that no one makes a 2 3/8" spanner. So I filed 1/16" off the inside of each pin until it fit. After all that, the modified face spanner fit the nut perfectly and I was able to hammer away on the handle until the nut broke free. It took a good 30 minutes and I almost gave up, but the Armstrong spanner took the abuse with no problem.

I hope this saves someone the time and effort of figuring this out! Maybe someone else found a better solution. Of course, if the nut isn't corroded, you can probably just use an adjustable spanner.

Spanner Wrench

My calypso doesn't respond at all, I have power all the way to the plugs that connect to the back of the board ( part number 661640 ) I dont want to replace both boards if I can help. I dont know how to find cheap whirlpool parts. Is there something else to check?

You don't say if you have a Kenmore or Whirlpool machine ... but they should be the same. Look up your model number to be sure.

Power coming into the machine first flows through a "line filter" device. Number 4 on the

It's priced $14.78 at Sears PartsDirect. Check voltage into and out of it.

Next would be the machine controller board. Check for AC voltage between pins 4 & 2 at connector P16.

after reading all the posts on the kenmore elite calypso appliances....i am convinced that i need to have my purchase addressed in some way.

we bought the appliances in 2003...and from the get go, have experienced the problems expressed in the many letters written in this site....

call me a slow learner...but i never suspected it was the washer that was defective....after all i bought Sears Best...the Elite Calypso.

i have had problems from the get go...with mainly, any thing with looped threads....i have had brand new bath towels come out of the washer with its loops and the pile cut and pulled out....i have gone as far as returned the towels to the stores i purchased them from complaining about shoddy work...and got my money returned....no questions asked.

the problem continues and i suspected that perhaps there was something in the washer that had a raised metal edge or something that was pulling out the threads of my towels and rugs.....

and out of desperation i went online to question if any one had the problems i am continuing to have with my washer. and boy was i amazed at the many reports on the faults of the Calypso.

i was never notified of a class action against the makers of the calpyso...it may be too late for my problems to be addressed...but now what do i do? i have never put in a complaint to Sears on this problem, because i did not know till recently it had something to do with the making of my washer.....

any advice on what steps if any i should take?

thank you for any advice you can offer me to get this problem taken care of.

i guess my first step should be to go to Sears and notify them of my problem.

i know, i know, 5 years is a long time to finally discover that Satisfaction Guaranteed only happens if you uncover the problem with your purchase and ask for help.

Add me to the list of people who didn't realize the class action suit was going on =)

I was working in the basement yesterday when I heard a drip... drip... drip. My 2003 purchased unit was dumping water, and I being a fool never installed a FloodSaver. I won't make that mistake again.

I have the unit in pieces, and although I think I can save her, I'm going to switch to a FL.

I will try calling the various numbers this week, but I don't expect much.

My Kenmore Elite Calypso washer (2001) just quit on me today for the 4th time this year. I am on vacation this week and planned to get laundry out of the way before school starts. In my frustration with Sears, I came across this site. IS THERE STILL A CLASS ACTION SUIT AND CAN I GET IN?! Who else repairs these machines, is there a lemon law appropriate, What do you suggest for a replacement?

May 7, 2007 was the deadline for submitting a claim form.

Any servicer who handles Whirlpool (or Kenmore) should be able to work on a Calypso.

I can, but I doubt you want to cart your machine to Texas (assuming that's not where you live).

We purchased our Kenmore Elite in 2003 and have had service on it every year since. We continue to keep our Sears Maintenance agreement on the washer and they have fixed it every time. We have received a new control board, several pumps, new bearings and a month ago they said they had to rebuild the whole thing. After waiting 2 weeks for all of the parts Sears decided to replace my washer with a New Whirlpool Cabrio. Does anyone know anything about the Cabrio? We will be getting it wednesday.

My Calypso eats blankets and the softener dispenser does not work correctly. At the end of the wash cycle there is no softener in the dispenser, but the clothes have an unpleasant odor. Can anyone help??? I will ditch this machine in the next few months, but need help till then.

ManyThanks,
Island Girl

Our washer has worked okay- it was a return- guess they fixed something. It is a water efficient machine that uses very little water, but to clean the clothes is seems that they have replaced the lack of cleaning water with a more severe mechanical action (like beating clothes on a rock).
My complaint is that towels and similar "fluffy" items end up with loose threads. Thought is was cheap towells but see others have the same issue. Does anyone know how to reduce this effect?