Kenmore elite HE3T washer stinks
gzec
12 years ago
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mark40511
12 years agolivebetter
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Kenmore Elite Top Load Washer issues
Comments (10)The water leaks sometimes even with a small load. The model number of my machine is 23034. I had the same experience as listed in one of these postings, with the Sears repair man when I was under warranty, they told me it must be a 'fluke' or something. I had a guy out twice, but because the machine does not do this all the time, it is hard to diagnose, but awful for someone like me who owns the machine, because you never know when it will flood and ruins stuff as it has. If this problem is 'pump' related, they should have changed the pump just to be sure, but I didn't know this at the time I was under warranty. Sears used to have technical support, which I have used before for other problems, but recently I called the 800 number only to find I could hardly understand the customer service rep, and all they could offer was a service contract, they said they no longer have technical support. I called our local Sears parts store, and they told me the same thing. I was very dissapointed to see that Sears has downgraded customer support so badly, seems like they have 'outsourced' their customer service to other countries. I was not pleased with the response I got....See MoreLooking for a Matching Dryer to the Kenmore Elite HE3t Washer
Comments (1)This isnt it? click on the link below Here is a link that might be useful: Kenmore Elite HE3 7.0 Dryer...See MoreKenmore HE4T F/L or F/11 or F/DL error codes
Comments (114)SUCCESS!! A half hour ago I was sitting down to report failure. For the record I'll report what I did. But the punch line is: google the real problem. I was not actually having F11 or F14 codes, I was having Sud and F02 codes and it does make a difference. There's a good thread about Sud/F02 codes here. And the moral is: While writing this I just had to jump up and check on my machine because it was spinning so audibly fast. It hasn't done that in a *loooong* time. Let me tell you why: The Sud/F02 code is apparently due to a blocked outlet. On retrospect, everything points to this simple answer. I didn't add things together before hand. It's been a long time since I've heard water leaving the drum. And it hasn't spun hard in ages either. The symptoms were longer and longer for the machine to finish its cycle until finally it just failed and started throwing codes eventually. And recently water is left in the drum a little bit too (when someone else used it; I manipulated things so that didn't happen). So all this adds up to: plugged drain. The drain is located behind the bottom panel, removed with three hex screws (see link above). There's a 3" plastic plug to remove and in mine was: ripped plastic hose, broken pen parts, many, many of them (I'm going to kill my teenager), and disposable dental floss picks (I'm going to kill dh), and eraser caps (I'm going to kill my tweenager), and a really, really thick plug of grease and hair and compressed lint and other gook that was just its own unique substance. Oh my. As suggested in the link above, do have many, many towels ready to sop up much, much water that will come out. Also in my water is about 2 TB at least of heavy white grains -- maybe that's just sand -- dh is a marine biologist and teen is a jr lifeguard, spending much time on the beach. Would sand that sits in water soften? I guess not -- don't know what that stuff is. It's kind of hydrated. Practically like oats. Ycccck. And so .... the machine seems fixed. And I'm thinking now that hydrated "sand" is maybe the backing to decaying plastic-backed rugs. What did I do prior to finding the fix? I took the circuit board out again as described by so many above with such luck. I didn't note very much before and want to set it down here for the record. I encountered many, many broken plastic clips, some sitting on the wires, some in the circuit board itself. The whole white plastic housing rattled on its clips even though those three large ones weren't visibly broken. When I replaced it I fixed that back on with duck tape too. Pry the three large white tabs holding the white housing box for the circuit board up with a thin screwdriver, a little bit on one side, then the other, back to the first side. Two people might help but would need to be very light-fingered. There are plastic clips holding the circuit board to the white box. Most of mine are broken (the machine is 10 years old now). Two thin screwdrivers are needed to pry the tabback and then with the other screwdriver, gently press the board up. This must happen back and forth at a couple spots (without touching any solders obviously). The backs of all my solders looked perfect. Two of the tops of my solders looked a little dark in color. Neither of the switches looked corroded. I resoldered all the contact strips. Some looked fine but when I went to remelt the solder, I discovered there just wasn't any there at all, so I added a touch more. I sprayed all the contact strips with electronic cleaner before soldering ; don't know if that was a mistake. Almost all the clips that hold the wiring housings in place are snapped off just from time and the vibration of the machine itself. It's possible a new board housing is in order. I think that's all I wanted to remember for next time. I had some vaseline ready but decided it wasn't necessary. Given how tough it was to slip on the cracky plastic wire housings, I'm thinking that might help the clips go on more smoothly on old machines. OTOH with no exterior plastic clips left to hold the wire harnesses in place, making that too smooth a contact might allow it to wriggle free easier. After I fit it all back in place I was relieved that the machine turned on just fine, only with the same characteristic noisy sound and non-rotation of the drum - another symptom that I forgot to mention (signifying, as it turns out, that plugged drain). Immediately after starting up again the Sud code got thrown again so that's when (duh) I started to google the other codes. This thread is a wonderful repository! In sum: Sud/F02 == plugged drain, remove bottom panel and clean trap F11/F14/door lock == bad circuit contacts, resolder, clean contacts, etc. Here is a link that might be useful: Sud/F02 code fix...See MoreKenmore HE4t Mildew Problem Widespread
Comments (20)It does sound like the OP may have experienced either a design or manufacturing defect with her HE4T. The whole point of the pump is to remove water from the machine, not leave it sitting there to go moldy! However, I take issue with people who state that mold and mildew are inherent problems of FLs. I grew up with FLs in the UK; first a Philips-Whirlpool, then Hoover and finally Miele. My family never experienced problems with moldy washers, even in a house that got quite damp in the winter. Now I own an LG steamwasher (bought right after I got the house) that lives in a tiny laundry room in my garage. In fact - to even open the washer door it has to be perfectly positioned in the laundry room doorway. Following every load, I take a clean rag and wipe any excess water from the gasket and washer door. I then leave the rag to dry over the open door. I seldom use bleach (and then only a 10-20% soln.), although I do run a sanitary cycle about twice a week. I have never had any mold or mildew in my washer. This is in a house that had so many mold problems when we bought it that I joked it should be called STACHYBOTRIS. There was black mold in the laundry room, along the drywall in the garage as well as the ceiling. In fact the whole garage ceiling had to be torn down; revealing mold spores on the wooden beams. So although there is NO shortage of mold spores ready to colonize my machine this has not happened. WHY? 1) The machine is kept as clean and dry as possible between loads. 2) The door is open as much as possible, but at least 1-2" 3) I run an extra hot sanitary cycle and extra rinses at least twice a week. 4) I dilute my fabric softener and use less just enough detergent (even if DH doesn't!) 5) I keep a dehumidifier in the garage/laundry area. 6) Every time I go near the laundry I use my $6.47 temp/humidity meter from Wal-Mart (in air filter aisle) to make sure relative humidity is less than 50%. If it gets to 50% or above, I turn up the dehumidifier (I reccommend Whirlpool - I gave up on LG!). If I can keep my FL mold free in a house that was a mold hell-hole 18 months ago - I find it hard to believe ALL FLs have to suffer from mold/mildew. *This is not meant to detract from the OP, who seems to have a genuine complaint* BTW - I do think that perhaps some American FLs have excessively large door gaskets compared to European FLs. Since there seemed to be a particularly American assumption that FLs always leaked (and diesel cars are all smelly and underpowered), I wonder if the new wave of US FLs (2000-present) were deliberately designed to have bigger gaskets. This could contribute to water being trapped, but for most people a few extra steps can prevent this becoming a mold issue. And believe me - I KNOW about mold (in the kitchen, bathrooms, closets, AC ducts, garage, walls, crawlspace.......) Thank goodness for dehumidifiers and may the previous owner of my house be cursed with black mold evermore for hiding ours with paint and trim!...See Moreasolo
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