By "fill" I was referring to filling with clothes - a traditional agitator-type top loader is rougher on clothes when the water level is set for a partial fill. The vanes usually are usually largest at the bottom and will just violently shred your clothes, especially at the faster agitation speed. The worst in my experience were late-'80s and '90s Whirlpool (and related brands) that had an agitator that couldn't twist very far in either direction, and tried to make up for it by agitating very fast (most of them would automatically slow down to the "gentle" speed partway through the cycle, even if the regular or heavy-duty cycle was selected, but by then the damage was done). It was particularly bad in their apartment-size 24" wide washers, which had a small tub that didn't leave much room for the clothes to tumble; large items like pants or bed linens were particularly at risk. Other manufacturers of that era, like Maytag and Speed Queen, had a 180 to 210 degree arc to the agitation that allowed it to twist back and forth more slowly and still move water through the clothes. Actually, the only top-load washer with an impeller plate (not sure if that's the right term) I've used, an 8 year old Haier, is substantially rougher on clothes when washed or rinsed with anything but a full water fill; but the plate spins faster than most recent HE top loaders and it doesn't have a recycling waterfall or a spinning drum to help with washing so the rotating plate is the only mechanism for moving water. I'm guessing the new large-tub top loaders are more gentle.

Three possibilities come to mind. 1. Worn belt(s). The machine has two belts. One runs from the motor to the transmission, the other from motor to pump. ONLY specific Maytag-brand belts must be used, as the transmission belt functions as the machine's clutch, designed to slip during spin (not during agitate) until the basket gets up to speed. The two belts must be replaced as a pair. Easily replaced from beneath the machine, simply tip it back, slip the old belts off, new belts on. Sounds like this may not be the problem since you say spin is OK. 2. Worn or sticking motor carriage. As part of the belt-clutch design, the motor is mounted (at the left-front corner) on a spring-carriage assembly to control belt tension. If the springs are fatigued or the carriage rollers are worn or sticky from aged grease, it won't adjust itself for proper tension. A repair kit is available. The motor and carriage are accessible by removing the machine's front panel -- two screws at the lower front, then the panel lifts up/outward and unclips from the top. 3. If the machine is VERY old, the transmission oil could be thickened with age. Operation in very cold environ such an unheated basement or porch will make the sluggishness worse. This is a more major repair, but if the machine is otherwise in good condition, you may consider doing it, and the tub bearing checked and replaced if needed. These classic Maytags will run for YEARS more after a refurbishment. 4. The spin squeak may indicate the felt damper pads that cushion the support base are worn (a repair kit is available). Once they wear down completely, metal-on-metal results when the tub oscillates during spin, VERY noisy. Or 1) the brake is badly worn, needing replacement; 2) the brake needs lubing (Maytags have an "oily" brake design).

I too am glad you found something you're happy with. It's difficult sometimes to decide whether to repair, buy new, buy used or what. My confusion is that you could repair your old one for $350. Not sure if he'd credit the initial service call against that (many times they will). But the replacement was $225 + $75(delivery)+$100 install (wow! $100 to plug it in and connect two hoses? I assume they weren't even new hoses.)+ $50 disposal (another wow, that's normally included in delivery.) = $450 (not sure if you would have still tipped him so I didn't include it) for a used one of unknown condition. I think I would have opted to save the at least $100 and repair the old one at that rate and have a known machine with whatever ailment repaired. Although I probably would have just bought a new Inglis/Roper/Whirlpool or a Fisher & Paykal. Again, glad you're happy. IIRC that is one of the old "dependable care" line of Maytags so it should be a solid machine if you can get parts for it. My sister's had trouble with the agitator springs since hers was new and they got weaker and weaker so it doesn't agitate right. She can't find the parts to fix it so it's kind of a limp along with it. Otherwise it's been pretty solid. I ran into a similar dilemma with my old Maytag dryer. I don't recall what the service call was, it was expensive because it was a rush, ($175 IIRC?) or it could have been $75 had it not been the rush. Then the repair on it would have been in the hundreds. $200-$250 or so. Wish I would have just scrapped it and bought a new one which I wound up doing anyway for about $350 IIRC, delivered, installed and old one removed. Bought a Frigidaire dryer. Terrible dryer, undersized for my washer, but it did last a lot of years limping along. The good thing was that I didn't want to repair it - didn't want the thing in my house! Then it literally fell apart. I bought a new huge Whirlpool and couldn't be happier. Quieter, faster drying, much larger capacity, cost $300 and with any kind of luck it should last me for as long as I care about one.

I have this set which I purchased from Costco. At the time, I also was seriously considering the Speed Queen, but delivery was not available for weeks. http://www.costco.com/LG-Mega-Capacity-5.0CuFt-TurboWash%E2%84%A2-Washer-7.3CuFt-Steam-GAS-Dryer-with-EasyLoad%E2%84%A2-Door-in-White-|-WT5680HWA%2c-DLGX5781WE.product.100215925.html I went from a front loader back to a top loader. One of the things that I like is the ability to add a 30 minute soak before the wash begins, and I also like being able to wash my king and queen size mattress pads, which this tub handles easily.