Hello, Heat pumps originally were for areas that did not have gas or propane available. A properly designed system, will not affect the heating or cooling by using a heat pump or gas. Gas produces a hotter air always. Electric is a cooler process. Heat pumps are cooler than electric. A heat pump is cheaper to operate than resistive strips. You need electric strips or gas for aux heat. Always. Depending on what is cheaper, a dual heat system gives an option as to what utility is used. Either gas or Electric. Once again, if the system is designed properly, the method of heating will be invisible. For most home designs that have multiple stories or larger than 2000 sqft, multiple systems is the best way to design to. Very few installers know how to design multiple zones that really work, with one system. Furthermore, In Texas, My part of H*ll, It is impossible to design a system for a larger house without using multiple airhandlers, to achieve the minimum standard, and have the system work. It is impossible using equipment made today. Consider radiant heat in the floors, for your base heat, and the heatpump for cold days. The heatpump will also provide cooling. IMO, SEER is unimportant. Most higher SEER systems will never save the additional cost to upgrade, before replacement time. If your PCB fails, you will never recoup the initial expense. Furthermore, using 410 systems causes more maintenance. Expensive maintenance. F22 may not be available, but there will always be a substitute freon available. Probably long after you are dead and buried.(407) Furthermore most HVAC guys do not understand SEER. They think they do, but are incorrect. Builders know even less about SEER. Variable speed IMO is hype. It has a purpose, but as a remedial system when trying to correct high static from a fpoor design. When a variable system runs at less than full speed, the capacity of the system is reduced. If your BTU needs are 36000, then a variable speed system at 5/8 speed will never produce 36000. It may produce 20000, but never 36000. If you need 36000, then anything less will cause the system to run longer, and cost more to operate. The system will then need more repairs, because it is running too long. Pay for a manual J. Design the system using a manual D. Design the system to have unique systems for each floor. You may share the basement with the 1st floor system, if the basement is underground, otherwise use a seperate system for the basement. Consider solar water preheating (hot water & heating) with a boiler. Hot water heat will probably be a better quality heat and the solar will help reduce utility costs. Look at foam insulatipon and the savings of energy costs. Foam will pay for it's self within a few years. Use double or triple insulated windows. Seal all possible air leaks, use insulated recessed lighting when appropiate.

A ductwork system, especially in new construction with lowest cost mechanicals, is not going to be sufficient for a 3 ton unit. The variable speed blower will try to overcome some issues, and could cause more noise. If this company neglects this important aspect to the system, look elsewhere. But they are quoting you a nice system (good to see they are using the best matching indoor unit with tin-plated coil--shows they know how to match a system well at least) at a reasonable cost considering all that's involved. You still should get a couple other quotes. Don't be afraid to explore other brands besides Carrier. The Infinity system is nice, and so is the zoning, but at a lower cost you can probably achieve similar if not the same results with another manufacturer using third party controls. Carrier has a big name in the industry with their Infinity system but I think there are good comfort solutions elsewhere as well worth looking into. The Infinity zoning is it's own thing, so would need to be incorporated into the Infinity control system. If they want to charge you $2.2k that better include full testing (with static pressure measurements taken) to ensure proper airflow with minimal resistance if they think the ductwork in place is proper. The 16.5 SEER heat pump is the 25HNA6. Little different unit because it has a different compressor type, which is actually preferable for zoning apps because it uses a 50% capacity on low stage rather than around 70% with the 25HNA9. But, I dislike the fact that the compressor must "stop" to switch stages, presumably giving it more wear and tear (my opinion, not sure if anyone else feels the same way).

The parent Nortek had some issues. Westy is same as Tappan which I have. Outdoor unit rattles a bit but the stuff otherwise is fine. Mine is on a 95% furnace, dual fuel. Good warranties. Key is best installer.

If you are in Pennsylvania, think about how many days a year the temp goes below 30. Why would you want to rely on an alternate heat system kicking in when you can have one consistent system? Heat pumps are terrible ideas, IMHO. They just can't keep up. I live in Va., and there are still homes/townhouses I've seen with heat pumps. Va has mild weather, but winters can get very cold (and have gotten colder the past several years). And I'll tell you, to most people, "heat pumps" on a home sale spec sheets is not a selling point--even if it is a Trane--they are installed as cheaper options; I have never seen anything claiming they were better utility wise or environmental wise (and I just replaced my non-heat pump heater with a regular Trane heater, so it's not like I'm being cheap!). It'd be worth your time and money to get another heating company rep in for an opinion and estimate.