A reveal of sorts and question about kitchen sink splashes
boymom23
10 years ago
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boymom23
10 years agoboymom23
10 years agoRelated Discussions
To reveal or not to reveal. Can we talk undermount sinks?
Comments (7)We have 2 undermount sinks...the large Franke Pro 30" and the smaller Franke 12" prep sink. The Pro is huge, deep (you can bathe a dog in it, LOL), and has a square profile, with barely rounded corners. The prep sink is small, square, with widely rounded corners. I do think the brackets take a certain amount of space. Our 30" sink is in a 33" base cab. Your cabinet manufacturer can determine if you have sufficient space for each brand of sink you are considering. That's part of their job. Undermounting is super strong. Do not worry about a heavy turkey making the sink fall thru. A slight reveal (which is pretty standard) actually finishes the installation nicely. Gives you a smooth looking sink/counter joint. However, it does collect food and dirt over time, but is easily cleaned. For our bathroom sinks, we had no reveal. Easier to keep clean, and no place for toothepaste and shaved hairs to collect. As for depth of sink...our Pro is 11" deep, the prep is 6". Both function well for their purposes. I find I use the prep sink a lot...water doesn't splash everywhere, I use that faucet to fill saucepans (the main sink for the pasta pot), etc. I did put Insinkerators in both sinks. And at 12" wide, it's certainly large enough to use a colander. I cannot speak for the Kindred sinks...and would be loathe to buy any sink without at least seeing and touching it in person. What you want to know is the guage of the stainless steel used...thicker is better. And when you template and install your countertops, if you use granite or quartz, you have to have the sinks on hand at the job site. Your fabricator will need to take the sinks with him back to the factory...they are templated and installed there, then returned with the countertops for final installation....See MoreApron front/farm sink splash question
Comments (10)Way back in 1954 the first sink I ever washed dishes in was a farmhouse sink. I was 5 at the time and my mother "let" me do the washing up (I know now that this was a Tom Sawyer routine) after lunch as a consolation prize because my older brother and sister were going back to school and as a kindergarten student I only had a half day and couldn't go with them. Standing on a step stool and leaning against the apron front is the experience I'm going to try to replicate with our new farmhouse sink. Hard to describe but no other sink since then has had the comfort, dryness and aesthetics of that old sink. Every other sink I've ever worked at has left me soaked. Maybe someone who studies ergonomics can explain this....See Moreundermount sink, positive reveal - urgent question!
Comments (18)I think this depends on the sink, too. Ours has installation instructions that specify a negative reveal. Out of curiosity, I pulled the specs for the stainless version of the same sink (ours is fireclay, both standard undermount) and in stainless they specify a positive reveal. They're literally the same size sink, though the stainless has accessories that need the lip. Not sure why the fireclay has a negative reveal specified. We have a stainless sink w/ positive reveal now, and it does get gunky, for whatever that's worth. I don't know that it would be much better with zero or negative reveal, though......See MoreYet another code question about moving a kitchen sink
Comments (11)Hi, Pauled99, I am not sure I understood your question exactly. It may be easiest for me to try to explain it in my terms. Both vertical pipes from the basement serve the same purpose they did originally. I just crossed them left-to-right before they came up from the basement. The leftmost copper pipe, which extends vertically from the basement and makes a right-angle turn to become horizontal and enters the galvanized tee in its middle port, only vents a sink in a bathroom in the basement. Obviously, the horizontal section is well above the flood rim of the basement fixture. The right copper pipe comes up from the basement, turns 90 deg to the right to become a horizontal drain (sloped at 1/4" per foot), turns vertical, and is teed into the stub-out for the kitchen sink with a sanitary tee. Above this tee, it is now considered a vent. It then turns 45 deg (remaining a "vertical" vent), and then turns 45 deg the other way to go into the bottom port of the galvanized tee. The vertical galvanized pipe vents both the basement and kitchen fixtures. In the basement, the two downpipes are joined by a sanitary wye below the point where the bathroom fixture joins the left-hand downpipe. The single drain then goes below the basement floor to join the main (?) house sewer line. After that picture was taken, I put steel plates over the stud notches to protect the pipes from screws/nails. The plumbing inspector took a look at the work, *briefly* thought about squawking about the galvanized tee before realizing it was strictly a vent at that point, and then admired the job and gave it a thumbs-up. If this explanation is not clear, feel free to ask a follow-up question. What I learned during this process is that the plumbing codes actually make sense, even if not at first to the uninitiated. For example, as a novice, I would have turned the drain for the sink vertically instead of horizontally, and teed it into the horizontal drain line. However, that would have made the section to the right of that tee into an illegal horizontal vent. Stuff that goes down the sink could splash to the right (i.e., upstream). Since there is no water flow there to wash it down, it could get lodged there and obstruct the vent. This was not obvious to the tyro, but makes sense to me now. Again, a thousand thanks to lazypup....See Moreromy718
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