The thing about tracking hardware is that it is so expensive that for the say, 15% or so reduction you get due to sun angle you can buy enough extra panels to offset the loss, assuming you have the space. CA new title 24 states that on a new building you must provide an unobstructed roof area of 250 sq ft(no vents, chimneys, or roof penetrations). Those panels must be at least 3'below the peak to provide access for the fire dept. It pains me to say it but solar thermal is about dead in the current American market. I was in the solar and alternative energy business in CA back in the late 70's-early 80's and did hundreds of hot water and other types of solar systems. They work great, but a dhw system today is around $10,000. That money is much better spent on a PV system today. Much better return on that investment. Ground mount systems are fairly common up here in the foothills. My house is shaded by a Sequoia and a few 4' dia Black Walnuts. My only PV option will be ground mount out in the side yard or a new garage roof, I suppose, but then again I spent the garage on the house re-model;). I've seen several up here where they put the array up on a 15' or so tall post. There are, finally, initiatives underway now to establish better specification guidelines for DC power. Snidely, I think you and I would get along great in person, but boy, we sure don't agree on much here. That is in no way a critical statement, quiet the opposite in fact. I'm a fitter/welder in an early life and worked on gas lines from 1/4"-36". I am very comfortable with it, but I understand the process of pipe design and installation. I do think that as we have codes that require smoke detectors that every home should also have CO detectors and, if supplied with gas, have a combustible gas detector. I am surprised that the insurance industry hasn't pulled that off yet. I guess not enough houses/people have been lost that way. Anyway, looking forward to meeting you on the next post;)

1. A heat pump should be able to provide decent heat down to below 30 degrees (probably 20-30 degrees it would struggle). Heat pumps have electric heat as backup. You want the electric heat so you don't get cold air during defrost. If you want to use your other heating system as backup, I don't see why that would be a problem either; you would just manually turn it on and off. Is your current heating system costing you a lot of money to operate, and is this why you're looking into replacement? If so, heat pumps can provide quite a bit of energy savings. Can you post your price for gas and electric. Tigerdunes hopefully can advise you on the cost savings aspect of the decision. Ask the dealers who come for estimates about heat pumps, and see what they think about your particular case.

the lennox dealer corrected their quote as follows; 2 ton Lennox Elite Series heat pump system incliding outdoor unit model XP14-024-230 rated 15 seer, 13 eer & 9 HSPF W/A410A refridgerant. Air handler model #CBX27UH-024-230. System is equipped with 10 KW back up heat. Install a new drain pan & moisture switch. Will remove all old equipment via crane taking out existing electostatic filter and replace with new filter grilles in the existing returns which will be easier to replace on a monthly basis. Cost is now $5,975 before rebate from BGE of $400 & Feds. $1500 which also apllies to the Carrier units except Carrier has rebate of $175 for the first quote & $400 for the second if still applicable. The Carrier system comes with a 10 year warranty on all parts 1 year labor with a option to upgrade to 10 years labor for and additional $975 Lennox comes with 10 yrs compressor & 5 yrs other parts 2 yrs workmanship & matrials 1 yr free service. Which one is the better system for the money. Carrier is about $500 more if their rebate is still in effect. I didn't address the other Lennox quote because of the the higher cost.

Most new heaters claim to not need a firemans switch because of the new firebrick technology. I would preffer even a new heater went through a cooldown period. It just seems it would be hard on the heat exchanger and polymer headers. If it was my backyard, I would probably go with the 3.2kw, it can stand alone. And a dual timer with freeze, and a air switch for the blower. But I'm cheap.....lol Actually in distribution however almost all new pool equipment sets are going out with a computer and a salt system. If the board goes out after warranty, or the salt cell goes bad your looking a grand or more to repair it. For some folks, quite a few around here, that's a chunck of change. For the folks in Colleyville and Southlake [high end neighborhoods near ft worth and dallas] it's chicken feed. Repair guy, I re read my post and realized my salesman went THIS year and I am going NEXT year.....lol. We're almost out of year anyway. I don't have the dates yet. It's not carved in stone, but I'm pretty sure I will get to go.