You need one of these...

This is the 220 volt model called a Super Bee, but they also have a 110 volt called a U-Sander.

http://www.hardwoodfloorsatlanta.com/aa%20sander.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1567693}}

Thanks floor guy,

But have you ever used one on a floating floor? If so, how was the result?

Because the floor underneath is not 100% level, the concern is that the weight of the machine will push down the floor in some spots, and leave grooves...

why not just recoat it? It will get out most of the scratches and make it look new and it won't need to be 'sanded.'

I feel the U-Sander or the SuperBee, will work fine. They are slow and not aggressive. They are fool proof practically. Just don't advance too many sandpaper grit coarseness's 40-60-80 is recommended.

Have you looked into the Basic Coatings: TyKote system??

With a top layer of only 2.5mm, I would also recommend that you look at doing a screen and recoat and not sanding the floor. Of course if you have any deep scratches that actually go into the wood, you might need to do a full sanding.

Basic Coatings TyKote is a good system for doing a recoat. You can also look at products by BonaKemi.

Hope it all works out.

don't sand the floor if there is a foam underneath. if its floating over just concrete it can be done by a good floor refinishing professional. engineered resands are the most difficult floors to refinish because there is not much of a wear layer to sand without going through to the next layer of wood. if the floor flexes under the sander then it will cause the sander to eat throught the wear layer and will result in replacing that board.

hardwood floors floating over a foam underlayment cannot be sanded. the floor sander will eat through the wear layer of the engineered wood if the floor flexes. if it is floating only over concrete then it can be sanded by a good refinishing professional.

I'd ask still for a price on a screen and recoat from someone else. If you have a few boards with deep scratches do a board replacement on just those boards. You most likely have an aluminum oxide finish of the factory finished and the site applied finish will not be as durable. If you can recoat you will be adding finish on top of a good factory finish. Either way you will get great looking floor, but if you can avoid the mess of resanding I'd choose that option.

I'm also thinking of refinishing my floating engineered wood floor (on concrete) in order to change the color. Has anyone heard of doing this and then applying an oil-based finishing topcoat? No reason I shouldn't be able to, right?

If the installer put the scratches in then I would have them pay for the fix. That is the reason that they should have liability insurance.

I’m looking into refurbishing my floating floor and would like to know how hour yours turned of out