We installed allure trafficmaster in our new addition (280 sq ft) exactly 1 month ago and are pleased so far. This was directly on the subfloor and was in the boxes for 2 weeks acclimating in the room before laying down. "Country pine" stick planks are fairly easy to lay but do be sure to keep dust and particles away from the glue strips while laying down and clean the subfloor beforehand. We used a small hand roller to seal the glue strips as they were laid down. No peeling up or loose ends are evident yet. This is over a crawlspace (not a slab). So far so good for our experience. Thanks too for the tip on the scuffs, we were careful while laying down but my tennis shoe (tips) would make marks as I was on my knees turning around while my shoe tips streaked a few semi-circles on a few spots behind me.

It will NOT look stupid. There are vinyl plank floors that imitate the real thing so well, that you have to get down on your hands and knees to discover it's not the real thing. You want to use a cementious skim coat floor filler to make for a smooth and flush substrate. Most of these have the binder incorporated in the powdered formulation, so there is no need to add a binder or a primer with any of those. But...read the product labels to know what you're buying and what performance you can expect. Of course, if the fillers available to you suggest adding a liquid binder or using a primer, then do that. A trowellable skim coat floor filler is done with a smooth edge trowel in several passes. After the first coat is set enough to walk on, it should be ready for another coat. Remember, a smooth and flush result is what you want to achieve. After the floor is absolutely smooth, then install your vinyl plank using the recommended adhesive.

My parents downsized for the 4th time and their latest house has LVP. It looks nice in their house and they picked a medium brown tone, so not a trendy color. Their last 2 houses had tile and houses before that had hardwood. I built last year and installed engineered wood floors through most of the house. I kept an open mind and did take a look at LVP when doing my research, but I didn't like the look and my DH hated how they sounded when he walked on large sample areas installed in the flooring showrooms. These days you are seeing the LVP being installed in higher end homes here in FL and buyers seem to accept it just fine, specially closer to the beaches. A couple of years ago I had started seeing the ceramic core floors with a wood veneer in Los Angeles, specially for mid/high end flips.

OK...I'm sure these guys believe what they are saying...but they are discussing FLOATING FLOORING. That is sitting on HDF (fibre board). The WATER PROOF stuff is 100% cork. It is 4mm - 8mm thick. There is nothing but cork...cork...and then some cork. Nothing in the middle. When people say that cork isn't good with water, I always ask them: What is in wine bottles? Cork. What is the material that kept the Titanic's Champagne 'sweat' (ie. now salt water intrusion)? Cork. I'm not kidding. Google the sale of Titanic Champagne. It exists...and so does the CORK that kept the sea water out (at 3800m = 12,000 feet). Cork is glued down to the subfloor. It is butted tightly together. Then a polyurethane is applied over top = water proof. You can spill GALLONS of water on the floor and it will sit there. The cork does nothing. It doesn't care. So long as the water does NOT reach the walls or the cabinets you are fine. This is IDENTICAL to stone. This is identical to porcelain. So long as the water does NOT reach the walls, you are fine. Just suck up the water and go. Cork is the same. Whosoever 'poo poos' cork's water proof properties does not know the REAL cork flooring. The CLICK together stuff is a different animal and it needs to be TREATED as such. I can get a floating cork floor in a kitchen. No problem. How? Because I know what I'm doing and I know what I'm dealing with. Am I an installer? Nope. Just a sales chic! But I've done it, personally, on several occasions. I can also install a decent glue down cork tile in a BATHROOM. Yep. Baths, kitchens and entranceways = super happy places for glue down cork tiles. But cork is expensive and takes +++ MONEY to install (if it is glue down). So the cork industry tries to make it easier to install....but the SALES people (and many installers) fail to understand the product and they FAIL to follow installation/maintenance instructions. I can get the softest wood floor (cork) to be water proof (glue down tile) and to be the toughest floor you will ever meet (Loba 2K Supra AT applied x 2 coats after installation). But then again, I know what I'm doing; I know what I'm working with and I UNDERSTAND what cork is. I think you would be hard pressed to find the same with the Gents in the video. As for resale, the EXPENSIVE cork glue down tiles = as valuable as marble flooring. Nope. Not kidding. But then again, I understand cork.