"Goof Off" will remove the latex paint without damaging your flooring. Any hardware store has it. Do NOT wax your floors if you have polyurethaned them. It will not work, and you will have a terrible time cleaning it off when you need to re-coat the flooring.

I always swiffer first to get up any dirt and debris, and then use Bona to wash it. Makes it nice and clean and shiny. I bought the cleaning product and the mop on their online store. When cleaning, I just turn on all the lights (so I can see the light hitting any dirty spots) and hit any special dirty spots with the spray a few minutes before cleaning (so it can soak). Then I spray a 4 foot square and mop it up, spray a 4 foot square and mop, and so on. The dirty "stuck-on" places that I had previously sprayed come up easily -- no bending, scrubbing, or effort required.

Anything that says "multisurface" is not good enough for wood. I can guarantee it. And these "natural cleaners" are AAAAAALLLLLL oil-based cleaners. https://www.mrsmeyers.ca/basil-multi-surface-concentrate/ Notice the ingredients list: I count 6 oils in the ingredients (a "surfactant" comes from oil). The main ingredient = coconut oil. So I'm correct in saying this is a VERY expensive version of "Murphy's Oil soap" ... it just has plenty of pretty smell. That's the only difference. Both will destroy your hardwood in the same way. The basic maintenance for hardwood floors finished in polyurethane: I recommend purchasing 2 microfibre mops; 1 for 'damp' and 1 for 'dry' cleaning: 1. Sweep or dry dust mop (or vacuum without the beater-bar) 2-3 times per week 2. Water-damp mop (slightly damp = almost dry) once per week (no cleaner) 3. pH Neutral hardwood floor cleaner used 1-2 per MONTH (in lieu of damp mop) These pH neutral cleaners are made up MOSTLY of alcohol. They will clearly state on the label "does not leave a residue". The chemicals present in these formulas are MUCH LESS than the chemicals in your current cleaner. I would speak with your flooring professional to find out the BRAND of the oil based polyurethane (which has HUGE amounts of chemicals = ++++off gassing) to find out if the brand of finish has a recommended cleaning product (some do....but not all). Companies like Armstrong and Bruce create their own pH neutral hardwood floor cleaners for their hardwoods. They are quite safe for hardwoods and for air quality in the home. If you don't like the over-the counter stuff, stick with water...you will be just fine.

The best DESIGN option = same tile throughout. The sad thing is the tile may no longer be available. Now you are into some weird design elements that no one explained at the time you installed the wood-look tile. In essence you have "wet" areas that are covered in "wood". You are now looking at having to put traditional looking tile or stone in the living areas normally reserved for wood. This is Bass Akwards in the eyes of many (myself included). Personally, being a cork flooring expert, I would replace carpet with cork floating flooring. It is soft and quiet and is NOT wood looking. But I know cork and I know how to live with its eccentricities. I'm 1% of the population. The other 99% can't handle cork. In an ideal world, you would have used a stone look tile in the kitchen areas and a wood-look tile for the rest of the house because that's traditionally where you would put wood. I would check to see if you can find the original wood-look tile. Be aware you will have issues with colour - assuming you can find the same product. Photos of what you are dealing with could help us.