You are at least 3 months late in asking for help. Whenever you seeded bermuda was far too early...because NOW is the time to put out bermuda seed. The soil has to be hot to get good bermuda germination. If you seeded in March or April you jumped the gun by that many months. Rototilling should be avoided at all costs for any lawn, but especially for a bermuda lawn. Why? For the very issue you are seeing now with your feet sinking in. This fluffy soil will continue to settle for the next 3 years. All you can do now is try to rearrange the high spots to fill the low spots. Don't add more soil. That causes other headaches. Using a roller might help some, but the soil will continue to settle and become bumpier for years. Why is it worse for bermuda? Because bermuda becomes the most dense when mowed low to the ground. If you have holes and hills in the soil, the mower's wheels will fall into the holes and scalp the grass down to the soil in those spots. A grass that grows best when mowed high, St Augustine for example, doesn't look scalped even when you hit a hole. Mixing bermuda sod with seeded bermuda is another issue to avoid. You already seeded it. Some of that will grow and eventually cover everything. Seeing as it's finally hot enough, it should start spreading quickly. It is not too late to change to St Augustine. A few pieces of sod will spread to cover just like the bermuda does. St Augustine is less tenacious and less aggressive than bermuda, but it will stomp all over what bermuda you have and choke it out. Contrary to popular opinion, St Augustine does not take more water than bermuda. All lawns take a similar amount of water to look nice. The main difference with bermuda is that it will come back from the dead whereas St Aug can die out from total lack of water over a period of months. Fortunately the Houston area does not have that problem. Bermuda can take almost any amount of high nitrogen fertilizer as long as you water it down immediately after application. If you wait until the next day, the morning dew will have dissolved the fertilizer into a very salty brine which can burn the blades. Washing it down with a hose dilutes it to a much less salty brine and washes it down into the soil. I could write essays about the misinformation you have received on this thread. In fact I have, over the years, written such essays. Here are the basics of the Bermuda Bible. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means 1 inch all at one time. Living in Houston this is already taken care of. Infrequently means no more than once a week in the hottest heat of summer. Again, Houston takes care of all your watering needs. I live in Bandera, TX and have not watered my front lawn (St Augustine) yet this year. We got an inch of rain last night, so I'm good for at least a week and maybe two. Mulch mow at the mower's lowest setting at least once a week and preferably 2-3x per week. Fertilize with a high N, fast release once a month during the growing season. You can, of course, fertilize less often, but the grass will tend to thin out and become more lime green rather than dark green. I always suggest that at least one of these applications be an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizers keep your soil healthy along with the lawn. Use herbicide in mid April and late September. If you changed to St Augustine, the same watering method works. Mow at the highest setting no more than once a week. I try to go 2 weeks. And with St Aug you only fertilize in late May, September, and around Thanksgiving. It's a lot less hassle than bermuda.

@tryingtounderstand If you want to be safe, pick a color as close to the lightest tones in your quartz as you can find, so some version of a white. Ceilings can often be a shade lighter than walls without too much problem if you pick the standard "ceiling white" and walls are fairly close to it in hue. Be aware, however, that a pure white can turn gray on you if you have a lot of shadows in an area. You might want to put a touch of beige or hint of green back into the color to keep the white from leaning gray. You have so many other colors going on in your new kitchen that I would be hesitant to take you in much more of a color direction than that for fear of making it clash. It sounds like you've already selected your other finishes, but if I may suggest to not have the cherry wood stained, I think you might want to consider that option. I'm getting cherry cabinetry for my own kitchen renovation, and I can tell you it's not considered a "modern" wood right now for kitchens. Hardly anyone is really using it in substantial numbers, and I've heard that over and over again from many suppliers. However, I like the look and the properties of cherry wood and so am going that direction. Cherry is one of the higher-end woods that looks pretty with just a clear top coat. It will also darken in time. If your manufacturer is discouraging you from a clear top coat on cherry, it could be because they know they won't be color and grain matching your wood very well and thus may want to throw a dark stain on everything to disguise it. Your shadowy weather days won't be counteracted too much by putting such dark wood in your large kitchen. Compared to your old kitchen, the new one will seem darker even though you have a light counter. Even if you were to do cherry wood with a clear top coat, I am thinking you may be unhappy in time with the look of oak floors next to cherry wood cabinets. It might work, but then again, I'm not sure you'll be truly happy with it. Just take some extra time to be sure of these decisions and look up photos on Houzz or Pinterest to see if you can find all those finishes together in one kitchen for inspiration ideas. It sounds like you'll be putting a lot of expense into this work, so we want to make sure you're happy when it is all finished.

1. A deep tub is impractical for a tub/shower combo, unless it is used primarily as a tub. 2. 12x24 tiles on floor will work, provided they are not slippery when wet. In one bathroom, my 12x24 floor tiles were stacked; in the other; they were set 1/3 offset. 3. If using marble-like floor tiles, either use the same pattern on the walls or use a tile with little or no color variation; I used marble-like wall tiles with a boring white floor tile; wall tile can be glossy with matte finish on the floor. Typically, white subway tile is used on the walls when choosing marble-like floor tile -- this is a traditional look. 4. There are many marble-like e-stone countertop options, but none will match exactly to the porcelain tiles; I gave up and chose Caesarstone Blizzard for the countertops in my master bathroom. I have been planning the renovation of my third bathroom. Initially, I was considering marble-look porcelain flooring, but I am reconsidering whether I want the floor to be the "star" of the room, since I tend to cover up the floor with bathmats.

@Kathy Harrington No one with the HOA was ever given a proposal with the driveway aprons combined like this into one large one. To be fair, this neighbor has done a few, less in your face things, without asking and the HOA has not done anything about it so "why not try one more thing and see if the HOA cares" might have been thought. I don't know. I've reached out to them, but they have not replied yet. We knew they were going to be close and that they might have to touch near the road, but not all the way down the apron. That was never proposed to the HOA or to me. It was a surprise for me when I came home from vacation. Concrete was still wet then. I couldn't get in the driveway or see what was under what was covering it. I had agreed to pay the concrete man to re-pour my apron and lift it where it was sunken. I was never asked if I wanted anything like this. That would have been a fast no. When I came home and saw the concrete man I told him then that the HOA would never allow this. He said he would come back if needed.