It could work out that way. For the blade adapter, put some penetrant on it and let it sit overnight. Strike the flat near the corner as if trying to spin it on the crank - it should come off. If not, take a propane torch and quickly heat the adapter but not the crank and hit it again. It's not an interference fit - it's just rusted on to the 45 degree bevel on the end of the crank. Then you can remove the muffler cover and baffle, followed by the muffler plate. This gives access to the lower seal. Before removing the old seal, take a strip of emery cloth and lightly shine up the crankshaft, removing the rust and buildup. Wipe it down with a clean oily cloth to remove any dirt or grit. Remove the old seal. Clean the seal area with a Q-Tip. Slide the new seal up the crank and press it into place. This might require the use of a piece of PVC pipe cut off square with a tubing cutter to slip over the crank and evenly seat the seal. To test lower bearing wear, grab the crankshaft and push/pull it to get a feel for the vertical play. Then, with the blade on tightly, push down on one end of the blade while pulling up on the other. Rock it back and forth to see how much side play there is in the bearing. There is always a little play because they are roller bearings, but you should see no more than about 1/16" at the blade end, and about the same vertical play. After thinking about it some more, I'm still not convinced that most of your trouble isn't with a dirty carb. From my experience and what I read here, most of them will run with a bad seal but just won't develop full power. Your symptoms sound like no gas getting through the carb.

"The last time it acted up i checked and had the 24 volts coming from the thermostat to the board but no voltage from the board to the contactor which is what made me think a pressure switch may be locking the voltage out" I want to be clear about something... When you say "the board", do you mean the control board that sits inside your furnace\blower? If so, that's what I mean as well. That board does a lot of things (including the timed shut-off delay mentioned below) but as far as I know, all it does to turn the condenser unit on or off is sent 24 volts over two lines to the unit, specifically the contactor within the unit. There certainly may be more complicated control systems out there but that's the way traditional A\C systems were set up. In such systems, the control board has absolutely no idea of what any "pressure switch" inside the condenser unit is doing, no idea of whether you have no coolant in the lines, no idea of any sort of problem or situation that might exist within the condensing unit. When that control board wants to turn on the condenser unit, it simply sends 24 volts down those little wires. If you turn your thermostat down far enough to signal that you want the room cooler, the thermostat sends a signal to the control board in the furnace, which then turns the blower on by the coils, and then sends the 24 volts to the condensing unit. If in fact you have "no voltage from the board to the contactor" despite you adjusting the thermostat to start the cooling cycle, then your first concern would be to understand why the board or the wires from the board aren't working properly. If, on the other hand, you mean some sort of control board within the condenser unit itself, one that acts as a second brain (third if you count the thermostat) in the system and takes into account information from within the condenser such as high and low pressure readings before sending the 24 volts along to the contactor, then sure, you might well have an issue with that particular board or the pressure sensors or perhaps a whole bunch of things. Don't know. What I do know is that if you are indeed talking about this sort of internal control within the condenser itself and when you think it should be triggering the contactor but you can't detect any juice between the internal board and the contactor, then your problem isn't the contactor. The only way you can determine whether a contactor is bad is to send 24 volts to it. If you do that but the 220 volt lines within the unit aren't energized, then it's the contactor and indeed, because contactor issues can be all about carbon buildup on the contacts, you might have the symptoms you describe. But if the contactor isn't getting the 24 volts at all, you need to look for another answer. I strongly suggest that you turn this over to a repair tech given that you're no longer talking about replacing a $12 contactor in 15 minutes. Nick in Palm Springs

I know it's been a while since you posted this, so you've probably already done the job (or not) but we did what you're talking about....moved it around to the side of our house to add a patio. Total move was about 12 feet to the east and another 10 feet (around the corner of the house) to the north. Charge was $200 and the HVAC guy put it on a new base, and ran the wiring/hoses out the side of the house instead of to the back. This was about 5 years ago. A BIG benefit was that we found it much more energy efficient having only morning sun on the unit rather than all the sun it got in the back yard facing south!

It was indeed stolen. The property was bank owned and they had to get it to a habitable state to sell to regular homebuyers so installed a new one. The problem is the contractor installed a brand new air handler, thermostat and condenser onto an existing drain line and lineset. The AC apparently worked while being tested and was then left as a completed job. I bought the house and started the rehab. Straight away it kept cutting out or blowing warm air. It turns out the drain line was clogged which stopped condensation draining so a float switch kept cutting out (this took a couple of visits and a new float switchto figure out). But there also seems to have been a second problem with the line set, as whatever work is done (so far a new float switch, new second condenser, a new second compressor, a new evaporation coil...) it hasn't fixed the problem of the ac running and running and blowing warm air. My question is, am I expected to pay for a new lineset if he installs one as another attempt to fix this 4 month problem? So far it has all been under warranty.