2 words wood stove. I had a similar setup in my old house. kerosene heater made it tolerable in the winter but you were still cold. Looked around and found a used small wood stove. Got all the piping for around 150 bucks from Lowes or HD. Wood was free just had to go cut it. It could be 20 outside. I would be in the garage working in a t shirt and be sweating. It was also not insulated. you have to be aware that kerosene heaters use a good bit of O2 in the room. As well as exhausted CO2 into the air. Wood stove is a much safer bet if you work in there for any length of time.

Hi, The door is closed and when I hit the wall or hand held opener control it makes noise as if it wants to work. After further inspection I noticed the "shaft" attached to the top of the opener is trying to turn, but in the close position direction (I think turning left). I have an identical opener that still works and verified the correct "open" direction is the opposite way for the shaft to be turning when closed to open (I think right, clockwise). I used a screwdriver touching both the working andd non working shaft to determine the direction it tries to turn. I hope this information is enough for you to provide guidence on repairing it. Thanks again. Tim

Code for horizontal vent runs of a power vented heater (non-condensing) is category 3 venting. Single or double wall are acceptable as long as you follow the vent manufacturer's guidelines. Had to do this recently for a Mr. heater Big Maxx unit. I ended up getting this category 3 vent kit because the Mr. heater one was too expensive.

All useful and helpful so far. Further details, if it matters: Garage is a 900 sqft attached garage, with sheetrocked, uninsulated, 2X6 walls, double-sheetrocked ceiling with no insulation. and insulated doors. Heater has a steel hanging bracket that you bolt to the ceiling joists. Minimum distance from any wall is 6” and bracket provides automatic spacing from ceiling. The breaker box is on a wall about 6‘ from the location of the heater and I was planning for the cable to go about 18” from the back of the heater through an armored jacket until I got to the wall, and then bring the wire up through the wall cavity to the open and accessible attic, and finally back down through the wall cavity to the breaker box. I already have a 30 amp, double pole breaker, and two free slots. I’m in the Pacific NW, so the climate is mild. Would only be using the heater on winter days when the temps outside are in the mid-40’s F down to possibly the mid-20’s. The inside of the garage on the coldest days never gets worse than the high 30’s. I just want to be comfortable doing woodworking.