It is right by the shower. The shower is not leaking in any way. I think it is just where the former owners would exit the shower and whatever drips came off of them and were left on the floor make it right to the same spot. So im hoping by raising that area again that the water would pool away from the wall if left on the floor for any reason. Its not that I make a habit of leaving large amounts of water on the floor. I also thought of putting a bath matt at the shower entrance. But just in case the kids run out of the pool and leave water all over the floor (not like that would ever happen LOL) I would like to try and prevent it now while the tiles are being redone. One more thing it is a concrete subfloor. Thanks, Robert Robert

First of all, you still haven't specified whether your floor is "not flat" or "not level." Whatever else you have (or have not) done to get where you are, it would help a lot if you could say whether your problem is level or flat. Also, just to be sure here, if I am understanding you correctly, you installed the 2x4s ACROSS the 2x6s that make up the underside of the house? (Notice the very very NON-technical terms...so be aware that I'm not a builder or knowledgeable in this stuff like some of these people that post here...just sympathetic to rising note of panic in your posts....) The only reason I'm trying to clarify that is because I am wondering whether you installed the 2x4s "upright" (so the "4" dimension is vertical) or "laying down". I'm not trying to pile on to what you have *already* done, but I don't know what the proper distance for SPANNING that 2x4s have, and I don't know whether they can span two full feet if they are flat. This makes a difference because you want to install tile. If your subfloor is bouncy or bends ("deflects" I think is it), then all the tile you install will just crack and plague you and your heirs until the end of time...until you rip the whole floor and subfloor out again and re-do it. Or put in linoleum. Whichever comes first. You say in the top post that the cracks are like 1/4", but in your last post you write that they are up to 1". That's a big difference? Which is it? Does it vary from 1/4"-1"? Have you actually measure or are just eyeballing or going from memory? IF YOUR CRACKS ARE VERY SMALL: IF it were me (and it isn't), I'd probably just put down a very tight layer of Wedi board (thinset and screws/washers), seal the seams so it can hold the next layer, then put down a thin layer of self-leveling compound (though you still haven't said whether your floor is wavy or slanted), and then tile. IF YOUR CRACKS ARE 3/4'-1": Maybe use a layer of plywood (which would be cheaper but harder to cut), maybe tape and thinset the seams (ask someone on this board about this because I'm just brainstorming here), then use the SLC, then the tile. Only plywood will actually help form a floor (which I think you need to do with 1" gaps), not backerboard of any kind. Instead of Wedi, you could use probably any backer board (ask someone here what to do for the seams). But I only know about Wedi because that is what we went with, and I like it because it is light weight (good if you are a female working alone). I don't think your solution is in one step. It feels like you are going to have to create a tight subfloor, THEN level or flatten. I think you have a non-standard thing going on there, and that might not be addressed so easily with just one step before tile. One more thing, just out of curiousity, WHY do you think your floor must be level? Oh yeah, and I would start making your peace with a threshold. Given how non-standard your set-up is, AND the fact that this is DIY (or at least the subfloor), I'm not sure it is realistic to think you can get away with no threshold.

If they are 9" square tiles laid in the 60s, then they most likely have asbestos. You have done the right thing to leave the rest and seal them off with the paint. If the differences in height of the bumps and dips in the floor are small, like 1/8" or less, then you probably don't need to worry much about putting thick hardwood over it. If you were laying new vinyl over that, then you would definitely have to pour leveler or cover it with plywood. But new wood flooring should cover the roughness just fine without you being able to detect it after. If the bumps are bigger, then leveler might be a good idea. It's not hard to do. Mix a 25 lb bag at a time in a 5 gallon bucket with a mortar mix blade in a high power drill (weak drills burn out). Pour. Mix another. Be sure to get the kind that is soupy when mixed. There's another kind that you have to trowel on and that's a pain in the neck to use. The soupy kind is fun and results in a perfectly smooth surface.

We have both. We did a raised hearth in our living room. A wood burning fireplace, not gas. Did the raised for a few reasons. Although the fireplace opening is fairly large, I wanted it raised for sight lines. I wanted it raised for the same reason Weedy wrote, that it actually does provide additional seating when needed. The raised hearth also makes access easier for me when tending the wood fire. My kids were young, 3 and 5 years old, when we built this house. Though the hearth could be considered to be a hazard of some sort, it also acts as a "stopper" or sorts, keeping the kids from running around right in front of the fireplace opening. My kids loved the raised hearth; sitting and watching the fires, warming themselves, etc. In wintertime it was one of their favorite spots for sitting and reading. There are differences between gas and wood fires, so your priorities may vary. Upstairs in our master bedroom suite I have the firebox raised off the floor, maybe 12" or so...but instead of raising the hearth too, I built the hearth itself flush with the floor. Up there I didn't want a raised hearth at shin level when someone was moving around in the darkness. We wouldn't ever use a raised hearth up there for sitting, we have a couple of reading chairs set around the fireplace. Though the room is generously sized, I didn't want the raised hearth projecting into the room. Raising the fireplace box itself still gives nice sight lines of the fire from throughout the bedroom area, even when in the shower or tub in the master bath, and the "flush with the floor hearth" preserves some square footage. So for us it was two different rooms, two different sets of priorities. And do realize your kids will be young and reckless for how long? Whereas the hearth will be raised or flush forever.