Bad reviews: BuildDirect, LL, Home Depot Where do I Buy Hardwood?
11 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (25)
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
Related Discussions
How to Clean Very Old Unfinished Hardwoods in BAD shape!
Comments (5)Jennifer - If the foundation problems have been solved, your floor should be OK to work on. If the foundation issues have not been fixed, don't spend a penny on anything until they are. They have all kinds of dirt, grime, dust and yucky stuff on them. I've worked on floors that I had to scrub with a commercial floor scrubber and detergent to see what the species of the wood was. It's going to be a multi-step process, much of it done on hands and knees, so get knee pads. You will end up with a floor that is clearly old, but one that is clean and looks like it's a 90-year old floor that has been well-cared for. If you want all spiffy and brand new, you'll need to have new flooring installed. STEP ONE - Scrub the heck out of the floor with a floor scrubbing machine that has stiff brushes. Wipe up the dirty water and grunge with old bath towels or those white terry shop towels and scrub until nothing much is coming off. Wash the towels, you still need them. The best machine for you is probably the smaller floor scrubber/polisher ones with two revolving brush heads - they are easier to control. Make sure they have scrubbing brush heads as well as polishing heads. Let it dry. What is left is not water soluble, so you go to solvents. STEP TWO - Get some odorless mineral spirits, a couple of bags of medium steel wool, a good 5-in-one painter's tool (the scraper, can opener, etc. combo tool), and a tack removal tool. OPEN THE WINDOWS! DO NOT SMOKE! Wear GLOVES (it's not terribly toxic, but it's a skin irritant to many people) Starting in one corner, work along a strip of boards, dipping the steel wool into the mineral spirits and scrubbing with the grain ... use the scraper as needed to remove the crusty gunk. Wipe the boards with the towels as you go. NOTE: The color of the wet boards is very close to the color they will have with a clear topcoat. If you find staples, tacks or stuff, remove them as you go so you are leaving a clean surface behind you. NOTE: If you drop the towels from this step into a tub of soapy water, you can wring them out, wash them and keep reusing them. What you should have now is a floor that is free of dirt and grime. It may still have some patches of the old finish, but don't worry. STEP THREE - Sanding and staining. Evaluate the color and the surface ... Color: it's normal for older floors to have color variations. You can easily lower the contrast in the colors if you want by using a stain that is close to the middle of the colors you see. You can go a couple of shades darker, but you can't go lighter without heavy sanding. It's easy to go redder, hard to get rid of red. Species: what kind of wood is it? (it matters for staining) Surface: Decide what to do about any stains and scars that remain. I consider them part of the history of the house ... the india ink spatters where the architect who lived in one house had his work table, the square traces of the old radio battery, the wheel marks from an old table or chair ... it's patina. Clean them up as best you can, but don't stress over it. Think of all those people paying premium for salvaged wood that looks beat up ... you have it already. Fill any large holes and cracks with a filler that matches the boards. the so-called "stainable" fillers will seldom stain anywhere near the color of the wood you filled. Let these dry. Sanding: To get the finish to stick, you have to sand the floor, but you can sand lightly by hand. Buy the BIGGEST rectangular hand sander you can - 1/3 or 1/2-sheet orbital rectangular sander (expensive, but try Craigslist or pawn shops) and several big packs of 80, 100 or 120-grit paper. Sand lightly with the grain, wall to wall, then clean up the dust with a vacuum and wiping with a cloth dampened in mineral spirits. Your objective is to sand off just a tiny bit of the surface, not "get down to bare wood". It's often called "scuff-sanding, because you are scuffing the surface to get better adhesion. If you stain, do it by the "wipe on" method, where you dip a cloth in the stain and wipe on layers until you like the tone. Trying to apply it and wipe it off to the right tone takes too much practice. Matching the medium tones in the floor is least likely to give you problems. Also make sure the stain is compatible with your planned topcoat. Apply the final finish: any floor topcoat you prefer, following the package directions. If you can find a topcoat that is easy to recoat and fix scratches on, use it - matte instead of shiny hides flaws best. Remember that even "clear" polyurethanes tend to add a yellow tone - water-based ones dry with less of a color change. ============== The pictures are of a bath I recently did. I would have preferred to keep the old oak flooring, but it had water damage, and it was harder to replace just the damaged boards than to remove them all and install new flooring of that style. The room was too small and patching wasn't going to work. The pine floor was laid down in the 1890s. ============ This is the hallway ... haven't done anything to it yet, but it's fixable. I'll follow the process above for cleaning and finishing. Here is a link that might be useful: What can be done to craptastic floors!...See MoreKEMPAS hardwood flooring - the good, the bad and anything else?
Comments (33)I had a kempas floor installed in the dining room and foyer in my newly built home in 2007. It still looks GORGEOUS. I only use warm water and a microfiber mop to clean and it looks amazing. The color is so rich and complements my warm golden yellow walls beautifully. I have not experienced any issues that the above responses have thank god. That being said, about a year after I moved in I ran into a fiend whom apparently knew one of the installers. She asked me how I liked my floor. I, of course, raved about it. She then went on to say that the installer HATED IT. They had to purchase extra due to the splitting that occurred when they were nailing it. This was news to me. The installer did a wonderful job despite his frustration and the floor has performed beautifully....See MoreShould I buy hardwood floor from local store?
Comments (22)Buying locally gives you a point of presence for any ongoing issues you may have from either the product or its installation. Having a relationship with a well regarded store may help with the manufacturer. Also, the local store probably knows the best installers in the area. Did you go to the local stores to see the flooring you like or did you pick everything from the online pictures from online retailers? If you use the local stores as a hands on experience to actually see the merchandise but then buy online, haven't you effectively stolen their service the store has provided? The retail stores physically have the merchandise and can provide a service that the online stores cannot. Isn't that worth paying for?...See MoreHardwood Mirage or Mercier Reviews
Comments (25)I have Mercier, the floors are now 7+ tears old and they are doing great. I regularly get compliments from visitors and neighbors how nice the floors look. One important thing I have done consistently for the entire time is follow Mercier’s cleaning and maintenance instructions, pretty much exactly, which you find in a PDF file on their website. I’ve even sought out and use Mercier brand cleaning solution, which is for their no VOC finishes. Tip: get one spray bottle then get the 1 gallon refill jugs. I also got a vacuum brush head attachment this is soft and intended to not scratch hardwood finishes. Tip #2, I’d follow the manufacturers written/documented/published cleaning instructions before and no matter what an installer tells you to do. The species is American Cherry, which I don’t see as an option with Mercier any more, nor with other peer brands. I have both hardwood and engineered, the engineered was specifically needed in one section that had concrete substrate. I wanted both the engineered and hardwood to look the same and that is what, 7 years ago, set Mercier apart. They were able to supply the grade and finish in one species in both hardwood and engineered. I was skeptical at first but there’s no difference to this day, including in the cherry maturation....See MoreRelated Professionals
Cedarburg Flooring Contractors · Manteca Flooring Contractors · Marlborough Flooring Contractors · Panama City Beach Flooring Contractors · San Carlos Flooring Contractors · Santa Cruz Flooring Contractors · St. Louis Flooring Contractors · Santa Paula Tile and Stone Contractors · Cheney General Contractors · Ken Caryl General Contractors · Las Cruces General Contractors · North Smithfield General Contractors · Palestine General Contractors · Springfield General Contractors · Syosset General Contractors- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years ago
- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
Related Stories

REMODELING GUIDESWhere to Splurge, Where to Save in Your Remodel
Learn how to balance your budget and set priorities to get the home features you want with the least compromise
Full Story
HOUZZ TOURSMy Houzz: From Train Depot to Family Home in Texas
Sleeping in a train station isn't normally an enviable affair — unless it's a remodeled 4-bedroom beauty filled with family heirlooms
Full Story
KITCHEN DESIGNA Cook’s 6 Tips for Buying Kitchen Appliances
An avid home chef answers tricky questions about choosing the right oven, stovetop, vent hood and more
Full Story
HOME TECHHome Tech: Where Is My Robot Housekeeper?
We haven't mastered the all-purpose humanoid house cleaner, but these gadgets make quick work of chores
Full Story
ARCHITECTUREThink Like an Architect: How to Pass a Design Review
Up the chances a review board will approve your design with these time-tested strategies from an architect
Full Story
FURNITUREHow to Buy a Quality Sofa That Will Last
Learn about foam versus feathers, seat depth, springs, fabric and more for a couch that will work for years to come
Full Story
MOVINGHome-Buying Checklist: 20 Things to Consider Beyond the Inspection
Quality of life is just as important as construction quality. Learn what to look for at open houses to ensure comfort in your new home
Full Story
KITCHEN WORKBOOK8 Kitchen Amenities You'll Really Wish You Had
Keep kitchen mayhem and muck to a minimum with these terrific organizers and other time-saving, mess-preventing features
Full Story
MOST POPULARThe Most Incredible Kids' Tree House You'll Ever See?
Duck your head to enter this unforgettable Dallas wonderwork, lovingly crafted with imaginative delights
Full StorySponsored
Fairfax County's Specialized, Comprehensive Renovations Firm
orangele