Titebond II water-resistant or Titebond III water-proof ?
susanlynn2012
14 years ago
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floorguy
14 years agosusanlynn2012
14 years agoRelated Discussions
sphere making instructions
Comments (30)Any size inflatable ball, Make sure the ball is fully inflated so there is no give Flower Pot big enough that when you set the ball in it that only about a quarter of the ball sets in the flower pot. You want to be able to set the ball in the pot and the ball does not fall out of the pot. This is important and so very helpful when working with a large ball You will need the following Couple of large Trash Bags Concrete Bonding agent.......Lowes, HD next to concrete dyes looks like Elmers glue. Bonding agent helps new mixture to stick to dried project. Use half water half bonding agent when you need extra hard hold or for really large projects Fiberglass drywall tape you can get this at lowes, home depo one roll last forever 1 sturdy plastic Flower Pot Do Not use Terra Cotta pot. I use a light mix works well 1 Part Portland Not concrete mix that you buy this has to be PORTLAND CEMENT 1 part peat moss 1 parts perlite 1 Part water This makes a lightweight but very strong project Vaseline Caution Do use gloves, Do use a mask when mixing as the dust is very fine and will get in your nose and mouth, use goggle over glasses trust me the dust will scratch your glasses 1 Make your hypertufa mix well and let it set 2 Place one opened trash bag in the flower pot so that the bottom of the bag is inside the pot let the rest fold over the sides. You will use the part of the bag that is hanging over to cover your Speer once done. 3 . Totally cover your ball with Vaseline be generous. Then rub what is on your hands into your hands really well. Your hands will thank you later 4 Locate the Air Valve on your ball, Place your ball in the flowerpot making sure that the air valve is at the bottom when ball is setting in the flower pot Getting started is the hardest part many people find it helpful to take a hand full of mixture and rub it all over the ball its helps the rest stick better Start applying your tuff to your ball. There are many different ways to start everyone has their own style. I usually start at the bottom and go all the way around the ball turning the flowerpot as needed and working my way up the ball. Trying covering your ball in equal amounts all the way around. The ball can get very heavy and will flip on you really quickly.. The bigger the ball the easier it will flip on you ******** It can be hard to get started DonÂt Give up Once your ball is totally covered and your feel itÂs held well then takes the part of the trash bag that is hanging over and brings it up over the project and cover. I then take the second trash bag open and cover the entire project again. Place in a safe place and let it set Now try really hard not to open the bags and look at your project for a week. Amount of time depends on weather After a week I then open the ball and depending on the size of my ball or what effects I want I will apply a second coat of mixture in a different color This is also where you pick up the project out of the flower pot and if the opening is larger then you want then you use the mixture with the bonding agent to fill in as much of this area as you want. Remember you will have to leave a large enough opening to deflate the ball and pull it out or not some people just cover the opening and leave the ball in. I always deflate the ball and pull it out. If you do not want an opening at this point you deflate the ball and pull out, take some very thin chicken wire and the tape, cover the opening and apply mixture on top and blend in with rest of hypertufa and you will have a hollow Speer. Depending on the size of your project closing the opening up you may want to take a two step approach. Patch in as much as possible leaving just enough room to deflate ball and pull it out let project dry for a couple of days in same fashion as above then deflate ball pull out then use chicken wire and tape cover remaining hole which should be no more then 3-4 inches across and cover with hypertufa Applying mixture really thick is not necessary I have many Speers that are no more then 1/2 in thick and they are very strong *******This part is important on the second coat or for closing openings instead of water in your mixture use half water and half concrete bonding agent. If project is really large also apply some of the fiberglass drywall tape to the Speer several strips from top of Speer to the bottom helps.. Do not apply a heavy second coat and DO NOT PRESS IT HARD OR YOU WILL CRACK FIRST COAT. The second coat is really just for special effects or to cover small areas you didnÂt apply enough of first time and is not necessary for Soccer ball, BB ball sized projects. . **** Remember the inside of your project will be very smooth you can always cut this Speer in half and use itÂs for future mold by simply lining it with a plastic bag. Once project has cured 2-3 weeks in a safe spot I then just unwrap them set them in the garden for several weeks and let nature take care of things 2 or 3 good rain storms and you can plant in them . If project is more than 1 inch thick some drill holes in the bottom will be needed for drainage If your mixture is to dry add a little bit of water and mix well continue to do this until you can squeeze a little water out of a handful If your mixture is to wet try laying your mixture on some newspaper for a few min and newspaper will absorb excess water or add more ingredites just remember to add equal parts of each . If your mixture continues to slide off your ball then it has to much water Happy Tuffing Ladies itÂs like being a little kid again and getting to play in the mud as long as you want. WARNING Tuffing is fun and will draw neighborhood kids by the dozen, so work in a secure place or be willing to answer lots of questions. This whole process is very confusing to children they just canÂt understand an adult playing in the mud like that and having a good time....See MoreCalled BR-111 about which floating glue to use - Opinions?
Comments (3)Hi Susan, its been 11 years. I believe you went ahead with using Titebond II. How well did your floor hold up for expansion and shrinkage? Did the glue stayed flexible allowing the movement or it started clicking over the time? Im planning on adding some titebond II or Roberts tongue and groove glue between the tongues and grooves of my last 3 rows to the wall (I'm unable to find Titebond Tongue and Groove glue locally in MA and its way expensive on Amazon). I have nailed down a 3/4" thick 2.25" hickory, but the last 3 rows are going to get face nailed with a finish nail gun, so planning to add some glue for some strength. I would like to know your feedback from first hand experience. Any other pro's can add their comments as well. Pro's, please don't suggest about manufacturer recommendations. Bruce doesn't say anything and my wood doesn't have any warranty, as I fell for a marketing gimmick and ended up with some crappy discount wood. Enough fretting already, so I will will leave it there....See MorePorcelain Tile for the Foyer Questions
Comments (24)Tile has several ratings. Glazed products perform according to the hardness of their glaze. This hardness is determined by the manufacturer and rated using a PEI scale (Porcelain Enamel Institute). This PEI rating will determine the proper usage of each product. PEI I Tiles suitable for interior wall application. PEI II Tiles suitable for residential bathrooms where softer footwear is worn. PEI III Tiles suited to general residential traffic, except kitchens, entrance halls, and other areas subjected to continuous heavy use. PEI IV Tiles suited for all residential and light to medium commercial areas. PEI V+ Tiles suitable for heavy traffic and wet areas where safety and maximum performance are a major concern such as exterior hallways, food service, salad bars, building entrances, around swimming pools or shopping centers. If you are going to have clients walking on the tile, I think the tile would have to be at least PEI IV. In addition, tile has a coefficient of friction for both wet and dry. The tile I have in my bathroom is porcelain with a PEI IV rating and coefficient of friction > .6. The tile has three benefits. It is not slippery, it does not show water spots, and, because the design has marble-like veining, it does a terrific job of hiding dirt....See Morehow to joint 2 butcher block?
Comments (13)If the butcher block has the end grain facing up, then it'll want to expand in both length and width. So washers and oversized holes would probably be good. Applying finish to all sides after the glue has dried etc. will help slow moisture uptake and movement. If you have access to a biscuit joiner, biscuits will help with alignment during glue up. (As an added plus, there's a mechanical connection, too.) Failing that, clamping blocks that bridge the gap (but don't touch the glue) can squeeze the two surfaces close. (I think that was a tip in a very recent fine woodworking.) Personally, I don't wipe off the glue squeezeout right away. I'll wait until it's about 8 hours old (Titebond II) and then knock off the congealed glue with a scraper. That's just preference... Make sure you don't have any finish on the edges you're gluing. That'll mess up the glue. And I'd try and get a screw or two in on an angle to keep the top together if the glue fails....See Morejerry_t
14 years agosusanlynn2012
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