Engineered wood, handles high humidity better then a solid would. Acclimation to the high humidity, can cause the tongue & grooves to be more problematic getting them to engage tight.

With humidity levels above 60%, dew points come into play and can be reached quickly, where water condenses on surfaces, that are cooler then the dew point.

Thanks, floorguy. Maybe the dewpoint is why our carpet feels sort of moist-ish sometimes, especially if we have the windows open at night.

I wish I knew whether the humidity was due to the current concrete's vapor output. Perhaps sealing it will help?

Another thing to keep in mind here is that wood and water do not mix.

The "best" environment for any wood floor tends to be around 65 degrees Fahrenheit with roughly 50% relative humidity.

This prevent issues such as cupping, gapping and warping.

What I would suggest is to obtain a dehumidifier for your home to keep the humidity below acceptable standards. Also, ensure to give your floor plenty of acclimation time before installing. I would suggest a week or more with the humidity you are mentioning.

The method of installation will also be important, regardless I would ensure to use a moisture barrier of some form (usually 6mil poly). If you glue this floor door, use a really good adhesive like Bostik's Best to put this down.

If you have any other questions feel free to get in touch.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ask the Flooring Expert Blog

I'd really like to avoid having to constantly dehumidify in our bedroom, since dehumidifiers (a) are loud; (b) throw off a ton of heat; and (c) are energy hogs. Still, I get what you're saying, Bentley.

Anyone know of a good negative-side concrete sealant that might keep out some of the moisture and thus help us manage the relative humidity?