Hi Linda, I don't buy from stubhub but my coworker does, as well as ebay. She usually does that for sporting events since we both get all the emails when the concerts go on sale. I'll ask her if they are preselling. What I have read in my research is that they do in deed presale. Your question did send me on a mission because I didn't have the answer. Van Halen has no website to speak of and Live Nation and Ticket Master only list VIP packages for both our venues. They annouced the dates just recently and under my date of 04/10 it says TBD. Ticket master will list the shows once they have a date that the tickets will be in sale. It appears that they are releasing some VIP packages right now that will ship in April BUT Stub Hub shows specfic seats for each venue. It does not state when you would get you tickets so I clicked through the buy process a bit to see if there was a warning, but nothing obvious. To compare I clicked on NY which I know is on sale, and the stubhub website site shows as bold as can be "Electronic Delivery Available Immediately". Based on this, I still think I am right and they are not on sale yet. If you set up an account with ticketmaster, I bet you can score $49 seats when they are released. I'll check with my friend on Tues and I will let you know when they go on sale in FL.

I'm hoping to get to an Apple store to ask questions; in the meantime, the website makes it look easy as pie. My question would be the same as yours, for example, if I go on ABC.com and want to watch the latest free full episode of Brothers and Sisters, can I make it appear on my tv, or would I have to buy the episode on ITunes for it to work ?

This is for a skin cancer check. I would hint to them that since you have been a patient there before, that if they can't schedule an appointment without a referral, that you will go elsewhere...hoping that might be a possibility. Have you had skin cancer before or a history of cancer? BF had it several years ago, and then quit his yearly check-ups after his DR. died. He called the office to get an appointment, and they told him it would be a couple months before they could get him in. Once he let them know he had been a patient there some time ago, and was a cancer survivor, they found him an appointment time within a weeks time. If you call your DR's office, might they write you up a referral without the unnecessary Dr visit? Is that dermatologist a preferred provider or in your insurance network? If so, I'd sure be reporting the situation to my Ins so maybe they could get the problem taken care of, or drop them and find other providers. Sue

>For me however, given the choice in cabinetry, I'd go solid, so now I will tell you why. I like the feel of the heavier doors. A solid panel is also easier to repair if it gets damaged. I've seen some veneer panels completely blow out when hit hard enough. Plywood and veneer aren't the same thing, and both come in many thicknesses. I have no idea what you mean by "blow out", but properly glued veneer (or properly made plywood) will never delaminate. OTOH, only a fool would make guarantees about solid wood and warping and splitting on larger panels. Many companies, for that reason, will either not make the large doors without extra stiles or will not guarantee them. If you have a raised panel fridge door with just two panels, for instance, all the luck to you, but there's a reason that raised panel passageway doors are made with SMALL panels. >I've had several clients complain about the rattly sound when closing a door with a thin center panel (especially if the doors are large...tall 42" uppers and pantry doors are the worst). You don't think about that until you're using it everyday. You mean that the whole DOOR vibrates? Or that the panel vibrates in the door? With the second, it's more likely that solid panels will develop that problem over time, since they move more with the seasons. You can reverse-cove-shape a plywood panel, too, though the results wouldn't be as pretty on the backside, but I'd take that before having a *big* solid wood center panel. The LAST place you want big panels is with solid wood. (Unless, of course, you can magically keep the moisture and temperature exactly steady year-round--like you'd have to to keep paint from splitting where stiles join, as Woodmode mentioned.) It will warp very rapidly. You're courting disaster if you insist on it. If you have to have solid wood on big doors--if, for instance, you have the actual panel with a cove facing out--then you should keep the size of each panel to a reasonable dimension considering the dimensional stability of your chosen wood. That means raising the number of panels per door. >And finally, veneers can STAIN differently and AGE differently than solid wood. I've seen kitchens where the center veneer panel is slightly lighter in color that the solid wood frames. Now you're making no sense. A horizontal stile will look a different color from a vertical stile because of the direction of the wood grain. This is true with the vast majority of stain colors. Natural variation in the wood mean that panels and stiles will also look slightly different colors to a very careful eye. The BEST way to get panels to look the same, if you're not doing an almost opaque stain, is with veneers. (True veneers, not plywood.) The BEST way is to book match or slip match veneers. Without that, the best you can do is to do a "pleasing match" of solid woods--that is, select them to make sure they are all the same color. If some moron didn't do so, blaming the veneering process (or the fact that they used plywood) shows an astonishing lack of comprehension of what veneer/plywood is. If you like solid wood panels because you think they're more authentic, sure, whatever, I'll give it to you. If you like the idea of being able to put an enormous gouge in a piece of furniture and the color underneath being able to be stained to the same color, I'll agree but I'll think you're crazy since any sensible person would fill it, sand it, stain it, and make it disappear. But if you're pretending that, in performance, solid wood is superior for a flat panel application or if you're pretending that the most exquisite furniture made today isn't enormously dominated by rare and beautiful veneers...you're selling your clients a load of nonsense. The very best casework is made with a mixture of plywood, veneers, inlays, and solid wood--typically, in that order. The pieces that are worth more than my car ever was rarely have more than trace amounts of solid wood. Pretending that solid wood=high quality is dangerously deceptive. The stile-and-panel style door was originally developed because slabs of solid wood warp so dramatically. (Yes, solid-wood panels work--as long as you keep the doors within reasonable sizes ***for the material.*** Many people don't want that, though....) Historically...yes, Shakers wanted simpler designs. They couldn't change the existence of stiles-plus-panels because plywood technology didn't exist yet. The cove actually has a function in solid-panel doors, so they kept it and reversed it to make it seem less decorative. If Shaker villages were thriving today, they'd probably all have slab-style doors! :-) (Which aren't just slabs of playwood, BTW, but are built up--with plywood and solid wood, both--and usually have...yes, veneers, if they are any size at all. Those amazing zebrawood modernist design? All veneers!)