Here are two pictures to illustrate what we did. I'm not suggesting that this is the only -- or even best -- approach. It's just what worked for us. To make room for the cooktop and downdraft vent in the 24" deep cabinet, the contractor removed the cabinet back and then built a 2x4-width wall behind the cooktop cabinet and the 18" cabinets on either side of it. Removing the back provided the extra needed room. He also had to shave the sides of the cabinet just a bit to fit the cooktop in, since the cabinet itself was 36". The picture below shows the cabinet with the narrow back wall. We then installed a laminate countertop over the cabinets. Adding the narrow wall behind meant that we had a 30" deep counter in that area (24" deep cabinet + 3.5" wall + counter overhang). Those extra inches were nice to have for landing space on either side of the cooktop. From GardenWeb Photos Fast forward 14 years to this fall's kitchen update. I wanted to maximize space and decided to reclaim those 3.5" (thereby giving us almost 36" between island and cooktop peninsula instead of the 32" we had). So, after removing the countertop, we removed the wall behind the cabinets and pushed the cabinets back those extra inches. Then we nailed a section of 3/4" maple-faced plywood to the back of the cabinets, added tile in front of the cabinets, reinstalled a countertop (granite this time) and the induction cooktop (also 36") and the new pop-up vent. You can see the cabinets with the plywood behind them in this picture. From GardenWeb Photos Since you are putting yours in an island, if you will have other cabinets behind the cooktop cabinet, the back of one of them might provide the stability for the cooktop cabinet and you might not need something like either our initial wall or current 3/4" plywood backing. Hope this all makes sense. Please ask questions and if you want more pix, let me know.

1. Should I have the floor go under the DW and range, or only up to these areas, then use something else of the same height as the floor (11mm I think) to bring the appliances to the right height? One floor rep said you have to bring the floor under the DW so that any leak stays ON TOP of the floor, but another said that any leak would likely get underneath the floor anyway, so it was easier to just run the floor along the front and use something else under the DW. I raise the front legs to the dishwasher, and go just under them enough so the legs will sit on the flooring when I screw them back down. The stove/range can be either. I like to remove the range, but if they are huge, I will go under the front legs. 2. This floor will go on a cement slab, and there is an exterior door in the room. How do I transition from the laminate to the door? Use the same squarenose molding they suggested for your carpet edges. 3. Can I use a T molding at the transitions from laminate to carpet? The Alloc brochure indicates using a square nose at the carpet, but the tack strip for the carpet had to get pulled up in the remodel, so I'd like something to secure and hide that carpet edge. NO, T molding will snap/break/come loose on the soft carpet. You need a square nose, as recommended. The carpet edge is secured with tackstrip and tucked to the squarenose molding. Pull the carpet and pad back. Install your square nose molding. Nail or urethane glue, the tackstrip, leaveing a gap between the squarenose molding, about the same size as the carpet is thick, a little tighter is better. Trim the pad back behind the tackstrip, and then stretch the carpet up on the tackstrips. Hopefully you have enough stretch to trim a little carpet for a clean edge to tuck into the gully(leave long enough to tuck) 4. Since I'm on cement, how do I secure T moldings, or door moldings? Is a construction adhesive OK? You can drill and peg dowl the concrete and then screw down that cheesy plastic channel. I mount the transition in the channel and then cut it to the length I need. Then I use good urethane adhesive, and glur the track down and weight it good. Do not get carried away with the adhesive, as you don't want it to ooze out and glue the laminate in, locking it

I second the suggestion for the waterhog mats. I'll post where we purchase them if I can find the link - you can get custom sizes, colors, styles, etc. LL BEAN sells them too but they are very pricey IMO. We use them around our dogs water bowls too since they are sloppy drinkers. In addition to our entry way, we also use them in the back of our SUV's in the cargo area since we travel with our Boxers. Keeps the truck nice and clean and absorbs liquids. After my dog had surgery he peed in the truck on the drive home from the vets office (post-anesthesia, if I remember correctly) and I was thankful for that waterhog mat. Not a drop of urine on my upholstery; the waterhog captured all of it, and it was easy enough to clean -- I sprayed it down with a hose and some cleaning solution, left it out to dry and no residual smell whatsoever. They're awesome mats.

Make sure that any reclaimed wood has been properly treated for insects or you'' end up with an infestation in your home. No plastic picture of wood floors over particle board in a kitchen. Either choose real wood, or tile.