Thanks! After I wrote this message, I was worried about the Reno T because it has to be in a sense, glued in. I read that you can't get any glue on the floating floor, because then it can't expand. Can we try to just try to concentrate the stuff on the bottom and the tile. I know some will get on the wood, but we could try to minimize the amount? What size do you think would be best? I'd love to see how you did the stone! Our marble is only the width of tile, would that be enough to put the ends of the wood under? There is cement board under the marble. Also, what kind of molding do we use at the sliding glass doors? Have you used these moldings before? Which holds up best? One other question (sorry!). We are having the tile installed professionally and we are doing the wood. We were planning to have the tile installed first, and then add the wood (the pathway is about 3 1/2 wide). Is that a good plan? Thanks so much for helping with our "puzzle". We're excited about the project. Kristen

Do you build up the floor? Or build up the transition piece to touch the floor? Sorry, done lots of home DIY jobs but this is a first for me on wood flooring. Are there transition pieces available with longer bottoms on the "T"?

You can either depress the bathroom subfloor slightly as you mention or build up the vinyl floor areas with plywood or something. You could also float out at the doorways but ideally you should keep the slope at less than 1/8" in 10'.

June, it's not verboten. There are other varibles. my entire state (that I've seen) uses wood for the curbs. If you're in a state that has a high water table, then you prob don't want to use your wood on a slab since it's going to absorb a lot of moisture. But for areas like mine, as long as you isolate the untreated wood from a cement slab to prevent moisture migration, and it's waterproofed, it's fine. (treated lumber will warp and twist.) Head over johnbridge. plenty of the moderators use the 2x's. mine is encased in tar and mortar, and there's a barrier under it and the seasoned slab. it's not going to expand and contract and it's not going to absorb moisture. bricks are porous too. both of them require the waterproofing membrane and barrier to work properly. but hey, foam boards or mortar bricks are fine ( more than one way to skin a cat. and build a curb) leslie, you can't just add a curb after it's already tiled. what's wrong w/the way it is? do something different w/the transition if you have to, but leave it as is.