I use liquid hide glue (available in a bottle -- be sure to get a fresh one from the mfg. date). I buy syringes at my pharmacy and inject the glue underneath the bubbles. Smear a little vaseline over the spot, get some waxed paper, and clamp down a wooden caul over the spot overnight. It should suck your veneer back down and hold it for good. Ironing with a damp cloth is likely to damage the finish. Even though it might be repairable, it's not necessary.

Update: After doing more research on spar varnish and finding the post I will refer to below, I went to my local paint store and had a long talk with the owner about my project. I decided to go with minwax semigloss clear polyurethane and I was advised to use a lambswool device to apply the poly. Then I came home and read your recent posts, Richard - and yes, product I was talking of (the spar varnish) is a quality product but after more reading I just didn't feel right about using it on this table. I also found this thread on "woodjocks" website and found the discussion leading me towards poly even more. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/2565 So, I have a applied one coat of poly with the wool device. I am not sure how I feel about this wool idea - it seems to leave lint behind? I am thinking of switching to a brush, or to disposable foam brushes for the next 3 coats. Any advice on how to proceed from here onto my last coats of poly (even just some encouragement) is appreciated. I'm not sure how I like the semigloss finish - its nice, but I hope it will be waterproof and repellant to dinner sauces, wine, etc. I am also feeling concerned about my work environment. I am working in a free standing garage and the temps are supposed to dip down into 40s this week at night. Will that be a problem in between dry coats of poly? Here is a link that might be useful: thread on spar varnish I found

If you attempt to sell it yourself, you're going to have to post much better pictures of the table and chairs in order to attract some interest. The inlay of your table top, appears to be burled walnut If it has a manufacturer's label, that might help. Henredon & Century both had dining room sets similar in style at about the same time. Since the style is not in demand presently, you might be fortunate to get $500 for the complete set. More if you live in a big city with a diverse population. Sometimes it's better to take the write off and donate the set.

Having glass on wood does not allow the wood to breathe and can ruin it. I would always prefer the warmth that wood gives to a dining room, and being just a little bit careful does not seem like too high a price to pay. It really depends on what kind of table you'll feel comfortable with overall and will enjoy living with.