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Porcelain tile over concrete slab

15 years ago

Hi Everyone,

I hope there is a "pro" out there who can help me! My husband and I are not really do-it-yourselfer's mainly due to time constraints. However, we have a 15'x15' screened in porch with a concrete slab that we want to tile ourselves. I am thinking it shouldn't be to hard, but maybe I am mistaken. My main concern is the tile cracking. I have read about backerboard, thinset, Ditra, etc. But what I can't find on the web are step by step instructions on the proper way to do this. Is there anyone who has the time to lay it out for me in terms of procedure and products? Or should I go to a Home Depot and seek advice?

We are in Massachusetts and it really is a summer porch that we use from May - Sept. However, we did have the walls and ceilings insulated in case we ever wanted to turn it into a regular room. I tell you this, because I am wondering if we would be short sighted not to consider some type of radiant floor heating system.

I'd really appreciate any advice, or instructions!

Thanks,

Ann

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Comment (1)

oruboris
15 years ago
Not a tile pro, just an interested amature that's never done any outdoor tile setting, but I don't *think* you need to do anything but clean the surface well. Cement board is used to provide a surface for the thinset to adhere to, but it should stick to the cement just fine. UNLESS its been sealed or painted, then you may need to mechanically remove some of the surface.

Ditra is wonderful: it replaces the thinset in horizontal applications, and helps keep cracks in your slab from becoming cracks in the tile. But if the slab is stable and crackfree, I don't think it would do anything but add about $1.50/ft to your materials cost.

You DO need to use a tile approved for outdoor use-- tiles that aren't won't survive the thaw/freeze cycle.

Personally, wouldn't add the heat system at this time unless you have a pretty clear intention of finishing the space later. I'm not sure an electric system can be used outdoors, and a hydronic system for a single room is rarely done due to the complexity and cost of other equipment, like the boiler, etc.

If the rest of your home already has radiant hydronic and the slab is in a spot where it would be simple to tie the deck system into the whole house, it would probably be worthwhile. Personally, I'd save the money now, spend it later on a new floor if needed.

BUT I know of people at Big Sky and other ski areas that have hydronic radiant heat under their decks, sidewalks and driveways. They melt the snow as it falls rather than paying someone to shovel it [they are in the income bracket that doesn't shovel its own walks]. Seems pretty environmentally irresponsible to me...
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I wonder if our GC's proposal is overkill. We've just installed new PEX radiant heat panels over existing slab on grade, and now are considering having tile rather than 5/8" engineered wood above the radiant panels (Rehau Raupanel, 8" OC). The Raupanel installation specs diagram for tile installation shows the following layers: - ceramic tile (1/4" typical) - cement or mortar compound w/ mesh or rubber membrane (1/4" typical) [e.g. Schulter Ditra?] - Raupanel + PEX + furring strips - vapor barrier - concrete slab Our GC claims we need to: -tear out the Raupanel and furring strips. -have loops of Pex with a concrete overpour, -then plywood base, a 1/2" backerboard, - and finally the tile in thinset (I think). What's going on? I think the GC said this is for sufficient isolation from expansion, and the tear-out needed to keep the assembly from being almost 1" higher than the adjacent room (5/8" Owens Plankfloor above Raupanel). But some of the GC's solutions have been un-nece$$arily labor-inten$ive, so I've become alert to padded proposals. BTW, His partial quote, for the 50 sq ft room is: "Demo the existing wood furring strips and float the floor and install the owner provided tile. Total cost 2,100.00 (Note the base will be wood provided in an alternate price)" Does that make sense? What should I do next? ------ PS. Should we even be doing tile, vs. e.g., linoleum, if we may have a litter-box and/or pet food bowls in the room? I started imagining urine odor in grout....
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Good input guys. Thank you very much! I've had a couple tile guys come out to provide quotes, just one moments ago. His thinking was to mud or mortar the whole thing, including the kitchen, so no Hardibacker or Ditra, which I was leaning toward... I guess the benefit there would be the ability to make the elevation the same in both the entry way and kitchen... It would 1/2 inch though, on top of the underlayment, then thinset, then tile. That becomes higher than anticipated, and possibly problematic with respect to a transition to carpet in the living room and the DW fitting under the counter. The other tile guy would jackhammer the mortar bed, remove it and use wood to build it up. He'd use 1/4 Hardibacker, however nail those down with roofing nails. He does put some thinset on the bottom of the Hardibacker though. Not so keen on roofing nails on the Hardibacker, but maybe with the thinset under, it would be fine....
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