Intermittant electronics: If it isn't a battery problem, you can try the following technique which might isolate the problem down to the component level but even if this troubleshooting idea works, you may not be able to buy the individual component as a stand-alone part. Oh...Make sure you double check all physical and optical switches first before going any further to make sure they are working properly which may kill the system. These switches can also be intermittant. I always like to check the simple stuff first like a failing electric eye or the main power to the opener. If it comes down to temperature you can sometimes isolate intermittant electronic problems by using a small hairdryer and some freeze mist which is available at an electronics supply house. There are such things as tiny heat guns which can heat up one integrated circuit but if a chip is found to be bad, chances are you cannot buy the individual part and secondly great care must be taken not to damage the "runs" on the circuit board when removing the component, third, you must be grounded to prevent accidental static discharge which can permanently destroy a chip or an entire circuit board. To remove a chip successfully you need a solder sucker, copper wick, a SMALL wattage soldering iron and you need to be grounded using a static dischrge strap around your wrist or constantly touch a pipe to ensure you are bled off. If it is a surface mounted chip...forget it. You also may want to use a full size hair dryer to heat the motor assembly to try to isolate it from the electronics themselves. In my 30 years of working with intermittant electronic failures, I have found alternating between heating and cooling a suspected component to be very helpful at times. Many times I found leaky capacitors and hairline breaks in circuit boards by using this method. I also found bad ICs. "Over freezing" a component is not as harmful as "cooking" a component. You need to develop a "touch" to prevent overheating. You can see by my description that it takes some skill to do this type of work. Nowdays entire circuit boards are usually swapped out as labor is just too expensive. Repairman want to get out of your house in no more than 30 minutes to get to the next job. If it were me, I would just isolate the component if possible and replace a $2.00 capacitor if possible. Swapping out an entire board by a qualified technician is the easiest method isolate the problem. Buying a board for troubleshooting purposes usually is a bad idea because you cannot return the board if you are wrong. The main thing is check the SIMPLE things first. NOTE: I am not a super expert in garage door openers but I DID stay at a Holiday Inn.

Rhonda anytime you try to close the door and the lights flash 10 times and the door reverses to the open position you have a problem with the sensors in the doorway or the wiring to them. Each sensor has a small light that must be on to work. If neither of your sensors has the light on you either have a wiring problem or bad sensors. If the light on one is on and the other is off you should be able to tweak them a bit so that they are pointed directly at one another and both lights should come on.

If your remotes worked fine on the display model you have a bad logic board.

Your opener is very old and it sounds like the receiver is the problem and is no longer available. A new opener is your best bet.