Converting carpeted stairs to hardwood...

14 years ago

We are having our carpeted stairs and upper landing converted to hardwood. The installer said he will just knock off the old nosings and place with new 1" hardwood steps w/ nosings on top of each old step. As I think about it, that means that the first step of the stairs (from the bottom) will be a 1" higher. I'm not sure yet how the last step (at the top of the stairs) will be since the landing at the top of the stair will be 3/4" hardwood.

Does this make sense? Will this be a tripping point? Is this normal?

Thanks.... Gary

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Comments (8)

glennsfc
14 years ago
Hmmmm...normal...hard to say. I think 'acceptable' would be a better word. If this was new construction, then the phrase would be "Is this built to code?"

Placing 1" hardwood steps over each old step will not change the run and rise, but unless you are installing new flooring where the first step begins, then...yes...that will be the higher step, at least higher than it was before. However, measure from that floor to the top of the first step, and from the first step to the top of the next one and on up. Is there any difference between the first measurement and the others? That will help tell you what the difference will be for that first step...you will know how much higher it is.

Do the same for the next to last step and the step before the landing. Take into account the 3/4" hardwood on the landing level...if the difference is 1/4" or less, you should have no problem there; most people won't trip on a step 1/4" higher than the others.

As for the first higher step (if that is the case)...most people can negotiate a higher step, if that happens to be the only one higher in the run.
goddi
Original Author
14 years ago
The lower landing is already hardwood flooring. So by installing the first hardwood step on top of the existing step, this will add 1" to the height of the first step. The rest of the steps will all have the same rise. However, I am not sure of what will happen to the last step to the upper landing. How is this normally handled when the steps are 1" thick and the hardwood flooring that will be installed is 3/4"? I am under the impression that a step with the same nosing will be the outer edging of the upper landing. Different thicknesses....
Gary
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floorguy
14 years ago
OK, look at it this way...

They had carpet and padding on top of the rough framing.
Â½" of cushion + Â½" of carpet = 1" So what have you left out of the equation?
jerry_t
14 years ago
On my jobs the existing treads come out and new solid treads go in.
goddi
Original Author
14 years ago
jerry_t... What is the theory for not remove the existing treads? What are the negatives? I'd also like to know why you remove the existing treads. I like your method but I'd am not sure why. But then I think adding new treads on to existing ones will make a very strong step. What am I missing...???
Thanks...Gary
floorguy
14 years ago
Once the carpet is off, a tape measure works great!!!

With that tool you will see exactly which way to go and stay in code for the rise of each step.

Usually steps rough framed for carpet have the allowance for the carpet and cushion thickness.

I staircase I did a couple of years ago, I have no idea how it passed code. It was a brand new home just completed, and they wanted the cheap base grade carpet that came with the purchase(has to have some type of finished flooring to get it financed) gone and replaced with wood.
I had to used different thicknesses of plywood on each step to build it up, so each step was within an 1/8 of each other in height difference.
jerry_t
14 years ago
goddi, it's more a less a habit I've fallen into but there are valid reasons for starting fresh. Thinking back the majority of of my work had 3,4,5, open ended treads at the bottom. Not many jobs I get locally are totally boxed in with new hardwood going in on "both" floors to keep the rise/run the same.
glennsfc
14 years ago
Floorguy,

And you actually did that?

I looked at one awhile back and refused to even consider the work. It could have been done the way you describe, but I recommended that the customer contact a stair builder.

The problem with the stair was a 'mud job' ceramic installation that made the top step at least 1 1/2" out of the normal rise for that staircase. There were two few steps to make up the difference.

My hat goes off to you for your ingenuity!