Um, no. There's no lost security deposit here for numerous reasons, but most importantly because there's nothing to "fess up to", I didn't damage anything. I only cleaned the area that the sun hits, and it looks exactly the same as the rest of the floor that I didn't touch with the steam mop. It's just not shiny when the sun hits it and I'd like it to be. There is ZERO wrong with the floor and in regular light (without direct sunlight) it looks nice and has a faint shine. I would like it to be shiny in the sun the way it was when the cleaning company left. Not to mention, if cleaning the new floor was such a specific issue I should be given instructions from my building manager when the floor was laid down. I wasn't given any info at all on its care and maintenance so I couldn't be blamed even if I did damage it with the steam mop. I have a unique case because of the sun. Without the sun the floors look fine. I happen to have an extremely bright, well lit living room with north, south and west facing windows / balcony doors that allow an enormous amount of direct sun, which acts like a spotlight showing up every smudge or speck of dust. To combat that I'd like it to be shiny. So thanks, but not very helpful. I don't need to know what I shouldn't do, I posted because I'd like suggestions on what to do, ie what will make / keep a wood laminate floor in an extremely bright room looking polished.

No thank you on the spam, Rog.

A floating floor is a floor that is not anchored to the subfloor (gravity holds it in place). A floating floor must have an expansion gap around the whole room. That means there will be a nice, big fat gap at each and every wall. The ideal expansion gap is the same thickness as the laminate. The laminate you show is 10mm thick. That means you must have 10mm gap at every single wall and a gap of 10mm on EITHER side of the door jam. Because this is a rental AND the existing floor is VERY WELL installed (baseboards appear to have been done properly) I do NOT suggest you install quarter round or shoe moulding. That means you will LEAVE the gap all the way around. This gap will fill up with crud. And then to add insult to injury you MUST use an underlayment product. Your product of choice has an integrated underpad which is most CERTAINLY plastic stuff. Even if it didn't have it, you would need an underpad to protect the existing floor. The underpad MUST NOT be plastic or vinyl or any product that will trap moisture. That means you need to work with 3mm cork underlay or Quietwalk fiber based product. Either of these products will add $$ cost to your project. But this point is moot because you have a laminate with plastic underlay = absolutely not allowed over an existing wood based floor. Ever. But why no 'plastic'? Because it will cause the moisture underneath the existing floor to catch on the bottom of the plastic and DRIP DOWN onto the existing floor. And you will be left with a fantastically moldy mess that you will be required to pay for. And considering the fact the existing floor is THROUGHOUT the house, you might be required to remove/replace the ENTIRE THING. Because a tenant must bring the home back to the ORIGINAL state. And that state includes an entire house covered in the SAME floor. Right. On to the transition strips that you will WANT to use at the doors...but will not be ALLOWED to use. Again a reducer (what the transition strip is called when moving from a 1/2" step down to 0" inch floor (like concrete or the existing flooring level). Why can't you use it? Because the transition must be ANCHORED. That is to say you would have to affix the transition to the EXISTING floor. IN doing so you risk (100% risk) of damaging the existing floor. That brings us back to leaving the house in the way you found it. And back to the issue of a floating floor over another floating floor - this is bad science. An unstable floor on top of an unstable floor. It would be like building with marbles. The warranty on BOTH floors is void (landlords love to hear these things...you might own them another floor if they find out about another floor sitting on top). In short: Don't do it. You will have one heck of an expensive 'project' on your hands when you move out. A white area rug would do MUCH better and would be MUCH cheaper.

So, I just talked to the remediation contractor who quoted me $1200. He told me he's licensed and bonded etc and has been doing this work for 30 years. He had been out and looked at my floor a few days ago and says that on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being worst case scenario, mine is about a quarter (1/4). I suppose he could be wrong, but I feel better now. Going to go ahead tomorrow or Monday and pull up all the warped section, then probably have him come by to do a check and maybe test before his flooring guy comes to give me an estimate on installation. I'm taking into consideration too that the plumber who has a good reputation with several people down the street is the one who referred me to him.