hardwood flooring for new construction help please!!!
rschurg
12 years ago
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Comments (10)
floor_me
12 years agopeytonroad
12 years agoRelated Discussions
engineered hardwood floor over old hardwood floor
Comments (14)You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood....See Morehardwood floors cupping in new construction
Comments (2)Pics? There is a lot of moisture in new construction, and what you are describing is beyond "normal" high moisture levels even for that. Engineered would have weathered the moisture conditions much better and is the product of choice for the MidSouth climate conditions. It's possible that the wood could lay down and be flat, but it won't occur overnight. It will take a couple of months of drying out with the AC on and dehumidifiers running to make that happen. One of the first things I'd want to check is the subflooring and floor insulation's appearance from the crawlspace. That will tell you a whole lot right there. With the heat and humidity and the extra water you're dealing with, I wouldn't be surprised to see that compromised with mold. If that's the case, all bets are off. I'd call in a restoration contractor who was used to dealing with flood remediation to get an opinion on the damage caused by your builder's negligence in controlling the site's water flow....See MoreOrientation of new hardwood floors over old hardwood floors
Comments (3)Laying the new floor in the same direction as the old floor is not the normal way to go about this. In the building industry, it is more common to see layers that are staggered or "bricked". In other words if layer #1 is laid in a North-South direction, then layer #2 (the top layer) is laid perpendicular to it in an East-West presentation. If you want to run the new flooring in the same direction as the old, you will want to use some underlayment (plywood) over top of the old floor so that you can maintain the "staggered" or "bricked" layering system. That is one way to maintain the North-South presentation. Please work with hardwood flooring professionals who have some experience renovating these old gems. They will have seen what worked....and what didn't. Their experience will be invaluable on a project like yours....See Morenew construction house want 7 in engineered hardwood white oak -
Comments (10)A wide plank (anything 5" or wider is considered "wide plank) has plenty of requirements. If you are looking at a nail down floor, you will need to work with glue assist. This drives the cost of installation up. I'm a little confused about the $15/sf installed quote. Is that for a 7" wide SITE FINISHED engineered hardwood? Or is that for a factory finished plank? If it is the cost for the SITE FINISHED than I'm concerned with such a low price. Ya. I said low. These beautiful, wide plank site finished engineered hardwood floors should have a purchase price around $15. Cost of install/finishing would then be added to that price. They are MAGNIFICENT. They are the best of the best (especially the US or Canada Made products). Please explain the TYPE of install (nail down, floating, etc) your type of SUBFLOOR and whether or not your quote was for factory finished or site finished. Oh. And your location would also help. What is cheap for one area could be top of the market in another region....See More
live_wire_oak
12 years agofloor_me
12 years agoglennsfc
12 years agoflooringbro
12 years agowoodfloorpro
12 years agouniquewoodfloors
12 years agobarnette84
12 years ago
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