We installed the Regency Hampton HI 300 insert in our previous house and we were really happy with the performance and appearance of the insert. We ordered the brown enamel finish. Here is a link that might be useful: Hampton insert

Make sure you neutralize the pressure in the room its in by opening a window, if you dont have a pressure problem in the house you may need to extend the chimney. You are on the very cusp of the manufactures minimum rating and you have that longer then average offset..I think thats most of the problem. You extend the chimney buy using a anchor plate and a transition plate. The transition plate would be optional if you have a good way to attach the anchor plate to the current liner. Normally it would be installed like this: Transition plate covers the chimney and the flange for connectiong the liner points down the chimney The anchor plate bolts to the top of the transition plate and provides a connection for the class A chimney,. If it wouldnt look too rediculious i would add 4 more feet. If you have a negative pressure problem in the home, (if cracking the window improved things dramaticly) then you have a complete other set of problems to deal with. go to www.duravent.com and look up the three parts. You will need the transition plate, the anchor plate, and what ever length of pipe you need. This is a whole nother can of worms, but the stove might perform worse in the basement. There are absoluty no guarentees that your basement will provide a better installation then what you currently have. To make a long story short, your house is one large chimney, heat rises in the attic positivly pressurizing the attic, the main level of the home is is a pass through point, and is typically neutral, and the basement is the supply, wich is under pressure because there isnt much air that can get in the basement, making it negative for pressure. That means the new chimney that is way up in the air has a pretty postive pressure at the top, and the stove at the bottem is in a negative room, and becomes the appliance that tries to neutralize the basement. The stove could be thought of as the same effect of opening a window to neautrlize a room. You can imagine the potential draft problems...

Thanks for the information! I know what it's like to have a regular fireplace, and I have to admit that I wasn't crazy about going without a wood stove because the last house I lived in had a fireplace and it had a ventilation system where you'd just flip the switch and the fan would come on. It did a great job with pulling all the smoke and soot up, but the heat went with it as well. I've got someone coming to inspect the chimney and clean it out, and I've already found a replacement stove that I'm hoping to have put in within the next few weeks. This particular situation just threw me for a loop because I've never had a fireplace or wood stove in a basement before. If everything works as planned, I'll keep my fingers crossed for lower electric bills this winter!

thats what i did (or had done) cap the gas line as low to the floor as possible, shut it off, and insert wood.